Chassis paint/ rust proofing recommends

[adam g]

Can anyone recommend a good paint on protection against corrosion. I want something thats going to last. I've found hamerite last months at most and I've never got on with applying wax oil.

I'm not taking it back to bare metal so want something I can apply once I have taken the loose bits off. I've heard there are some 2 pack paints for this usage on the market but don't know what they are called.

[John.]

I've heard of some folk using Industrial Floor Paint?......sets very hard like an enamel.
Could be worth a try.

[Error404]

I used POR15 over rust, followed by 3M 08800, followed by Dinitrol 4941 as recommended by GT500 on the forum (he is a pro).
The 3M 08800 is 2k, very similar to the OE underseal - very good stuff

[irishs2]

POR15 is good but only good if the prep work is good. You have to treat the metal with prep ready. And give it about 3 coats or the POR15 afterwards.
POR15 can be applied over rust but the finish obviously would be quite poor, and you will still need multiple costs to prevent rust coming out through the POR15.

Edit:

Yep I followed Errors lead on the underneath of my avant. POR15 + 3M 08800.

[kibby]

I used epoxy mastic 121 strong adhesive paint

[GazzaG60]

what if you have no rust? my b3 needs undersealing before hitting the road really.

[bluequattro]

I read in a classic mag about a guy who used paint for oil rigs.
I want to coat my land rover chassis with something good.
Will watch for more opinions.

[hiloran]

In Finland many hobbyists, rally people use Tikkurila or Teknos industrial paints. They have ready painting systems/datasheets available on their webpages.

Teknos:
For base: Inerta Primer 5 - epoxy primer good rust protection, good bonding to steel, aluminium, and galvanized steel.
On top: Teknodur 0090 - polyutrethane top coat. High gloss, Good wear and weather protection.

I used this for my Audi. Easy to pain with brush. With airbrush you need larger needle as these paints are "thick coat" paints.

Tikkurila:
For base: TEMACOAT GPL-S PRIMER - same as above
On top TEMADUR 90 - same as above.

I only fixed the rusty spots . These pains did not "boil" the original paint
1. sandblasting
2 two coats of primer
3. two coats of top coat

[adam g]

Thanks for the replies, I'll look into some of those.

As per GazzaG60's comment, I don't want to just paint over rust, in most areas I want to paint over existing paint with something more hard wearing.

Is the POR15 for rust only? In areas where I just have paint could I go straight for the 3M08800.

[gnutz2]

The best paint by I have used by far is epoxy mastic 121 from here http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-r...s-paint/c28117

It's a 2k paint, keys onto surfaces like nothing I've ever used and is very tough.

I use a zink heavy base coat if it's on bare metal.

[Greg_S]

Ive been using POR15 but where I have done the suspension parts about 6 years ago they need doing again now. On the underbody I have 3M body sealer and used POR15 and seam sealer where needed. Also been using FLAG rust converter where needed too

[adam g]

I'd pretty much decided on the por15 route but I wanted more than 6 years without touching it . Did you use anything on top of it?

Does anyone know where to buy it other than online?

[diesel des]

We use something called plassguard 410 on buried and exposed gas pipelines. The surface is supposed to be blasted before application but I have tested it on some other poorly prepped steel and it seems to bury anything it's 2 pack and goes on real real thick. Not for a nice finish people would see but great for protection. It's that thick you could put it on with a knife. Well almost.

http://www.chasecorp.com/products/plasgard/plasgard-410

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[pasbogdan]

Exposed metal needs epoxy primer.And surface blasted 100% clean and dry.
On that,all products needed for surfacing and painting exterior.
Under the car:epoxy primer + rubber sprayable sealant.The sealant needs to be closed with paint.If wax is then applied this should make you use your loved car in any winter conditions.Only thing that can damage your protection is hitting something under the car and scratching the protection.Or incorrect using of car lift/jack.
The fender lips may also suffer from stones thrown by tires.I like to use rubber sprayable sealant even on the lip of the fender.The rubber will not chip as easy as paint.

[vonbeck]

If its rust free I've used biltmamber hydrate 80 then about 3 to 4 coats of por15 did my complete rear subframe and wishbones etc after being shot blasted really good finish and don't chip