wheel bearing setup pix?

[missmouse]

anyone able to post a link to a diagram of the (rear) wheel bearings setup?
Just like how they are fixed in?
Ive read thru a few of the posts & some folk claim they are held in by circlips as is usual others say only an interferance fit.
'93 ABY

Thanx
Simon

[porkkis]

They are only pressed in. The older b chassis quattros used a circlip but they dropped using it at around MY88.

[missmouse]

thanx for that porkkis, do you have any idea where i would find a pic or diagram of the setup? I gave the hub into my local garage to remove/refit a new bearing but they are conviced that the bearing is not replacable & say i need a new hub assembly!
I think its 'cos most cars do have a circlip!
So if I can show them something in print to convince them it will save a whole lot of time taking the hub 40 miles away to next garage!
simon

[s2dude]

thanx for that porkkis, do you have any idea where i would find a pic or diagram of the setup? I gave the hub into my local garage to remove/refit a new bearing but they are conviced that the bearing is not replacable & say i need a new hub assembly!
I think its 'cos most cars do have a circlip!
So if I can show them something in print to convince them it will save a whole lot of time taking the hub 40 miles away to next garage!
simon

Your in luck!!!
As I have just removed and refurbished (pretty much) ALL of my hubs and wheel bearings (Im fussy like that!)


This one shows the new bearings pressed in WITHOUT circlips as it can be seen there are no grooves for the circlip as Billman says!




Rear side view with ABS sensor showing (not sure why crappy photo bucket has shrunk this damn picture...Its identical size to all the others!)



Excuse the slightly crappy disk protector!! I didnt feel the need to spend £30 per side only for the UK weather to kill the next oner. ....In a few months I will change it)



The Hub just presses on with light pressure (or taps on with a lump hammer and block of wood provided of course the underside of the bearing is fully supported to prevent any damage....I used a 20 tonne press )



Thats it.
but basically missmouse take the hubs to a new/decent garage as they are full of BS.
new Hubs and hub carriers will stand you to at least £250-£300 per side and Audi had none at all when I asked

A good garage will press the bearings out and pres new ones in with NO circlip needed at all. PLus the hub is jsut pressed into the bearing afterwards. Then the Hub Bolt secures the assembly to the driveshaft.

Good Luck

[missmouse]

thanx for all those pix mate!
just one more thing- what kind of force was required to remove the old bearings?
maybe they are so tight they are scared they might damage my hub or something?
Ive done dozons of other makes of w/bearings myself before but no longer have the equipment so have to rely on *******s like these now!

cheers,
simon

[s2dude]

thanx for all those pix mate!
just one more thing- what kind of force was required to remove the old bearings?
maybe they are so tight they are scared they might damage my hub or something?
Ive done dozons of other makes of w/bearings myself before but no longer have the equipment so have to rely on *******s like these now!

cheers,
simon

Glad to be of assistance
The old bearings require a minimum of a 10-15 tonee press. 20 tonnes is a safe bet and what I use

This is not a lot for a hydraulic press and any decent garage should have one
There is no other possible way in the worl to get the bearings out without a bearing press and correct tooling (to actually press on to the bearing with) .

If they cant do it i would suggest driving round with the hubs to a few garages and ask if one of them will do it for you.
£20-£25 should see them right for the job...obviously if you supply the bearings......

approx £25 per side for a kit from GSF or ECP (they come with circlips but they go in the bin!)...Its a pressure fit and it aint gonna come loose !

[Graham]

I done my without removing the hub from the car, being the tight git i am i didnt want to destroy the ABS sensors which are rusted in to hell , i just disconnected the ball joint. I made a pulling kit for ther rears and the front one is half way made at work so i can do the fronts in situ aswell. They are hellishly tight but once the initial bit of movement happened they were easy.

Red indicates dimensions for ther rear wheel bearing and Blue indicates the front wheel bearing, Green indicates a common dimension on both assemblys.

