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  • Renewing valve steam seals (with head on block)

    Hello mates!
    I dont know realy if its a guide for you on how to do that.I do not pretend to teach anyone.Just wanna show how I did the job.
    So,head on place.There are two method to keep valves unmoving during the prccess as far as I can know.Pumping air into combustion chamber (about 6-8 bar) and filling the combustion chamber with rope when piston is at bottom dead center and later compressing with piston the rope against the valves .
    I elected the rope method.It is much slower,but safer for me.And I dont need to hear the air compressor working all the time.

    Ok.Bumper,IC,crossmembers,pipe to throttle body out.Aux rad?I bent it to a side and ensured with old wire.

    Aux belts out.Timing belt cover out.Engine set up on timing marks.


    Timing belt loosed from camshaft puley.

    Camshaft puley removal.Did my own tool for this step.Basicly its a racord spanner shortened blocking elements to do not damage hall sender disc.


    Camshaft leaking seal.

    Camshaft puley OK.

    Throttle body,injection and hall wiring,coilpack out.


    Coilpack I had removed before but it doesnt metter.

    Breather system to cam cover out.

    This before also but anyway.

    Cam cover out.

    For a camshaft removal ELSA says:
    Exhaust cam.First bearing cap nearest to chane,then cap 2 and 4 in X,and cap 1,3,5 in X.
    Intake cam.Cap nearest to chane.7 and 9 in X,and 6,8,10 in X.
    Allright.

    Lifters and spark plugs out.

    Setting cyl1 at bottom.I used 7a dip stick for this.

    And then I worked with this.ebay valve compressor and 10 meter soft rope.


    Filled 3 meters into cylinder helping at some points with long flat screw driver.Turned cranksaft clockwise until I feel its enough.Hammered upper valve spring seats.Set up the brackets for a tool.Was thinking how to do not damage new seals during install couse seals came with out caps.Managed this with
    heat shrink sleeve.I started.At the begining one by one later 2 by 2.







    The difference.Old 7mm ID hard like a stone (elring).New 6.1 mm.

    7A,ABY and Victor Reinz

    more pics tomorrow.
    Last edited by Dima ABY; 4 November 2015, 07:03.

  • #2
    Excellent post. Very detailed. Thanks for posting.

    RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
    94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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    • #3
      very informative post for those who wants to pull off the toast stem seals.
      Thanks.
      one of a few I5 from Asia.

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      • #4
        Nice write up with good pics. Not so bad job after all.

        The compressed air in cylinder way works also fine, have done it. And the compressor does not work all the time if you don't have very bad rings or valve seats.


        Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
        Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
        BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
        BMW 740iA e38 - Project

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        • #5
          Thank you!
          Thuppu,yes sure but my air compressor is 5 litre capacity.It will make me sick,I know

          Some seals had carbon deposits inside.

          The hight of the old seals installed was 13,5mm intake and 15mm exhaust.
          New seal go on.

          Pressing the seal.Its going in easy by hand.

          Reinstalling the valve springs.Here I used 40 cm pipe.First I tried without and during valve keepers install my hand was unstable.It seemed that I had parkinson.Pipe do it 10 times easier.A little bit of greese to make keepers sticky and cylinder by cylinder I have it done.I must say that once I had to refill cylinder 3 couse rope was pressing only 3 valves.




          Ready.Some surface cleaning.



          Oiled a bit the lifters.And fitted.

          Camshaft time.ELSA says:
          Intake.Fit bearing caps 6,8,10 in X.Then the remaining.
          Exhaust.Fit caps 1,3,5 in X.Then the remaining.
          Observe timing marks.
          Here I didnt listen Elsa a lot.I fited all caps.Gradualy tighten from front to back in X in about 10 stages.
          Torqued to 15 Nm.After 30 min retorqued again.


          New camshaft seal.





          Cam cover placed.


          Camshaft puley back in.Torqued 65 Nm.

          Timing belt placed.Checked.Tighted.

          Spark plugs,coil pack,injection wireing,breather tubes fitted.Important,earth wire.

          Timing belt cover,aux belts fitted.

          Thats all.
          Sorry guys for my bad english.

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          • #6
            Very good thanks for posting pic's and how too!

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            • #7
              Nice info thanks, inspirational as i really need to do this on mine..
              91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
              93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
              94S2Bus - The Emerald Express

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              • #8
                I will need to do this within a couple days.my AAN rebuild head is laying aside my bed.
                Yes.I keep the engine in my bedroom lol.
                one of a few I5 from Asia.

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                • #9
                  It has been getting a little embarrassing sitting in traffic with puffs of blue smoke coming out the exhaust so i suspected the turbo and pulled it off to find it bone dry on the hot and cold side. Little further investigation i found this...



                  I guess its official, i need to do these seals ASAP. Still undecided on the rope vs air, would be interested to hear from others who have done this...
                  91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
                  93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
                  94S2Bus - The Emerald Express

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                  • #10
                    Yes,definitely yours ended their cycle.
                    Pumping air is much more easier and faster.I think with air compressor with,lets say 25lts capacity,would be fine.

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                    • #11
                      Any 20vt engine has its exhaust stems worn out after 150 000 km of use ( due to design of head with exhaust valves at 90 deg ) so going cheap on head rebuild is not the best solution. Nevermind the absence of carbon deposit cleaning on both head and pistons.

                      Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

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                      • #12
                        Exactly. It is quite a rare situation where only the seals are faulty. If the valve stems are worn then these new sealt wont last for long. But still, its a good guide and same method can be used on different cars.

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                        • #13
                          In an ideal world i would agree, but last time i checked head bolts were not cheap, plus the cost of gaskets, head machining, and possible headaches of broken studs taking the exhaust manifold off. Would rather not have to go there..
                          91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
                          93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
                          94S2Bus - The Emerald Express

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                          • #14
                            Done. I tried using an air compressor but i couldn't crack the collets loose without the valve opening and purging the air pressure. Eventually i gave up and fed 3 meters of rope into the plug hole which worked great, definitely the better way to do it.

                            Used this compressor which worked great, really nice bit of kit

                            http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251245827992
                            91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
                            93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
                            94S2Bus - The Emerald Express

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                            • #15
                              Well done, that was quick, looking forward to your feedback on the improvements.

                              Any photos of your old ones beside some new ones for me to see and Dave to use.





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