You can change the style the forum displays by selecting your preferred style at the bottom left of the site.
We have made an enhancement so that old threads should now link from search results to the correct thread. This is not yet in place for single post links
Question like that, what is the stock vaccuum the diverger valve needs to open ? 1.3 bar
You need to do some review of what vaccum means in Bars.
A strong throttle off vacuum on an AAN (for example) is around 22 inches of mercury (Hg). This is only about 0.745 Bar. The diverter valve should be open way way before that, like 5 inches of Hg or about 0.16 Bar (don't quote me on that but it will be a very small amount of vacuum).
Now it's on to sorting the last little bit of wiring. My cooling system isn't operating correctly yet and a few gauges aren't reading properly either. Should be easy from here on out though!
Thanks for the info Andy! I was thinking of possibly running some kind of one way check valve in the vacuum line to keep it from opening under vacuum but still pressurize the BOV under boost.
Motronic is not designed to run an atmospheric blow off valve, it should recirculate. At idle engine vacuum pulls the diverter valve open and then the MAF is not metering the airflow into the engine and will not fuel correctly.
You can fit a stiffer spring to prevent idle pulling it open, but soft enough when you lift off boost it will open, you will still get incorrect afr when you do that as air that has been measured into the system is now lost.
I would just set it up as per OEM.
Or pressure mount the maf and live map, or switch to speed density if you really want it to go whoosh.
Good news I figured out the source of the problem! It was the damn Vortech BOV and the vacuum line running to it. Soon as they undid the vacuum line the car runs perfectly fine! Anyone know why this would be or do I just need to not run the vacuum line to the top of the BOV considering it just vents to atmosphere and not back into the intake.
Clean the maf connector terminals, both male and female contacts, with 1000 grit wet and dry and coat them with silicon dielectric grease.
Check or replace the white temp sensor on the back of the head.
The car is still in the middle of the engine swap. I have it in the garage on blocks so I can't test drive it. And I was able to check the 02 with the multimeter and the FPR with a gauge. I know it's Rich from all the gas fumes in the garage when it's running with the MAF plugged in and and the amount of voltage then it's reading when terminals 1 and three are jumped with a multimeter
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Leave a comment: