How-To: Install Koni's and H&R's. [Pictorial]

[k.alle]

Anyone attempted to install Koni's on the S2 knows that the instructions that comes with them is inferior to say the least.

So today when I assembled my front struts I thought that I should make a step by step guide.
I had my struts sandblasted and powder coated before doing this job, so if you'd like to know how to _disassembly_ the struts when they has come off the car, please read the guide in reverse

Here goes.

0. Special tools needed (spring compressors, top mount nut tool, shock/strut nut tool):



1. Back from powder coating with shock nut to be removed



2. Use shock/strut nut tool to remove the nut



3. Clean the inside of the strut with a rag, remove debris and old oil



4. Pour 5cl regular engine oil into the strut



5. Now it's time to bleed the shock, place the shock up right and pull the piston up and down until you can not hear it bubble anymore



6. Place the shock into the strut (still keeping it up right)



7. Put the metal sleeve that comes with the Koni's over the shock and tap it gently in into the slot on the shock and into the strut. Put some oil on the outer edge of the sleeve.



8. Drop the shock/strut nut down



9. Tighten the shock/strut nut to 220Nm (need to double check)

[k.alle]

10. Adjust the rebound on the Koni shock with a 6mm allen key, to your preferred setting. I used 1.25 up front and 1.5 on the back.



11. Drop down the white washer supplied with the Koni's



12. Mount the supplied collar onto the shock, "press" fit



13. Drop down the bump stop and gaitor



14. Drop down the spring, in my case H&R



15. Place the upper spring seat on the spring, as you can see you don't need the spring compressors using H&R's you just put some pressure with your hand and the threaded part on the shock is visible. Warning! You will need spring compressors on OEM springs, hence the tool picture above.



16. The slotted nut that goes into the top mount, wich you place on top on the upper spring seat with the bearing on the top mount facing downwards.



17. The top mount tool in place



18. To tighten the top mount nut, use the tool above and also a 22mm hex tool to tighten and a 6mm allen key as a counter hold so the shock won't spin around. I'm sure there are fancier tools to do this with, using correct torque and all. But I just did it up tight with these tools.



19. The top mount is tightened, this is how it should look

[k.alle]

20. Place the bowl and the nut onto the shock as a safe keep till you get to the car.



21. All finished, a very easy job




Keep the struts in a up right position all the way to the car, or else you'll have to bleed the shocks again
I hope this will help anyone that feels insecure doing this, it's really not that hard.
And as I said in the beginning:
If you sit with a strut in front of you that want to disassemble, just look at this guide backwards.
And if you are on OEM springs, for the love of god use the spring compressors when assembling/disassembling!!!


Good luck, cheers!


Ps. Please correct me if I am wrong somewhere in this guide!
And sorry for the picture quality, mobile 2mpx camera

[k.alle]

And this is how you get the struts off and on the car:
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26429

[s2bug]

Very Helpful Bud,

Nice one

[GT500]

NIce right up,
I use neat antifreeze, not oil in the strut. Helps with cooling/corrosion.

[k.alle]

Thanks guys!

@GT500
Well, oil in it self help dissipate heat and stops corroding so each to his own I guess

[Skull]

why is numbet 5, the bleeding so important? what is that buuble heard? i heard that on an used, old strut too...

[aelred]

Nice work and details

[dubmeister]

NIce right up,
I use neat antifreeze, not oil in the strut. Helps with cooling/corrosion.

Car can fail an MOT if there is oil leaking from the strut!!! even tho it's not from the damper!!

[2226]

Hi.
What are the part numbers / tool numbers for the top mount nut tool and shock/strut nut tool? Any suggestions where I can mail order from or are these available through Audi?

[k.alle]

@Skull23
The bleeding is important, you get air pockets locked inside the shock in the oil.
By bleeding you ensure the shock to work as it is supposed to.
Think of it like bleeding your steering servo or cooling system of the car.
Shock absorbers can make funny noises if they are shot as well.
But if you have had the old strut removed from the car and then laid it down on it's side air can find it's way in again and forcing you to bleed it again.
I think shock absorbers bleed them selfs over time when driving the car, but it's best to bleed them when they're out.

@Aelred
Thank you, and thanks for supplying the Koni's. Great service!

@2226
I have no idea regarding part no's, my tools comes from Biltema (Cartheme in English).
I think you can compare it to Halfords based on what I have read on this forum.
The tools here in Sweden (Biltema) costs:
Spring compressors: £10
Strut/shock tool: £8
Top mount tool: £6 (A set of 4 different sizes)

You should be able to go to VAG and order them up, but be sure to have your heart medicine with you when you hear the prices

[Skull]

k.alle: ok i see, you are right, they were laid down... tnx for the info

[Error404]

Good guide mate, interesting idea about the antifreeze too guys

Been trying to find the strut tool / box spanner type things for ages - i've had to use stilsons up to now to get the insert cap off

Anyone know where you can get the right thing from over here?

[Flat on my back]

.

Borrow it from me...2069a i believe is the part no.