Hi everyone my name is Julian from the states. I wish I could be making my introduction under better circumstances but here goes.
Once upon a time I blew my motor by installing an HX35 and spinning a rod bearing. I did my darnedest to tune the car while learning all I could about VEMS. Fast forward 2 months to me sending my spare 3b to a local machine shop for a refresh. The motor had an unknown history that I bought from a parts car a state away 3 years prior. It was nasty inside BUT the bearings were perfect according to the shop near my home. The did the works on the block and I provided my DM forged rods and calico bearings throughout. I even had them check tolerances and install the rotating assembly. They ultimately had to do a line bore on the main caps due to my ARP main stud kit from 034 (the upgraded version with one short stud). I provided **** instructions for installation of the studs so as to prevent damage to my brand new oil check valve. All precautions were taken to prevent joe schmoe from ruining my bucket list Audi build. I have a degree in engineering so I'm quite attentive to details and know that in most scenarios you must do things yourself for the best outcome. However, tolerancing a motor, let alone rebuilding one, is not part of my vast skill set so I paid the machinist to do the assembly of the block and new rings on stock cleaned pistons.
I put blood sweat and tears into rebuilding the car before the weather turns evil here in Erie PA. I feel like the "perfectly built racecar" that breaks down as soon as it passes the finish line. I am exhausted and discouraged at this point. Also its f#cking cold outside now
Ive been priming the engine, or so I thought, for about 2 weeks since finishing putting it together. It has run for about 20 seconds total between 2 attempts. Sounded great during those seconds.
Heres my dilemma. I'm having a problem just as described here:
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...o+oil+pressure
The big difference is a professional machinist installed my brand new check valve in the block. I took many occasions to ask how that procedure went. "We had zero concerns during installation" he tells me every time. The bag containing the ARP hardware had torque instructions as well as the caution concerning use of the shortest stud in the #3 main's cap. The Bentley manual was provided for all other references and I used a bookmark for every location of concern. I even wrote all instructions again on the bookmark. I thought, "ill be damned if you can figure out a way to mess this up for me through my lack of instruction." check valve installed:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...175b/ES282197/
Yes the price has increased $13 since I bought it, because why not?
To continue, I have had the 2 oil pressure sensors out for the last week so I could watch for oil from their locations during cranking. I'm using a starter button connected to the starter to eliminate any other draws on the battery. The sensor locations are DRY inside. Not a drop of oil. No oil pressure on the gauge in the dash (obviously due to a lack of OIL).
After running a fresh battery down to under 12 volts, we decided to remove the oil feed line in a last ditch effort to find life in the oil system. I cranked the motor for under 10 seconds and that resulted in about 8 ounces of oil coming from the turbo feed line. No oil from anywhere else yet. the oil continued to run out even after I stopped cranking.
So did my "machinist" ruin my perfectly laid plans by forgetting to install oil galley plugs while doing his job he received payment for or did he simply ruin my new check valve during assembly or is he at fault no matter what anyone thinks at this point?
Here have a look at this:
That's a representative cartoon picture of my face
Sorry but I'm sure some of you will understand my demeanor at this point in time. Id greatly appreciate any and all input from her on out. Thanks in advance.
PS I will have to borrow the tool needed to uninstall the check valve from the machinist to even check it
Once upon a time I blew my motor by installing an HX35 and spinning a rod bearing. I did my darnedest to tune the car while learning all I could about VEMS. Fast forward 2 months to me sending my spare 3b to a local machine shop for a refresh. The motor had an unknown history that I bought from a parts car a state away 3 years prior. It was nasty inside BUT the bearings were perfect according to the shop near my home. The did the works on the block and I provided my DM forged rods and calico bearings throughout. I even had them check tolerances and install the rotating assembly. They ultimately had to do a line bore on the main caps due to my ARP main stud kit from 034 (the upgraded version with one short stud). I provided **** instructions for installation of the studs so as to prevent damage to my brand new oil check valve. All precautions were taken to prevent joe schmoe from ruining my bucket list Audi build. I have a degree in engineering so I'm quite attentive to details and know that in most scenarios you must do things yourself for the best outcome. However, tolerancing a motor, let alone rebuilding one, is not part of my vast skill set so I paid the machinist to do the assembly of the block and new rings on stock cleaned pistons.
I put blood sweat and tears into rebuilding the car before the weather turns evil here in Erie PA. I feel like the "perfectly built racecar" that breaks down as soon as it passes the finish line. I am exhausted and discouraged at this point. Also its f#cking cold outside now
Ive been priming the engine, or so I thought, for about 2 weeks since finishing putting it together. It has run for about 20 seconds total between 2 attempts. Sounded great during those seconds.
Heres my dilemma. I'm having a problem just as described here:
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...o+oil+pressure
The big difference is a professional machinist installed my brand new check valve in the block. I took many occasions to ask how that procedure went. "We had zero concerns during installation" he tells me every time. The bag containing the ARP hardware had torque instructions as well as the caution concerning use of the shortest stud in the #3 main's cap. The Bentley manual was provided for all other references and I used a bookmark for every location of concern. I even wrote all instructions again on the bookmark. I thought, "ill be damned if you can figure out a way to mess this up for me through my lack of instruction." check valve installed:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...175b/ES282197/
Yes the price has increased $13 since I bought it, because why not?
To continue, I have had the 2 oil pressure sensors out for the last week so I could watch for oil from their locations during cranking. I'm using a starter button connected to the starter to eliminate any other draws on the battery. The sensor locations are DRY inside. Not a drop of oil. No oil pressure on the gauge in the dash (obviously due to a lack of OIL).
After running a fresh battery down to under 12 volts, we decided to remove the oil feed line in a last ditch effort to find life in the oil system. I cranked the motor for under 10 seconds and that resulted in about 8 ounces of oil coming from the turbo feed line. No oil from anywhere else yet. the oil continued to run out even after I stopped cranking.
So did my "machinist" ruin my perfectly laid plans by forgetting to install oil galley plugs while doing his job he received payment for or did he simply ruin my new check valve during assembly or is he at fault no matter what anyone thinks at this point?
Here have a look at this:
That's a representative cartoon picture of my face
Sorry but I'm sure some of you will understand my demeanor at this point in time. Id greatly appreciate any and all input from her on out. Thanks in advance.
PS I will have to borrow the tool needed to uninstall the check valve from the machinist to even check it
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