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Acq 10vt - oldschool turbo power

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  • Acq 10vt - oldschool turbo power

    Yo,

    was reading forum here quite a lot, thought i will share my experiment/project too...still it's 'in progress'

    SPECS:

    -MC2 engine;
    -034 camshaft;
    -VEMS ecu;
    -HX35/kkk26 #6 turbo hibrid;
    -custom header;
    -3inch full intake/exhaust system;
    -and other bits.

    450hp/650NM

    When i bought it... 2.3E 10v quattro.




    Began with underneath/susspension








    Bought and assembled ecu...





    In winter studied head porting/assembling...










    Back to susspension...

    convesion 4x108 -> 5x112 ARP studs




    Put PowerFlex bushes...



    Rear brakes upgraded to 280mm (g60)





    Atm 01A gearbox...




    Repainted engine bay





    kkk24 vs HX35/kkk26




    Brembo 323mm front brake upgrade




    Upgraded fuel lines from summitracing









    Fuel rail with 880cc injectors finished




    Custome made ingnition





    Fully rebuild bottom end with stock parts...




    3B pp + clutchnet ceramic clutch disc



    On it's wheels



    Upgraded MBC to 7A




    Some bits



    Inconel material for header






    Not much room left







    Putting in ecu wiring...



    Some view appears



    Head coolant mod



    Battery relocation






    Wiring



    FMIC installation





    3inch SS piping - heavy





    First drive!

    LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWwlcA0t0RQ

    Finishing interior






    3inch SS custom made muffler




    Exhaust - wanted to make it as silent as possible...and managed - very nice sound!




    First 'boost' try - franky look




    Almost finished




    Custom coilovers made...



    Afer some boost test, my new Erling head bolts failed and got blowby to coolant system...



    Meanwhile made heatshield




    Bought ARP head studs to hold desired boost





    There was dyno day, so took it to check what it's all about! Had some issues with boost creep before

    dyno (used 30mm audi WG), so tried to port it to 34mm, but have a little overbored, so the valve

    didn't hold and got this 'broken exhaust' sound + my spool took from 3k rpm to 4k rpm now ... still

    there was no time and i dyno'd it. All mapping was done same day going to dyno, so it's far from fine

    Atm redline is 6,5k rpm ( not sure why dyno measured only till 6k ) - plans are 7k rpm.

    LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3RcY...layer_embedded





    Now have ported another one, but this time success! Got valve lift ~3mm more and it's bored to 34mm +

    ported inside. Havent tried it yet, but hope it'll fix my boost creep.





    that's it - 2y build story in few hours ... no will start updating constantly here.

    Any comments about stock MC bottom end limits? What i'm worried are rod studs - should have upgraded it to ARP ...

    thanks,
    T.
    Last edited by Takumi; 16 September 2014, 12:51.
    BLOG: http://quattro10vt.wordpress.com/

  • #2
    Nice project, I'd have thought uprated con rods along with ARP studs would be a good idea with the size of that turbo. I've got an MC2 engine sat waiting to go in a B2 90 quattro so I'll be interested to see how you get on with this.
    1989 B3 2.0 3A 80 quattro... Budget 1.8T Project.
    1992 C4 100 2.8 Avant quattro... Mobile Sitting Room.
    1995 RS2... MTM K26/7 380 BHP Conversion.
    1990 Corrado G60... Breaking For Parts.

    Comment


    • #3
      very nice work there

      Comment


      • #4
        don't think rods are weak...just afraid of rod studs. If changing only them, is it needed to get rods to machine shop for checking roundness? Have read some threads, that when torqued, crank doesnt spin
        BLOG: http://quattro10vt.wordpress.com/

        Comment


        • #5
          I think you'll bend the rods before those bolts let go, if that motor see's any significant knock those rods are dead! Anyway, cracking job on the build, well done.
          2000 B5 A4 Quattro Sport ~ 2.0 20V GT30R ~ Gone
          1993 S2 ABY Coupe ~ Gone
          1989 2.2E Coupe ~ Gone

          Comment


          • #6
            433 whp or chp?

            Comment


            • #7
              MC rods are very strong , they are heavy and not suited to very high rpm but you can load them up with torque with boost well past what would bend ABY rods, as long as you don't try and over rev them they will not let go.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Twenny Benson View Post
                I think you'll bend the rods before those bolts let go, if that motor see's any significant knock those rods are dead! Anyway, cracking job on the build, well done.
                Couldn't be more wrong , I had an MC2 years ago knocking its head off with boost with a to4 and it
                just kept going. The MC rods are very strong, not like puny 20v rods at all.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by donce View Post
                  433 whp or chp?
                  as what in video can be seen - HT say it's whp, still i think it's crank hp.
                  So 600NM+ for these rods should be ok then? As per my plan i would like to hit 2bar boost, to get hx35 working in it's full efficiency...
                  BLOG: http://quattro10vt.wordpress.com/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Fair do's, I stand corrected. Still seem's like a risky manouver to me though considering what they cost these days.
                    2000 B5 A4 Quattro Sport ~ 2.0 20V GT30R ~ Gone
                    1993 S2 ABY Coupe ~ Gone
                    1989 2.2E Coupe ~ Gone

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Very nice project you have there. 10vt with some serious power must sound good.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Twenny Benson View Post
                        Fair do's, I stand corrected. Still seem's like a risky manouver to me though considering what they cost these days.
                        If it ain't broke and all that. They are stronger rods and will take the 600 nm so why change

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Very nice build! Looking forward for updates.
                          Go Holset or Go RS4

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice project.
                            Those stretched headbolts show why going to high tensile strength bolts like ARP's is not an option but a must have when running higher boost.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Takumi View Post
                              as what in video can be seen - HT say it's whp, still i think it's crank hp.
                              So 600NM+ for these rods should be ok then? As per my plan i would like to hit 2bar boost, to get hx35 working in it's full efficiency...
                              I routinely map 20vt to 600nm on stock rods. Never bent any of them yet.
                              I think you can easily go to over 700nm with the MC rods, just don't rev the engine too much and don't knock (which is hard since VEMS does not have good knock control, so keep your timing SAFE). I think 6500 revlimit will be good for this car, once you fix the slow spool issue.

                              K26 #6 will run out of steam anyway over 6300 rpm's, so just run more boost early on, and get a nice powerband from about 3700 to 6200, and you will have a very driveable car.

                              Good luck with your project.

                              P.S. I also think that it is 433 chp, HX35 does not usually do 400+ whp on pump gas with small housing.
                              http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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