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Audi S2 Avant 1993 L Volcano Black - RS2/GT30/Wagner/Brembo - PROJECT

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  • Audi S2 Avant 1993 L Volcano Black - RS2/GT30/Wagner/Brembo - PROJECT

    Audi S2 Avant 1993 L Volcano Black

    Regrettably selling my S2 which I've owned for circa 11 years (since 13/11/2010). It currently states 2 former keepers on the logbook. The gentleman who owned it before me bought it 26/11/1996 (so he owned it for just over 14 years). Prior to this, it was bought new by an asset management company in 16/09/1993 (which was the date it was first registered). During my ownership its spent nearly the entire time garaged and has covered just over 2k miles total (and has not been driven on the road since 2017). It was also garaged by the previous owner when not in use.

    Since I've owned the car, I've spent over £22'000 on parts (not including the original price of the car). All receipts/invoices are included. As a mechanical maintenance engineer and CNC machinist, my philosophy was always; if it aint broke, replace it for new or rebuild it anyway. The car was running perfectly producing somewhere in the region of 500hp back in 2017 before I decided to pull the engine with the intention of making a few tweaks and going for ~650hp. Unfortunately my circumstances changed drastically not long after this, and since then it has remained in the garage. I've managed to hold onto it since then with the intention of getting it finished, but sadly I'm now letting it go as an unfinished project.

    It's currently indicating 166k miles. It has full service history up to 153k miles, all the original Audi handbook and manuals, both original keys and (I think) all the old MOTs are there.

    I have tried to list everything, but may have missed a few bits out. Bear in mind that nearly all the parts and components to rebuild the engine back to a 500hp spec are included, and most of the replaceable items you'll require (gaskets, seals etc) are also included (new). The main things you'll need to buy in order to finish the car include; piston rings, bottom pulley, cambelt, oil pump and fluids. The rolling shell and transmission is 100% ready to go and requires nothing. It's really just an engine rebuild and you'll have one of the most sorted S2s in the country.

    Good points
    • It's fully HPI clear, and to my knowledge (and according to the previous owner) the bodyshell is completely original and has never had any repairs, welding or paintwork whatsoever. The only paintwork which has been carried out to my knowledge was a respray to both bumpers not long before I bought the car.
    • It remains completely rust free and needs no welding. As you would expect due to its originality, it has a few cosmetic marks around it but a lot of them will mop out. There are only a couple of very small dents.
    • Both front ellipsoids are in excellent condition. One had a new genuine Audi glass fitted as the old one was chipped.
    • All the lower door mouldings were replaced with brand new genuine Audi items (apart from the short ones on the front wings and the rear quarters which I couldn't get).
    Bad points
    Before going onto this, I'll just re-iterate the entire bodyshell is original and has never had paint. So while it does have its flaws, it doesn't have any hidden disasters or previous repairs.
    • Unfortunately the bonnet will need respraying. I tried to flat out a small scratch towards the O/S edge and ended up making a small patch through the lauqer (I haven't attempted to address any other marks on the car before or since).
    • A scratch on the NSR quarter (approx. 20cm length). This was done before I bought the car
    • There is some bare metal on the inner rolled edges of the front wings from stone chipping.
    • The rear bumper is split along its edge from where someone nudged it in a car park - it's not bad, but will need a repair (it would need a fibreglass repair on the inside then respraying).
    • The front bumper has been cut underneath to clear an old intercooler set-up which was mounted in a low position (although the current set-up now wouldn't have foul it). When I bought the car, the bumper was already split underneath and missing a large triangular piece, so it just made sense to cut it out square at the time. Its only noticeable if you look directly at the front of the car from a distance (or look underneath).
    • There are several small marks around the car from where it's been in storage but 95% of these will mop out.

    • All original and standard throughout. Factory black leather with carbon trim. 3 spoke steering wheel is immaculate
    • I had the outer bolsters on the driver's seat retrimmed due to being worn through previously. The repair is pretty good but the leather isn't a perfect match.
    • When I first got the car, I removed the whole air conditioning system. Since you can't get them re-gassed anymore, I felt it was pointless keeping it. In doing so, I meticulously removed the dashboard to convert the heater/blower system to the non-AC set-up and fit the larger glovebox (all this work is photographed and documented). I sourced a new heater box from a non-AC car which I rebuilt (stripped, cleaned, recovered the flaps with foam and fitted a new water matrix). Everything was put back perfectly without leaving a single mark or a missing screw (I know what it's like to have a car where the interior has been ripped out in a hurry and refitted badly - this is not the case here).
    • The milometer didn't work the last time I drove the car, so it's about 50 miles short of the true mileage. I haven't looked into it, but I do have another speedo head in pieces which might be useful for parts.
    • The gauge has peeled on the rev counter, but I have a full set of RS2 white dials (bought new for £200)