The pullers i make are simple but can load over 20 tonne with just 2 spanners, you need a disc making approx 66mm DIA X 12mm thick for the back bearings and approx 72mm X 12mm for the fronts (havnt made this part yet) with a 21mm hole bored through the disk.
A bit of 80mmID Pipe X 80mm long (3mm wall thickness min) for the backs and 85mmID X 80mm pipe for the fronts.
Make another disc bigger than the ID of the pipe (90mm for the rears, 100mm for the fronts) with a central 21mm Hole in. (I usually step this disc with a spiggot so it sits centrally in the pipe.).
Then buy a bit of M20 fine threadded bar (300mm long will be enough, preferably High tensile) and 4 nuts (2 Spare) and 4 washers(Hardened).
Then have 2 discs made with an OD 1mm smaller than the OD of the bearing (So either 74mm OD for the back or 81mmOD for the fronts) with the 21mm hole drilled through (12mm thick)(For re-fitting the new bearing).

Now with all these parts manufactured remove the rotating part of the hub (after undoing driveshaft nut, removing wheel, and removing driveshaft).
This should come out with some light tapping on a brass dolly from the back side or using driveshaft bolts through the hub onto the hub housing(use old bolts) The bearing will fall to bits as it comes out leaving the shell or maybe the inner race which will push out with a light tap.
Now your left with the outer race in the hub.
For example i will use the rear bearing, its exactly the same principle for the fronts using the larger components
Fit the 66MM disk from the back side into the bearing, it should come to rest on the center ridge of the shell what the balls run against.
Now hold the M20 rod with a nut and washer at one end then behind the washer the large 90mm disk and the pipe against the disk up to the outside of the hub inserting the rod through the 66mm disc inside the bearing shell. Fit the nut and washer to the other end of the screwed rod. I screwed the outer nut down the rod till the assembly was nice and firm keeping the other nut at the end of the rod with 1 thread sticking through the inner nut.
Hold a socket or ring spanner against the back nut and wind up the front nut.
The assembly will go tight but keep on screwing untill the bearing pulls out.
I have used this technique many times on wheel bearings, wishbone bushes, and the diff bush with success every time.
I will do a few assembly diagrams to aid.

[s2dude]

I done my without removing the hub from the car, being the tight git i am i didnt want to destroy the ABS sensors which are rusted in to hell , i just disconnected the ball joint. I made a pulling kit for ther rears and the front one is half way made at work so i can do the fronts in situ aswell. They are hellishly tight but once the initial bit of movement happened they were easy.

Red indicates dimensions for ther rear wheel bearing and Blue indicates the front wheel bearing, Green indicates a common dimension on both assemblys.

The pullers i make are simple but can load over 20 tonne with just 2 spanners, you need a disc making approx 66mm DIA X 12mm thick for the back bearings and approx 72mm X 12mm for the fronts (havnt made this part yet) with a 21mm hole bored through the disk.
A bit of 80mmID Pipe X 80mm long (3mm wall thickness min) for the backs and 85mmID X 80mm pipe for the fronts.
Make another disc bigger than the ID of the pipe (90mm for the rears, 100mm for the fronts) with a central 21mm Hole in. (I usually step this disc with a spiggot so it sits centrally in the pipe.).
Then buy a bit of M20 fine threadded bar (300mm long will be enough, preferably High tensile) and 4 nuts (2 Spare) and 4 washers(Hardened).
Then have 2 discs made with an OD 1mm smaller than the OD of the bearing (So either 74mm OD for the back or 81mmOD for the fronts) with the 21mm hole drilled through (12mm thick)(For re-fitting the new bearing).

