Audi 90 B3 Quattro Special Edition 292/700 RU

Looks quite sharp sir, that LY6T is a lovely colour too, I've rarely seen any sort of blue B3 or 4 sedan.

What type front hubs did you use, also B5? Did the (2 x 25mm?) front spacers plus the ball-joint shift, yield just an additional 34mm axle width due to less wheel offset and/or perhaps hubs?

Were the solid sub-frame bushes to also raise the car or just replace the stock bushings?

Perhaps the increased top-mount height would also suit Canadian winters? I've spent some effort raising both ends of mine.

So, next is mud-flaps, and perhaps a skid-plate?

Speaking about subframes - I've welded solid metal bushes instead of stock rubber-metal-****** ones, which don't go well (half of an year in Russian conditions). Also that was mede to improve the car handling. Their height is quite the same as stock. Just made from metal and don't move up or down, left right, forward backward and so on...

Looks quite sharp sir, that LY6T is a lovely colour too, I've rarely seen any sort of blue B3 or 4 sedan.

What type front hubs did you use, also B5? Did the (2 x 25mm?) front spacers plus the ball-joint shift, yield just an additional 34mm axle width due to less wheel offset and/or perhaps hubs?

Were the solid sub-frame bushes to also raise the car or just replace the stock bushings?

Perhaps the increased top-mount height would also suit Canadian winters? I've spent some effort raising both ends of mine.

So, next is mud-flaps, and perhaps a skid-plate?

Thanx, I love this color too, but thinking about so popular Nardo Grey.
Hubs...Stock hubs are 8A0407615. That is because of 1991th model year.

After conversion:
Front hubs are 8D0407615E. 25mm spacer on each side (because of hub's offset -4mm). Relocated ball joint. Strut bearing is custom made from 2110 Lada (sealed bearing with a lot of rubber around it).
Rear hubs are 8D0501653B. No spacers, just the offset of hub (+8mm). Stock ball joint. Strut bearing is like the front one.

Mud flaps, and light bar from rally car are coming soon))))

[Lago Blue]

Looks quite sharp sir, that LY6T is a lovely colour too, I've rarely seen any sort of blue B3 or 4 sedan.

What type front hubs did you use, also B5? Did the (2 x 25mm?) front spacers plus the ball-joint shift, yield just an additional 34mm axle width due to less wheel offset and/or perhaps hubs?

Were the solid sub-frame bushes to also raise the car or just replace the stock bushings?

Perhaps the increased top-mount height would also suit Canadian winters? I've spent some effort raising both ends of mine.

So, next is mud-flaps, and perhaps a skid-plate?

Finally I did the hubs swap
filedata/fetch?id=2036419&d=1535324710&type=thumb
Really like my fresh setup!
So the front axle width is now +34mm and the rear axle is +16mm
Clearance is bit higher because of my new strut bearings. But this is not a problem, I would rather say that it is a must have option for Russian roads.
Camber 2.1 front and 1.8 rear.
filedata/fetch?id=2036418&d=1535324710&type=thumb

Nail,

Looking forward to hearing your impressions of your new top-mounts sir, they look like they could easily be up to the job (Russian roads!) If they work well enough I can quit making my fix for the latest Boges/Sachs!

4th of September I am going to start the trip (2500km) through my country. The result would be written here.

[Lago Blue]

Nail,

Looking forward to hearing your impressions of your new top-mounts sir, they look like they could easily be up to the job (Russian roads!) If they work well enough I can quit making my fix for the latest Boges/Sachs!

Installed 5x112 front hubs and changed front brakes (discs and pads), upper strut bearings.
A4 B6 forged wheels are sitting rather nice!
Left - new bearings. Right old original ones.
filedata/fetch?id=2036047&d=1535092255&type=thumb
Ferodo discs with slotting. Also 25mm spacer on them.
filedata/fetch?id=2036046&d=1535092255&type=thumb
Wheels fitting
filedata/fetch?id=2036045&d=1535092255&type=thumb
And one more.
filedata/fetch?id=2036048&d=1535092255&type=thumb

Why you painted yelow blende cornenrs in red. You can use b4 avant outers
Nice work

That was such an experiment. Yes I can use B4 Avant ones of course.

