DIY: 3B to ABY hall sensor swap

[rs200]

hy..
finally I get all parts,time and wish to convert my 3B hall sensor to ABY.
all parts that you need for conversation :

AAN/ABY/ADU oil pump (pipe from oil pump in oil pan must stay 3B,AAN is different)
AAN timing belt
AAN water pump
AAN timing belt tensioner
AAN cam pulley
AAN inner and external timing belt cover ,
AAN metal cover witch had timing mark
AAN water pipe for turbo cooling
AAN HALL SENSOR

of course you also must have one AAN engine block and head to copy wholes for tensioner and hall sensor.
here was the start, oil pump changed.




here is 3B head without hall sensor

than you must produce this custom tool to get mark for wholes on head





drill this 2 wholes for 8mm with 5mm bore , because after that you must put 6mm bolt on it.
don't worry with right whole you will pass truth head to cam chain, after that you must clean that inside head . left whole is ok.

after that drill the same size bore (5mm) into the engine block to make wholes for timming belt tensioner.
at that place you will get into the water of engine block, don't worry, this is normal. because AAN block is stronger inside at that place. before this 3 wholes relese engine water out. don't drill it further . when you see the water. than is ok.



use this 6mm bolts (without head) on engine block and head . messure it how long they have to be.

DON'T FORGET to use liquid metal glue (2 component) to hold that bolts on place , and also they will sealed wholes from water and oil.
hall sensor and tensioner is at place !


use this 4 ,6mm nut , because with them your hall sensor will be 1cm further , and this is exactly the right place for it.




tensioner is at place too !




change the watter pump, put engine on his marks , and it is done !



my engine is finally at good position, 100% at good marks and no more problem with hall sensor in distributor. it runs better , smoother and idle is perfect !
be patience.. and everithing will be ok !
if somebody will need this custom tool for hall sensor marks it is here, and for block too!
if you have any questions.. I'm here.

Best Regards
Igor

[K Simmonds]

Fair play, you have put some serious though and effort into that solution, how did you manage to drill the holes square to face of the block/head with the engine in the car? Did you make some sort of rig to hold the drill straight. You must have been very pleased after putting it all together and firing it up.

[UrS4boy]

G40 Hall Sender Location Options

Good job. However, that was a lot of work.

You do realize that you could have just used the 3B distributor (minus the coil and spark plug wires in the cap) as the Hall sender/G40 Cam position sender, right? Seems easier to me. When/if you did have a Hall sender failure in the 3B distributor, you could use this DIY to change it:
http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheH...istributor.pdf

Or you might have been able to get a hold of one of Rune's (Bruno's) conversion bosses (but it looks like the head needs to be off to be machined):



General G40 Hall Sender Info:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

[rs200]

before that conversation I was driving on distributor, and hall sensor from them.
the problem begin when I was not 100% sure ,that my engine is 100% at perfect timing. I could not make it in perfect timing. always half of teeth was problem. my engine was running good , and everithing was fine , but my mind and knowing that half of teeth go further and engine is not 100%, it hunt me.
than I saw how AAN have that solved on friends car. and decide to change the cilinder head. I bought one. but it must be full rebuilt at machine shop, lot of work, and I don't have big wish to change it , because I still driving that car for every day,and it was "fine". sometimes when I press pedal to metal, than I remind that engine is not 100% timing (half of teeth).
before few weeks I bought one AAN block.. with pump, tensioner and everithing was ready for swap
but what with hall sensor? than I get idea , and go to realise that.

I'm happiest men at Earth !

[rs200]

Good job. However, that was a lot of work.

You do realize that you could have just used the 3B distributor (minus the coil and spark plug wires in the cap) as the Hall sender/G40 Cam position sender, right? Seems easier to me. When/if you did have a Hall sender failure in the 3B distributor, you could use this DIY to change it:
http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheH...istributor.pdf

Or you might have been able to get a hold of one of Rune's (Bruno's) conversion bosses (but it looks like the head needs to be off to be machined):



General G40 Hall Sender Info:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

yes the problem is that head must be off.
beleve me my friend.. distributor hall sensor is not so good like this one is. when you will done this swap , on same engine , at first starting , you will know that something is different, but you could not explain WHAT.
you are happy because you have AAN and don't have problem whit this "simpe" thing.

[rs200]

Fair play, you have put some serious though and effort into that solution, how did you manage to drill the holes square to face of the block/head with the engine in the car? Did you make some sort of rig to hold the drill straight. You must have been very pleased after putting it all together and firing it up.

hahh
to be honest with you my friend.. I was holding the bore machine and look left and right, my girl was looking up and down, when we get 90 degrees , Tina said; now you can drill it... hahah
and we did it 5 time without any problem !

so the point is girl/wife must be with you . LOL

[UrS4boy]

before that conversation I was driving on distributor, and hall sensor from them.
the problem begin when I was not 100% sure ,that my engine is 100% at perfect timing. I could not make it in perfect timing. always half of teeth was problem. my engine was running good , and everithing was fine , but my mind and knowing that half of teeth go further and engine is not 100%.

Was it not possible to twist/adjust/rotate the 3B distributor body to adjust away what you thought was half a (belt) tooth?

It just seems like a lot of work when a simpler solution is there already.

Hope it works out for you.

[varia]

nicely done, however im not sure if its worth the effort.
I would just swap an aan head and drink a beer.

[rs200]

Was it not possible to twist/adjust/rotate the 3B distributor body to adjust away what you thought was half a (belt) tooth?

It just seems like a lot of work when a simpler solution is there already.

Hope it works out for you.

I know what you mean, but it is not so easy. do you think that I didn't try this?
when moving distributor further for half of teeth, engine don't run good, 1mm more and check engine was ON.

I bought one AAN head but than have to refresh head it cost 200-230euro + head bolts 40 euro + head gasket 20 euro and what we have 260 euro of unnecessary costs . don't forget that my 3B head is full rebuilt before 2 years.
this conversation which I done now , cost me only for new water pump , 35 euro.
and what is more important than money is experience that I done something new and it works.
sometimes knowledge worth more than money. am I right?

[K Simmonds]

sometimes knowledge worth more than money. am I right?

Yes, very much so. I understand your reasons for going about the conversion the way you have, having a rebuilt 3B head in place on a good running engine, why open it up again and spend 300 odd Euro's on a recon AAN head and parts. Plus you have to drill the block anyway. Still that's a brave way of going about it, when I am building (I work in construction as well as mechanics) we use that method of eyeing the drill with two people to get as straight as hole as is possible. Not sure I'd trust it for a mechanical application, your girl must have a good eye's!!!