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  • Clutch pedal sticking half way up

    Hi guys,

    Yesterday I experienced weird clutch actions..

    I depressed and released the clutch pedal, Only to realize that the clutch pedal got stuck half way up. It required a slight touch with my foot under the pedal, then the pedal sprang back to its normal position.

    I am cautious to use the term "stuck", because although the pedal is stuck in half way position, I didn't feel any notches. It seemed like the pedal stopped due to friction in the particular spot along the travel path of the pedal.

    Now it went back to normal, but I am curious what to look for.. I crawled in the footwell and took a look, but I didn't find anything abnormal. I noticed that there are two clutch return springs attached to the pedal. Maybe one of them is to blame?

  • #2
    Originally posted by huksa View Post
    Hi guys,

    Yesterday I experienced weird clutch actions..

    I depressed and released the clutch pedal, Only to realize that the clutch pedal got stuck half way up. It required a slight touch with my foot under the pedal, then the pedal sprang back to its normal position.

    I am cautious to use the term "stuck", because although the pedal is stuck in half way position, I didn't feel any notches. It seemed like the pedal stopped due to friction in the particular spot along the travel path of the pedal.

    Now it went back to normal, but I am curious what to look for.. I crawled in the footwell and took a look, but I didn't find anything abnormal. I noticed that there are two clutch return springs attached to the pedal. Maybe one of them is to blame?
    Could just be water in the system so bleeding the system with new fluid might fix it (Dot 4)
    1996 S2 ABY Silver

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    • #3
      That was the exact symptom of a failing clutch master cylinder on our Ur last year. Through gear changes it was okay, but in traffic or longer periods of clutch depression it would stick half way. I suspect the clutch slave cylinder would give similar symptoms. Check both to see if there is any evidence (even small amounts) of leaking or moisture, usually the rubber boot fills up with fluid first.
      85 WR Urquattro, 85 20vT International liveried RallyRep
      93 MTMS2 Avant

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      • #4
        Thanks for the tips!

        I will have it thoroughly checked with particular emphasis on what you guys observed. I hope it's just water / air in the system as rynaqui has suspected.

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        • #5
          That would be the easiest option but I got the same experience as Ian with a similar issue.

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          • #6
            I've seen that happen with the clutch slave... several times on these old Audis. Changing the slave in situ can be done but it isn't easy. Helps if you have a small friend or a skinny teenager you can coach along. It's pretty tight down there. My experience is with the 500/200/Ur-Q. Iirc there is a pin that needs to be punched out from the right side. If you are lucky it has been done before and a bolt is used in place of the swage pin. Be sure to bench bleed the replacement prior to install. Good luck!

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            • #7
              It is secured with a bolt on the S2/RS2

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              • #8
                Happened to mine recently was the slave cylinder, £100 from Audi

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                • #9
                  Mine went that way only a couple of weeks ago. Slave and master. Now I'll be looking to get a master for spare as they are obsolete

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by huksa View Post
                    Hi guys,

                    Yesterday I experienced weird clutch actions..

                    I depressed and released the clutch pedal, Only to realize that the clutch pedal got stuck half way up. It required a slight touch with my foot under the pedal, then the pedal sprang back to its normal position.

                    I am cautious to use the term "stuck", because although the pedal is stuck in half way position, I didn't feel any notches. It seemed like the pedal stopped due to friction in the particular spot along the travel path of the pedal.

                    Now it went back to normal, but I am curious what to look for.. I crawled in the footwell and took a look, but I didn't find anything abnormal. I noticed that there are two clutch return springs attached to the pedal. Maybe one of them is to blame?
                    Sounds to me that the bush on the push rod to the master has gone very common, I solved this problem by fitting one without the bush been going strong for years now, I got sick of replacing them
                    RS 2 580HP

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jade View Post
                      Sounds to me that the bush on the push rod to the master has gone very common, I solved this problem by fitting one without the bush been going strong for years now, I got sick of replacing them
                      "The one without the bush".. What have you used, a part number would help a lot? Is it a direct replacement?

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                      • #12
                        if you fix your pedal problem, post up how you did it...this is exactly the same problem I have...it seems almost like its missing a spring, not a failure of cylinder...I have bled it, still the same...I am not losing fluid ... dont want to replace a cylinder if its something else ....what is that 'bush' that Jade refers to ? Anyone got a diagram...if it fails and causes a stuck pedal, how does removing it help ?

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                        • #13
                          So, my problem was the clutch slave cylinder, after all.

                          Now both the slave and master cylinders have been replaced and I would like to share my experience..

                          I've searched this great forum and got the impression that the slave cylinder can be replaced with transmission in place (although it seemed very very difficult to get to the part). It is may be a difference between RHD and LHD (mine is LHD), or may be that my car has a vacuum brake booster, but there is no way for me to reach and wiggle the clutch slave cylinder without removing the engine or the transmission out of the car.

                          So I decided to have the tranny out, and replace all the parts in question, fluid pipes and hoses, coolant connector, as well as clutch and pressure plate.

                          The work was reasonably went smoothly, but there are some points that I want to make:

                          1. Slave cylinder: I didn't bought the genuine parts, but a replacement parts (4A0-721-261) made by FTE. The angles of the nipples are not the same (RS2's angle is 90 degree, whereas the new part has some 30 degree), so a minor modification was required.

                          2. Master cylinder: The Audi part seems NLA, so I bought 4A0721401 (Genuine A6).
                          Firstly, the RS2 cylnder has a recess in the body into which a bracket sits.. 4A0721401 does not have the recess. So another mod required. [See pic for RS2 cylinder]


                          Another thing is that, the push rod of 4A0721401 is approx. 10 mm, while RS2 cylinder is 12 mm. You need to do something about it, too.

                          3. After replacing the master cylinder, I felt the slack in the movement of the clutch pedal. It was due to the rod pushing the cylinder at a slight angle (Difficult to explain..) The cure was Rusty's clutch rod brace. The brace magically took the symtom away at the first try. [See pic]


                          Now everything seems under control now. Many thanks to forum members for tips and great posts and great product!

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                          • #14
                            I read the RS2 master cylinder has a M8 rod while all the other models use M6. How was yours?
                            Go Holset or Go RS4

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Billman View Post
                              I read the RS2 master cylinder has a M8 rod while all the other models use M6. How was yours?
                              Somehow I thought it was 12mm for RS2 and 10mm for A6. At any rate, RS2's rod was definately thicker.

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