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After my MOT failure a few weeks back, what was supposed to be a quick bit of re-work has turned into a bit of a mini-nightmare.
It originally failed for:
'blue' sidelights
'nearside front brake pipe unsecured
brake lines close to the ABS pump unsecured
In addition with Le Mans looming on the horizon, I desperately needed to find the source of a waterleak.
Whilst setting about finding the leak and sorting the mot items, i decided to sort out a number of advisories
Fuel Lines
I used the recommended combo of 8mm kunifer and the Wade connectors. No real dramas apart from doing it on my back with car on axle stands was fun.
One thing to note on the 3b is that the line from the fuel filter has a banjo connection and a ferrule onto the hardline. Luckily i had bought 5 wade connectors so decided to cut that line and retain the fitting.
No problems getting the fuel line holders shut following completion, just need a thin blade screwdriver to hook them over the ridge. I started in the middle them worked back to the tank and then down to the engine side. I had one small drama where i hadn't made a great template of the original line and it didnt want to fit where it rises up to cross the rear of the car. In the end and with time not on my side, i used the 5th wade and just cut the pipe to take the extra height out.
Rear subframe
Fluid leak over the brake bomb
And as is always the case, you solve one problem and create some new ones
-changed the front arb bushes for the superflex ones
-decided to change the rear arb bushes too, then proceded to round off and snap the two bolts holding the arb bush bracket to the frame
-Sent off the rear subframe to get t-zerted at a local garage
-Went to pickup the subframe following a shot blast only to find that it had rotten through behind the bracket which you bolt the rear diff mount through
-Got the subframe welded and painted up
-Renewed the rear subframe alloy bushes as the originals from Dialynx which have been on the car since about 2003 had turned into white powder and vanished
Found the source of the waterleak was from the 3 entry points from the water rail into the head. The halfrauds o-ring kit rings that i had used in 2007 when getting set for the Ring had failed and under pressure water was escaping.
Reinstalled some fresh OEM ones along with a new larger gasket for the main feed. Whilst doing this i noticed that the knock sensors has both got heavy plastic cracking so took the opportunity whilst having access to change those too
Spent the whole of the day outside today, painting the freshly welded subframe with Hammerite and reinstalling that on the car, refreshing all the bolts, washers etc at the rear end and fitting some new alloy subframe mounts from Bambridge.
Sorted the bracket on the nearside strut which holds the hardline from the caliper to the flexi so it cannot move and then removed the cats.
Just need to run the car tomorrow and flush the coolant circuit with a descaler to remove a load of crap and then she should be ready for the MOT. Hopefully get Pirtek to make up a new rubber section on an aircon hose as the one from the condenser to the pump has loads of cracking on and looks like the reason my gas disappeared
Fingers crossed it passes tomorrow
only 6 days till I go away so can't afford any new issues to resolve!!!
It originally failed for:
'blue' sidelights
'nearside front brake pipe unsecured
brake lines close to the ABS pump unsecured
In addition with Le Mans looming on the horizon, I desperately needed to find the source of a waterleak.
Whilst setting about finding the leak and sorting the mot items, i decided to sort out a number of advisories
Fuel Lines
I used the recommended combo of 8mm kunifer and the Wade connectors. No real dramas apart from doing it on my back with car on axle stands was fun.
One thing to note on the 3b is that the line from the fuel filter has a banjo connection and a ferrule onto the hardline. Luckily i had bought 5 wade connectors so decided to cut that line and retain the fitting.
No problems getting the fuel line holders shut following completion, just need a thin blade screwdriver to hook them over the ridge. I started in the middle them worked back to the tank and then down to the engine side. I had one small drama where i hadn't made a great template of the original line and it didnt want to fit where it rises up to cross the rear of the car. In the end and with time not on my side, i used the 5th wade and just cut the pipe to take the extra height out.
Rear subframe
Fluid leak over the brake bomb
And as is always the case, you solve one problem and create some new ones
-changed the front arb bushes for the superflex ones
-decided to change the rear arb bushes too, then proceded to round off and snap the two bolts holding the arb bush bracket to the frame
-Sent off the rear subframe to get t-zerted at a local garage
-Went to pickup the subframe following a shot blast only to find that it had rotten through behind the bracket which you bolt the rear diff mount through
-Got the subframe welded and painted up
-Renewed the rear subframe alloy bushes as the originals from Dialynx which have been on the car since about 2003 had turned into white powder and vanished
Found the source of the waterleak was from the 3 entry points from the water rail into the head. The halfrauds o-ring kit rings that i had used in 2007 when getting set for the Ring had failed and under pressure water was escaping.
Reinstalled some fresh OEM ones along with a new larger gasket for the main feed. Whilst doing this i noticed that the knock sensors has both got heavy plastic cracking so took the opportunity whilst having access to change those too
Spent the whole of the day outside today, painting the freshly welded subframe with Hammerite and reinstalling that on the car, refreshing all the bolts, washers etc at the rear end and fitting some new alloy subframe mounts from Bambridge.
Sorted the bracket on the nearside strut which holds the hardline from the caliper to the flexi so it cannot move and then removed the cats.
Just need to run the car tomorrow and flush the coolant circuit with a descaler to remove a load of crap and then she should be ready for the MOT. Hopefully get Pirtek to make up a new rubber section on an aircon hose as the one from the condenser to the pump has loads of cracking on and looks like the reason my gas disappeared
Fingers crossed it passes tomorrow
only 6 days till I go away so can't afford any new issues to resolve!!!
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