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i know i have put this info up here somewhere, but i cannot find it. oh well. just a little addition to the new forum, to get things kicked off....
how to make your own coilover setup.
So i have been getting many many questions about the coilovers i made, such as part numbers, where, what style, etc. i do not mind answering these questions for everyone, but maybe if i put down the EXACT part numbers i used here, everyone will know them. please, these are the only ones i have any experience with. while i truly do not mind helping out, this is what i did and it worked out for me. so i do not know about the other cars, etc, as i have no idea with them.
from what i understand, this method is roughly the same cost as a GC kit. you still have to weld on the rings with GC as well. but i like self-made stuff, a sense of "ownership" and accomplishment comes with doing it yourself.
the sleeves, perches, and tops i got from www.a1racing.com and the car i did was 1990 Coupe Quattro. i have done 90Q and also B3 80Q as well. they have a 55mm OD strut tube.
this is the tops i used: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12470.aspx
this is the sleeves i used: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12452-h.aspx
this is the perch i used: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12460.aspx
dont forget the set screws for the perch: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12485.aspx
next, being on a budget (sort of: this is funny if you know my project haha) i went to www.Summitracing.com for springs. QA1 is really inexpensive for springs, in some lengths and rates. i did 7" up front, but you will probably want to go 6" as mine does not go really low. and i went 8" in the back.
the front sleeves you need to cut down to fit onto the housing, they are long. the rears are fine as shipped.
i made a set of the rings that i had to weld to the tubes for the sleeves to sit on. i used a standard holesaw, and drill. the ID i made 54mm and cleaned it up with a die-grinder. the OD i made 76mm.
my spring rates are not for you, i can almost guarantee it. but i went 7" x 650 lb front and 8" x 900 lb rear. i have quite a bit of input from others here on what they used, but a general idea is 6" front and 8" rear. the rates is up to you, but most use 350-400 lb all round. mine may be just right for me as i do not run a 5cyl in the car, a lighter 4cyl is in there. i guess it really depends on your use, but mine is drag race only. period. ever.
when you weld the ring to the strut tube, it needs to be perfectly flat. and i only welded the bottom, so i did not have any obstruction in the way of the sleeve. the purpose is so that the sleeve has as much support as possible. no ring for the sleeve can lead to the sleeve splitting out on the weld of the old perch if it is not removed completely. remember this holds the whole weight of the suspension of the car on it.
i took a grinder, and wiped out the factory perches. set up my new rings, and welded them up.
here are some pictures. this should be all you need to get this job done.
the strut housing without the OEM perch.
the parts used. i also did all the subframe and control arm bushings at this time, as well.
so i drill, and start the outer ring.
then move to inner ring, so i can use the same pilot hole.
go back to the outer, and get it deep enough to not need the pilot hole anymore, and finish inner hole.
finish outer hole, and i have two rough perches.
clean out the bore to fit just so over the strut tubes, and clean up outsides as well.
set up the sleeve on the strut housing, so i make sure to get the perch flat all the way around for the sleeve.
weld it up, and viola, a coilover strut housing is made.
here is the completed look of the B3 setup i made. notice the front is a little different. this is because i made my own tie-rods for the front end, and did something a bit different. but doing the front just like the rears is fine.
here is the finished Coupe rear strut.
and the Coupe front strut setup. couple shots.
how to make your own coilover setup.
So i have been getting many many questions about the coilovers i made, such as part numbers, where, what style, etc. i do not mind answering these questions for everyone, but maybe if i put down the EXACT part numbers i used here, everyone will know them. please, these are the only ones i have any experience with. while i truly do not mind helping out, this is what i did and it worked out for me. so i do not know about the other cars, etc, as i have no idea with them.
from what i understand, this method is roughly the same cost as a GC kit. you still have to weld on the rings with GC as well. but i like self-made stuff, a sense of "ownership" and accomplishment comes with doing it yourself.
the sleeves, perches, and tops i got from www.a1racing.com and the car i did was 1990 Coupe Quattro. i have done 90Q and also B3 80Q as well. they have a 55mm OD strut tube.
this is the tops i used: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12470.aspx
this is the sleeves i used: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12452-h.aspx
this is the perch i used: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12460.aspx
dont forget the set screws for the perch: http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12485.aspx
next, being on a budget (sort of: this is funny if you know my project haha) i went to www.Summitracing.com for springs. QA1 is really inexpensive for springs, in some lengths and rates. i did 7" up front, but you will probably want to go 6" as mine does not go really low. and i went 8" in the back.
the front sleeves you need to cut down to fit onto the housing, they are long. the rears are fine as shipped.
i made a set of the rings that i had to weld to the tubes for the sleeves to sit on. i used a standard holesaw, and drill. the ID i made 54mm and cleaned it up with a die-grinder. the OD i made 76mm.
my spring rates are not for you, i can almost guarantee it. but i went 7" x 650 lb front and 8" x 900 lb rear. i have quite a bit of input from others here on what they used, but a general idea is 6" front and 8" rear. the rates is up to you, but most use 350-400 lb all round. mine may be just right for me as i do not run a 5cyl in the car, a lighter 4cyl is in there. i guess it really depends on your use, but mine is drag race only. period. ever.
when you weld the ring to the strut tube, it needs to be perfectly flat. and i only welded the bottom, so i did not have any obstruction in the way of the sleeve. the purpose is so that the sleeve has as much support as possible. no ring for the sleeve can lead to the sleeve splitting out on the weld of the old perch if it is not removed completely. remember this holds the whole weight of the suspension of the car on it.
i took a grinder, and wiped out the factory perches. set up my new rings, and welded them up.
here are some pictures. this should be all you need to get this job done.
the strut housing without the OEM perch.
the parts used. i also did all the subframe and control arm bushings at this time, as well.
so i drill, and start the outer ring.
then move to inner ring, so i can use the same pilot hole.
go back to the outer, and get it deep enough to not need the pilot hole anymore, and finish inner hole.
finish outer hole, and i have two rough perches.
clean out the bore to fit just so over the strut tubes, and clean up outsides as well.
set up the sleeve on the strut housing, so i make sure to get the perch flat all the way around for the sleeve.
weld it up, and viola, a coilover strut housing is made.
here is the completed look of the B3 setup i made. notice the front is a little different. this is because i made my own tie-rods for the front end, and did something a bit different. but doing the front just like the rears is fine.
here is the finished Coupe rear strut.
and the Coupe front strut setup. couple shots.
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