    • ABY engine block (stock bore diameter) - all original caps present with stock bolts. The bores will need a fresh hone/deglaze, but should still be within tolerance to rebuild with stock pistons - (and there is a selection of 10 to choose from).
    • ABY cylinder head with 1mm oversized valve seats (original valve seats were machined out, severak small cracks were ground out and welded, valve seat bores re-machined and replaced for the highest quality Serdi seats available). The head is now in excellent condition but needs building.
    • New valve seals, cam oil seal and guides
    • The cylinder head previously fitted is also included but it's probably scrap - I broke through one of the exhaust ports walls while porting it (sore subject). It does give you a useable spare valve train and pair of ABY cams though.
    • Aronmatic H-section forged rods
    • Main bearing shells (KS racing), (have done 2k miles but are again perfectly good to reuse)
    • ARP head studs and sport quattro washers (ARP studs are fully reusable unlike normal head bolts)
    • 2 sets of stock ABY pistons (can choose the best 5 to use if you want)
    • ABY crank (all original journals sizes which are still within factory spec)
    • ABY oil pump (I would personally replace this for a new one, if you can find one)
    • Stock ABY cams
    • INA lightweight hydraulic lifters
    • All nuts and bolts, brackets, mounts, sensors etc required to refit the engine are included. All the decorative and non-load bearing bolts have been replaced for stainless steel.

    • KS Racing sputter coated big end shells - I dry fitted these to check clearances which are all spot on. The old shells had some signs of wear after 2k miles so they were binned.
    • Victor Reinz multi-layer compression reducing steel head gasket (8.57:1 spec)
    • Victor Reinz sump gasket kit
    • FAI sump gasket (an extra one is required for fitting the windage tray)
    • Ajusa exhaust manifold gasket
    • Febi cam chain
    • Camshaft oil seal
    • X20 Febi valve guides
    • X20 Valve stem oil seals
    • X4 new oil filters (I liked to keep plenty spare and replace them frequently)

    • Garrett GT3076R Turbo (freshly rebuilt with uprated bronze bearing cages) - still in the wrapping from the turbo shop with balance sheet attached
    • Wagner front facing inlet manifold
    • Wagner T3 cast exhaust manifold (flange has been offset machined and ground flat. This enables you to fit the turbo directly to the manifold without a gasket)
    • Wagner front mount intercooler and custom made stainless steel crossmember
    • Full 3 inch turbo back custom made stainless steel exhaust system and downpipe using 1.5mm T304 tube from Ferarri tubing in Dorset
    • Stainless steel centre box and back box (I forget where from, but not cheap). The sizes of each box where copied from Miltek's RS2 system (in truth they could have been bigger).
    • TFSI pencil coils on custom made loom (approx 200 miles use)
    • Stock Bosch Motronic ECU - socketed with 4 bar map sensor. Mapped by PRJ with launch control and flat shift (last tuned in 2014 with the exact specification/parts list currently advertised).
    • Bosch EV14 injectors
    • RS4 MAF (currently mapped with this set-up)
    • K&N cone filter
    • All necessary boost hoses included which are all high quality 5-ply (ASH or Samco)
    • All turbo feed/drain pipes for the GT30 set-up are included, which are high quality braided stainless
    • Custom made oil breather/catch can

    • ABY sump (vapour blasted)
    • 7A cam cover, machined to accept pencil coils and bespoke CNC Audi embossed breather cap
    • Brand new AKmotorsport solid billet engine mounts (I found the original ones had torn in half when taking the engine out)
    • Roose motorsport water hoses in black (complete kit)
    • Stock rad with plastic headers - in good condition and never once overheated with this set up
    • Mocal 13 row oil cooler on custom made bracket. Unfortunately one of the main union threads is damaged which may render the cooler scrap. When I unscrewed the fir-tree union from the cooler it ripped off parts of the thread (I should have applied anti seize grease to the threads on assembely).
    • Brand new push fit fir-tree oil cooler unions and 3/8 flexi pipe; I bought these new so I could replace the old unions which had become dull/corroded (unfortunately the quality of the plating is very poor). The original unions and pipes I made previously are supplied so you can just copy them when you put it back together.
    • Aux rad in good condition (was a spare that I didn't use)
    • X3 power steering pumps - one of these was fitted to the car and works perfectly, the other 2 need rebuilding
    • Cambelt tensioner roller and water pump
    • Refurbished short engine loom (recovered with new loom tape).
    • Stock wastegate and spring - overhauled and aluminium parts have been aqua blasted
    • Water rail has been sleeved with billet aluminium where they corrode at the main spigot
    • Main cast engine mounts, water rail and alternator mount aqua blasted

