AAN Crank Locking Tool

[geneandbolly]

does anyone have one for sale?

cheers,

craig

[martinws]

Iv got a homemade one that i used on my ABY. Fairly easy to make, if you are doing the belt make absolutely sure you change the bottom pulley and torque it to the right amount.

[geneandbolly]

excuse my ignorance, martin - is this the tensioner pulley you're talking about? i'll need to get the belt etc done before i come out with you lot - i reckon that there might be some harsh driving going on out there!!!

just called ayr audi for a price on a timing belt and ignition leads for the s6 they don't supply the belts any longer and the leads are . . . .wait for it . . ..

£205+vat EACH!!!!!

[geneandbolly]

excuse my ignorance, martin - is this the tensioner pulley you're talking about? i'll need to get the belt etc done before i come out with you lot - i reckon that there might be some harsh driving going on out there!!!

just called ayr audi for a price on a timing belt and ignition leads for the s6 they don't supply the belts any longer and the leads are . . . .wait for it . . ..

£205+vat EACH!!!!!

can anyone recommend a decent set of leads that won't cripple me?? the tub misfires once only when you give it sudden full throttle . .

[Rikki Kitto]

I've got the ABY one, belongs to someone on here but I can't remember who so it's being looked after til I remember

[Kieron20V]

There aren't any leads on the aan. They are direct to plug coils fitted on the head below the 20v turbo cover. Price they quoted you was probably for a coil. You can get replacement boots, which are essentially doing the same job, they can break down and cause weak sparks. Try your favourite member urs4guy misfire troubleshooting.

[andy10v]

Martin is talking about the crank locking tool, it is easy to make one. Correct side pipe with a notch cut in it welded to heavy flat bar if you want an OEM style one, or I just used 2" box section. You can make it lock onto the engine, snub mount ect, or lock of the ground, whatever suits. I like locking it on the engine at TDC like the OEM one.

AAN engine does not have spark plug leads as Keiron says, its coil on plug. (if that is dying, OEM for major £, but probabbly another 20 years of moptoring, or most people upgrade to 1.8/2.0t turbo coil setup which also gets rid of the POS, is much cheaper, and much cheaper coils.

Is your missfire one WOT hard (like the rev limit) or more of a soft hesitation?

If you have a boost leak, it will also hesitate on WOT.

[geneandbolly]

Martin is talking about the crank locking tool, it is easy to make one. Correct side pipe with a notch cut in it welded to heavy flat bar if you want an OEM style one, or I just used 2" box section. You can make it lock onto the engine, snub mount ect, or lock of the ground, whatever suits. I like locking it on the engine at TDC like the OEM one.

AAN engine does not have spark plug leads as Keiron says, its coil on plug. (if that is dying, OEM for major £, but probabbly another 20 years of moptoring, or most people upgrade to 1.8/2.0t turbo coil setup which also gets rid of the POS, is much cheaper, and much cheaper coils.

Is your missfire one WOT hard (like the rev limit) or more of a soft hesitation?

If you have a boost leak, it will also hesitate on WOT.

andy, i'm not sure i'm getting your street chat here.. when i floor it, there is one big backfire when the throttle is pushed to the floor. it never does it if i take the acceleration gradually up and over the 4000rpm mark, only when i plant the boot. i guess i'll have to get it into the garage and have them check it. i'm going to go ahead and get the cambelt etc done on it so might as well get the misfire seen to as well. at least that will save me farting around with leads when it might be something simpler.

many thanks.

[macspring]

Change to some new spark plugs first (NGK) as it is inexpensive to do so, and no harm, to rule them out as the misfire culprit, and then if no luck, get a loan of a good set of spark plug boots, and two POS units to swop in and run to see if it is them rather than the coils.

Also see if you can do these tests / changes yourself or with another members help to save on garage charges and whilst learning more about the car at the same time, all with the forum's help.

Check for boost and vacuum leaks as a matter of course also, it could be someting simple once it's found.

HTH

[geneandbolly]

thanks for your suggestions, chaps. i had previously changed the spark plugs but still the big misfire when giving it full throttle.

can anyone send me a link where i can find these cheaper coil packs, please?

cheers

[martinws]

The pulley I was talking about is the actual cog on the crank shaft that the timing belt runs on, it is prone to sheering off and is considered reckless to not change it with the belt. Make 100% sure that the correct torque settings are used as this is the major cause for the pulley to sheer. Most garages would probably just crank it up by hand which won't be tight enough.

I have one spare POS here as well as another 2 on the way for spares so I can give you them to try out.

I'm not sure the best place for coil packs.

I actually have had an intermittent misfire recently when masking the throttle.

[geneandbolly]

The pulley I was talking about is the actual cog on the crank shaft that the timing belt runs on, it is prone to sheering off and is considered reckless to not change it with the belt. Make 100% sure that the correct torque settings are used as this is the major cause for the pulley to sheer. Most garages would probably just crank it up by hand which won't be tight enough.

I have one spare POS here as well as another 2 on the way for spares so I can give you them to try out.

I'm not sure the best place for coil packs.

I actually have had an intermittent misfire recently when masking the throttle.

that's cos you run that thing on rocket fuel!!!

thanks for all the info, martin - i have no idea what the abbreviations refer to, i'm afraid
what is a POS? i've heard that the crank pulley needs to be torqued up to 450nm - sound about right to you?

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

thanks for all the info, martin - i have no idea what the abbreviations refer to, i'm afraid
what is a POS? i've heard that the crank pulley needs to be torqued up to 450nm - sound about right to you?

Alright Sir,how ya hanging Hope this helps you mate!

Crank pulley torque from memory, i think it's 200nm torque plus 180 degrees.

The POS stands for power output stages.Of the top of my head There are 2 POS. Upstream of the POS is the cars ECU (computer) deciding when to fire the POS from information retrieved from sensors around the engine. Each POS provides a signal/energy to each coil in turn in the engines cylinder firing order sequence of 12453 via the coil loom .

I remember you said there were no cracks in your coil wires so that rules out possible arcing interruption of the spark which would cause a misfire. It's good you have done the spark plugs so that rules them out. Before you go any further i would borrow as offered by Martinws, his POS.

It is quite common for the Tiny terminals in the POS to break because of heat cycling ( heat cycling means hot and cold as you turn on the engine it runs and gets hot and when turned off goes cold thousands of time during it's life). Each POS has 3 channels (tiny soldered wires for want of simplification) and one of these breaks causing misfires.

So change over them before you do anything else as genuine coil packs are silly prices. In the mean time do what i did and try and find spare coil packs with a good original loom.

Hope that helps mate

[geneandbolly]

thanks for all that info, mark. so those POS things are physical devices that plug into the gubbins under the bonnet somewhere??

martin, i'd be grateful of a local expert's help in this matter!
perhaps if i pop up to see you, you could show me this crank locking tool
and that sprocket you're talking about?

[Rikki Kitto]

If ya need new POS units mine will be for sale soon as I'm doing the coil conversion