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handbrake lever removal c4 a6 quattro. HELP!

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  • handbrake lever removal c4 a6 quattro. HELP!

    Hi guys... Im trying to replace a broken handbrake lever on an Audi A6 c4 quattro avant tdi AEL.

    only problem Im having is, how do i get at the little 10mm nut on the end of the metal bar?

    It disappears into the transmission tunnel. Any advice on un doing it?

    Cheers.
    C4 A6 AEL avant quattro: daily

    TYPE-85 Coupe Quattro: clicky
    2.5L GTi engineering RE2500 190hp.180lb
    Schrick 272 cam
    C A C 2.5" T304 Exhaust
    ITG filter

  • #2
    C4 Emergency / Parking Brake PNs and info

    Originally posted by MGaz View Post
    Hi guys... Im trying to replace a broken handbrake lever on an Audi A6 c4 quattro avant tdi AEL. only problem Im having is, how do i get at the little 10mm nut on the end of the metal bar? It disappears into the transmission tunnel. Any advice on un doing it? Cheers.
    This C4 eBrake post that I did *might* have the clues you seek:

    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24448.phtml

    RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
    94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah.. Its the 'threaded rod' that Im trying to get to the nut, on the end of it. to remove it.
      Im on my phone atm and that link isn't loading for me for some reason :-/
      C4 A6 AEL avant quattro: daily

      TYPE-85 Coupe Quattro: clicky
      2.5L GTi engineering RE2500 190hp.180lb
      Schrick 272 cam
      C A C 2.5" T304 Exhaust
      ITG filter

      Comment


      • #4
        A box key in a socket on an extension makes the nut at the handbrake yoke nice and easy.
        02 A3 1.9tdi 130 sport quattro

        Comment


        • #5
          i get what you are saying, a deep socket isnt deep enough if the nuts are a long way up the thread.
          Im scrapping a S4 at the mo and got the prop and tin shields removed and even then it is a little restricted. My advice is clean the thread up best you can, loosen the first one and hope you undo it by hand.
          Maybe you can sacrifice a 10mm socket and long extension! instead of putting the extension into the socket, weld it to the outside, then the extra thread will pass through the socket

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by bunyoch View Post
            A box key in a socket on an extension makes the nut at the handbrake yoke nice and easy.




            A bit of insulating tape around the box key-socket stops it falling out. Long extension and you pop it in over the heat shields, the ratchet will be about the rear diff.
            Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon

            Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
            Sold ABY-stock

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bunyoch View Post
              A box key in a socket on an extension makes the nut at the handbrake yoke nice and easy.
              so that's what a box key is

              Not picking a fight but how would you lock the 2 nuts together when you do it back up? refit with a nylock nut and not worry about locking the 2 nuts?

              Im asking as i will be adjusting the handbrake on my S6 soon.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by shaun5 View Post
                so that's what a box key is

                Not picking a fight but how would you lock the 2 nuts together when you do it back up? refit with a nylock nut and not worry about locking the 2 nuts?

                Im asking as i will be adjusting the handbrake on my S6 soon.
                All the ones I have come across have had a single nylock nut, so no problems. (as per the diagram above, "hex nut self locking".)

                If it was a double nutted one I would just remove one, then the other and fit a nylock.

                Box keys (seem to be an old school tool, but they are dirt cheap and handy for a couple of situations like this)

                Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon

                Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
                Sold ABY-stock

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by MGaz View Post
                  Yeah.. Its the 'threaded rod' that Im trying to get to the nut, on the end of it. to remove it. Im on my phone atm and that link isn't loading for me for some reason :-/
                  This one, only one nut that I can see:

                  RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                  94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks everyone for your advice so far.

                    Looking at the picture above.. Will it be easy to feed the New/replacement threaded rod in to the hole and re attach the nut?

                    Or will it hang down and be hard to re attach after being removed?
                    C4 A6 AEL avant quattro: daily

                    TYPE-85 Coupe Quattro: clicky
                    2.5L GTi engineering RE2500 190hp.180lb
                    Schrick 272 cam
                    C A C 2.5" T304 Exhaust
                    ITG filter

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MGaz View Post
                      Thanks everyone for your advice so far. Looking at the picture above.. Will it be easy to feed the New/replacement threaded rod in to the hole and re attach the nut? Or will it hang down and be hard to re attach after being removed?
                      You might want a helper, i.e. somebody up top in the passenger compartment feeding the rod at the end of the eBrake handle through the hole/grommet to the underbody while you are positioned under the car to guide the rod to its new home.

                      RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                      94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

                      Comment

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