    • RS2 hubs front and back - sand blasted and repainted with POR15 2k urethane (aka Hardnose) paint.
    • New Genuine Audi wheel bearings all round (cost over £100 each)
    • CGR 6 speed gearbox (in great condition) on 034 track density mounts - linkage has been aqua blasted and rebuilt)
    • Sach organic race clutch (very nice to use and never slipped at over 500hp) - still in very good condition.
    • Stock 7A flywheel with forged 12.9 high tensile bolts
    • CV joints stripped, cleaned and rebuilt with new bearings and grease
    • Original driveshafts - have been blasted and repainted with stone chip (I ran out of POR 15 at the time)
    • New Genuine Audi clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and flexable linkage pipe

    • Bilstein rear dampers and Koni adjustable fronts
    • H&R (30mm?) lowering springs front and back
    • Front and rear subframes, hubs, wishbone arms, struts and ARBs have been blasted and painted with POR15 2k urethane (aka Hardnose) paint.
    • Every bush is polyurethane (Powerflex or Superflex) APART FROM the rear subframe and both ARBs (I couldn't get these at the time)
    • 034 solid front top mounts
    • New metal ARB drop links
    • Cast front wishbone arms
    • Steering rack was replaced with one I sourced from a 40k mile car
    • Track rod ends and bottom ball joints replaced
    • Diff and gearbox mounts have been aqua blasted

    (the rear end was rebuilt most recently and the car was only road tested for approx. 50 miles after completing the work)
    • Porsche 997 mono-blocks front and back (on custom made CNC brackets). These were removed from a 2 year old write off 997 when I got them, they are almost like new
    • Porsche 997 330mm drilled and vented front discs (2k miles old) - can't remember the brand of the discs, may have been Brembo
    • Brand new OE spec RS2 rear discs
    • Brand new Genuine Audi RS2 handbrake cables (I believe these were the last pair when I bought them).
    • The entire handbrake assembly has been rebuilt with new shoes and various bits from design 911. It's currently set up perfectly, so unlike most RS2s it actually works very well!
    • Goodridge braided stainless steel hoses all round (only road tested since new)
    • Genuine Porsche Cup1 RS2 alloy wheels - freshly refurbished (not even been driven since refurbed)
    • Toyo proxes T1R tyres - fronts are brand new (never driven) rears are near new (about 6mm of tread)
    • Alloy wheel nuts (from design 911) - currently no locking wheel nuts

    Needless to say the car drove and performed incredibly well before. Performance wise, 0-60 was around 4 seconds and it pulled a 2.9 FATS. The brakes work very well, and the suspension and steering is extremely tight. All put back together, it will likely be one of the nicest and most unique Avants left in the country.

    I am regrettably selling in the current state and not as a runnning car in all it's glory. However on the plus side, if your intention is to put it back together, you will have the peace of mind that the engine has been built your own standard without the risk of any nasty surprises you can have with a running car. As already mentioned, there is very little money to spend if you want to rebuild it to the previous specification (providing you can do the work yourself, otherwise please consider the cost of labour).

    I'm prepared to ship or export anywhere in the world at the buyer expense, so please ask for a quote if you’re interested. Forum rules state I must include a price, but I really have no idea what it's worth. I'll say 15k as an optimistic guess, but I'm open to any sensible offers. I'm not looking for a quick sale, but I do need it gone fairly soon. Currently its not advertised anywhere else. I am NOT prepared to break it due to time, but if you want to buy and break it yourself that's fine by me. Car is located in Ferndown, Dorset.

    I'm not on here regularly, so please contact me via email: and leave a phone number if you want to have a proper chat. I'm also happy to give some technical support after selling (should you need it). Needless to say, please no timewasters.

    Thanks for looking
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    Last edited by twenty valve; 8 October 2021, 10:35.

  • #2
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    • #3
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      • #4
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        • #5
          Please ask for any more pictures or details and I will post them as a reply


          • #6
            PM sent , Thanks


            • #7
              Bargain GLWTS
              91 Modded 3B
              14 A6 Avant Black Edition


              • #8
                BUMP - Still for sale, now with an excellent condition uncracked ABY head included.

                Apologies to the private messages I've missed. I've neglected to log into the forum for the past 2+ months. I've since updated the advert to state that should anyone be interested, please contact me via email at


                • #9
                  Bargain there for someone
                  Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                  Indigo ABY coupé
                  Imola B6 S4 Avant


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Error404 View Post
                    Bargain there for someone
                    Thanks mate. I do feel it's a fair valuation. I've seen a couple of avants come up for sale recently, and using their asking prices as a guide to value mine (if it was running with the supplied parts) I think it would be worth around 20k.
                    Last edited by twenty valve; 7 October 2021, 17:29.


                    • #11
                      Bump - making this available again

                      Just as a teaser; a few old pics here which were taken in 2017 (a few days before the engine was pulled).
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by twenty valve; 7 October 2021, 17:50.