Now with all these parts manufactured remove the rotating part of the hub (after undoing driveshaft nut, removing wheel, and removing driveshaft).
This should come out with some light tapping on a brass dolly from the back side or using driveshaft bolts through the hub onto the hub housing(use old bolts) The bearing will fall to bits as it comes out leaving the shell or maybe the inner race which will push out with a light tap.
Now your left with the outer race in the hub.
For example i will use the rear bearing, its exactly the same principle for the fronts using the larger components
Fit the 66MM disk from the back side into the bearing, it should come to rest on the center ridge of the shell what the balls run against.
Now hold the M20 rod with a nut and washer at one end then behind the washer the large 90mm disk and the pipe against the disk up to the outside of the hub inserting the rod through the 66mm disc inside the bearing shell. Fit the nut and washer to the other end of the screwed rod. I screwed the outer nut down the rod till the assembly was nice and firm keeping the other nut at the end of the rod with 1 thread sticking through the inner nut.
Hold a socket or ring spanner against the back nut and wind up the front nut.
The assembly will go tight but keep on screwing untill the bearing pulls out.
I have used this technique many times on wheel bearings, wishbone bushes, and the diff bush with success every time.
I will do a few assembly diagrams to aid.

Jeez Graham......All that to save your ABS sensor Scrooge springs to mind

A much easier solution is to just undo the ABS sensor from within the car...and pull the connector through the chassis tunnel and just take the hub and ABS connector off whole and keep them together all the time!!

Then pop into your local friendly mate with a press :mischeif:

Though I know how useful bearing pullers are!! but personally it soudns a bit too much effort for me using one for this job

[Graham]

Here is an assembly view with the extractor in place.
The red part inside the hub is the 66mm disc
The red part on the right is the large 90mm disc
The purple is the pipe against the hub what the bearing is to be pulled into.
The orange is the nuts

[Graham]

Jeez Graham......All that to save your ABS sensor Scrooge springs to mind

A much easier solution is to just undo the ABS sensor from within the car...and pull the connector through the chassis tunnel and just take the hub and ABS connector off whole and keep them together all the time!!

Then pop into your local friendly mate with a press :mischeif:

Though I know how useful bearing pullers are!! but personally it soudns a bit too much effort for me using one for this job

You are right , but i have a bit of spare time and material at work so i made my own:mischeif: , so i dont have to have a second car to go to the garage which in my luck will probably be shut anyways , i can do the job in one go without leaving the car and i have the tool in my possession to do it all again next time. For an hours work in a lathe making 2 kits, and being paid to do so makes me Uncle Ebenezer the 2nd. and my wires are never touched.
Graham

[BRY]

Jeez Graham......All that to save your ABS sensor Scrooge springs to mind

A much easier solution is to just undo the ABS sensor from within the car...and pull the connector through the chassis tunnel and just take the hub and ABS connector off whole and keep them together all the time!!

Then pop into your local friendly mate with a press :mischeif:

Though I know how useful bearing pullers are!! but personally it soudns a bit too much effort for me using one for this job

Then pay ~ £80 for a four wheel alignment on your car, which will be wrong until the second or third attempt.
I would rather not disturb the settings for the alignment and make a puller kit.

[Graham]

Then pay ~ £80 for a four wheel alignment on your car, which will be wrong until the second or third attempt.
I would rather not disturb the settings for the alignment and make a puller kit.

The beer is on me mate (cheap home brew of course ), there is that point aswell

[s2dude]

Then pay ~ £80 for a four wheel alignment on your car, which will be wrong until the second or third attempt.
I would rather not disturb the settings for the alignment and make a puller kit.

Mmm. True!
Though I had to remove my hubs because the previous dimwit owner had removed a sensor and not put a blanking plug in the hole
Meaning LOTS of crap to clear out of there

[s2dude]

Here is an assembly view with the extractor in place.
The red part inside the hub is the 66mm disc
The red part on the right is the large 90mm disc
The purple is the pipe against the hub what the bearing is to be pulled into.
The orange is the nuts

Looks a lot easier when shown visually!!!
I'm liking the puller idea more now!!!
Just how much pressure do you have to crank onto those nuts though to acheive the desired extraction?!!!! (like breaker bar or whatever?!)

[AndyP]

Then pay ~ £80 for a four wheel alignment on your car, which will be wrong until the second or third attempt.
I would rather not disturb the settings for the alignment and make a puller kit.

£80!! where are you getting prices for 4 wheel alignment from