[valukonis]

Why you painted yelow blende cornenrs in red. You can use b4 avant outers
Nice work

Finished with ball joints.
Moved forward 20mm.
Installed my plates.
filedata/fetch?id=2035395&d=1534492632&type=thumb
Drilled couple of holes 10mm diameter. Installed ball joints.
filedata/fetch?id=2035394&d=1534492632&type=thumb
Made some adjustments with camber and toe angles.
filedata/fetch?id=2035396&d=1534492632&type=thumb
The wheel in the arch BEFORE
filedata/fetch?id=2035398&d=1534492632&type=thumb
The wheel in the arch AFTER
filedata/fetch?id=2035397&d=1534492632&type=thumb
Works nice, handling is much more interesting than it was.

And I've forgotten about struts upper bearings, which don't work well on russian roads. So I did a custom ones from very popular manufacturer - Lada.
These ones made from similiar upper parts of Lada 2110, but machined a bit to fit our chassis. Nice solid constriction.
filedata/fetch?id=2035140&d=1534241482&type=thumb
filedata/fetch?id=2035141&d=1534241482&type=thumb

Several updates.
New rims.
OEM A4 B6 Forged monoblocks. Rather lightweight, solid rims. Decided to paint them into graphite gloss color.
filedata/fetch?id=2035133&d=1534241482&type=thumb
filedata/fetch?id=2035134&d=1534241482&type=thumb
Also bought brake set:
Rear discs Ferodo DDF1709. Custom made slotting after buying. 6 slots.
Front discs Ferodo DDF1706. Custom made slotting after buying. 6 slots too.
Front pads Ferodo FDB590
Rear pads Ferodo FDB222
filedata/fetch?id=2035137&d=1534241982&type=thumb
filedata/fetch?id=2035138&d=1534241982&type=thumb
Made a ball joint positioner to move ball joint to the front of wheel arches (20mm distance).
filedata/fetch?id=2035135&d=1534241901&type=thumb
Looks like the hub will poke out 4.8mm
filedata/fetch?id=2035136&d=1534241908&type=thumb

Nail,



a) Hard to see in the photo (borrowed from someone on motorgeek, thanks BTW), note how pin center is more off-set from top LH hole center between these two joints. Determine which you have; and if the other would be helpful; and/oR

b) Sounds as though you are perhaps using the B4 A/R bar, correct? If yes, it may be your arms are installed inadvertently reversed, something that is less likely when using the B3 type A/R bar. If yes, then a different wheel position may result.

c) Hopefully, just a switch-around of your two current ball-joints will be enough.

d) You should see my Russian!

Can't see the pic at all.

[Lago Blue]

audi 90 3-bolt ball-joints pin offsets.png

Nail,

a) Hard to see in the photo (borrowed from someone on motorgeek, thanks BTW), note how pin center is more off-set from top LH hole center between these two joints. Determine which you have; and if the other would be helpful; and/oR

b) Sounds as though you are perhaps using the B4 A/R bar, correct? If yes, it may be your arms are installed inadvertently reversed, something that is less likely when using the B3 type A/R bar. If yes, then a different wheel position may result.

c) Hopefully, just a switch-around of your two current ball-joints will be enough.

d) You should see my Russian!

These are my arms set btw:
12.9 tough bolts.
filedata/fetch?id=2032661&d=1531473125&type=thumb
Arms. Top - fronts B4. Bottom - rear B3 Quattro ones (front B3 with rear B3 ball joints in fact).
filedata/fetch?id=2032662&d=1531473125&type=thumb
With mounted ball joints and welded sides.
filedata/fetch?id=2032663&d=1531473125&type=thumb
And one more pic.