My Pelican blue 80

[mdz]

Here's how adapter harn(m)ess looks at the moment:



Illumination partly fixed. Everything illuminates but automatic brightness works in completely opposite - it dims when I cover light sensor

Also one more nice addition to car:



3 button flipblade key from Allroad. Did some coding with vagcom and now car locks and unlocks with remote
Now i have to get uncut blade for it. Anyone knows - is HAA blade itself available new from Audi? Locksmith said that cheap ones available on ebay are imprecise crap and suggested to avoid them.

[mdz]

It should fit as cluster size on typ89 and typ8c are the same. Also there's no real reason to use C5 diesel cluster, B5 and/or petrol can be used too. I had this cluster in shelf for a while so i used it.
I made adapter wiring harness so original wiring is left untouched. Don't have any pictures of it yet but since adapter harness is only in some sort of alpha stage, I'll take some when I'll be working on it next time.
There's few major issues with fitting this c5 cluster:
- illumination. b4 cluster has brightness potentiometer built in, c5 has it external so no illumination in cluster itself (needles illuminates) and on everything with variable brightness (climate, aux gauges, cigarette lighter etc). can be sorted by adding potentiometer.
- I've heard that C5 cluster reads fuel tank level opposite than B4/B5 but have to confirm this as gauge shows about the right amount of fuel in tank. I've drove it only ~10km and have to drive more to see which way needle will "drop".
- oil gauge/warning. According to this 2000 A6 has oil temp AND oil level sender in oil pan and they are connected to cluster with single wire so oil sender warning will be up on display all the time if they aren't fitted. have to think how to fool it. This can be coded out in Golf IV cluster, but I have no idea about C5.
- there was no 5cyl engines on C5 (not actual for me though). VAGCOM label files also does not show coding for 5cyl engines and this can lead to inaccurate rev counter reading. Have to confirm this also.
- will be an issue to those don't have access to vagcom - cluster must be coded to your engine fuel type/cylinder count and adapted to use signals from separate wires (speed, engine revs etc) not from CAN bus otherwise it won't show anything.
Less hassle is to use B5 petrol cluster with analog clock.

[PRY4SNO]

I like that as an option, it frees up two gauges (oil temp & voltage) in the centre console on the B3 coupe... I wonder if the C5 A6 diesel cluster will fit the typ89 as well?

Were there any wiring challenges? Any pics of the process to share?

[mdz]

They are not identical, but very close and can be made to fit good. It's not completely in in picture. I'll dig out spare dashboard I have somewhere and check what has to be modified.

[Error404]

So is the C5 cluster a good fit into the B4 dash?

[mdz]

Was a bit bored today



2000 A6 C5 diesel cluster in B4. Still got few issues to sort out, but main things are working.
I'm not sure I'll keep it. I love its big display, digital clock and odometer, but I prefer grey clocks S2 cluster has.

[@ndy]

Super impressed with the amount of work going into this! Keep it up!!

[vonbeck]

nice work there lots of nice upgrades keep up the good work and keep those photos coming

[mdz]

Black door pull triggers are in to-do list for long time. I've already tried to vinyl wrap them, but result was awful. Also got original black triggers from S6+ but turned out there's no way to fit them into B4 so I gave them to my father for his A6.
I think super/turbo charging this engine is not worth it. It's good as it is and swapping 1,8t will cost me less time and money + it has nice potential for upgrades Last summer I took engine head off and it was like new inside, no signs of wear at all and it goes really good for its power.
I'd like to get Cabrio radio but I haven't seen them for sale here so I got original Audi Beta to use it till I get something better.



While waiting for left skirt to be repaired (it has a crack), I fitted right one on today.
Took off plastic trim and what's that? Holes are already there even on regular fwd 2,0



These nuts are going inside the holes. 8 on each side



Now under the body. Yes, holes are already there



Covered by these



These rings are going in holes. 4 on each side. They are NLA for B4, but B5 S4 has almost the same rings (thanks to Skull and Saltinot for confirming this) and still available. Bought more than necessary as suggested in thread I posted while ago as they can be broken easily.



Little bit of surgery



And they're in. Fits perfectly



These covers has to pushed through rings and turned by ~45° to lock. Same part for B4 and B5 S.



S2 skirts has their own upper plastic trim. S2 at the top, standard 80 at the bottom



Attached with double sided tape



And it's on





S2 also has their own (well, door parts are shared with b3 90) lower bumpstrips. I'll use standard 80 strips for a while and then get S2 ones later. Last time I checked they were available new.
Rear bumper and middle strips are off and being prepared for painting. Should be ready in next week or two as I have few more things to do.

[macspring]

Inspiring work and good information, black stitching on the steering wheel, IMHO.

Radio, use an oem Delta radio from a late model Cabrio, and the matching centre console, where the radio slot is slightly wider than normal DIN size.

As you are into details, consider having your four chrome door pull triggers sandblasted and powder coated black, like RS2 door pulls.

Keep up the good works, and posting photos in the thread.

Engine wise, amongst your choices think of a Rotrex charger on your existing engine ?

Kind regards.

[mdz]

Thanks
I'm not planning on any other colored accents so I think I'll stick with black.
Took a few pictures with new interior today. All doorcards and A, B, D pillars are retrimmed.







Headunit died for no reason, it's just not working anymore, so blanking plate fills it's place now. I think it's a sign I need to buy proper headunit with dsp





Those light spots are just dirty camera lens





After quick wash few days ago (right side of bonnet is not fully closed)



Just to make life easier - 16pin OBD output under rear ashtray



Random shot. My 80 and dads A6.



In next few days I'll prepare rear bumper, tank flap, door handle, door bump strips for painting and give them to paint shop.
Still waiting for 3£ worth of tiny parts to fit sideskirts.

[PRY4SNO]

Seriously impressive project! My vote is 1.8t for your motor swap.

Red stitching might look out of place unless you have some other red accents you can see in the daytime. Blue would be obvious from the exterior colour, but look lonely without anything else to compliment it... like floor mats, shift boot, etc.

Keep up the updates!

[mdz]

Since my 80 is now back on the road after 4 months of standing, I thought I should update this thread.



Main thing I've done is climate control installation. It's not fully completed yet - compressor with bracket and front radiator is missing so no cold air at the moment. Problem is, that I need to get compressor with bracket from ABT or ABK engine, but AC is quite rare option on these engines and since I'm planning on engine swap later I don't bother to find it.



Got AC box, control unit, wiring and plumbing from one V6 coupe, underdash wiring from another V6 coupe and two speed fan wiring from V6 avant. I had 3 speed fan wiring from S2, but fan wires was too short since I5 engines has it on left side not at the front.
Also swapped over climate control unit light filter from C4 A6 so now it illuminates in red not orange. Still can't find CCU surround in Nussbaum wood.



Safety belts from B5 A4. Why?

- they came from '98 RHD car so drivers side must be less worn and working better
- to get rid of procon ten cables (I don't have them on steering wheel anyway)
Old at the top, "new" at bottom



Almost complete OEM equipment. Have to get fire extinguisher (i have one, but it's old and needs to be replaced) and hook for removing wheel caps (it's already ordered as well as retaining parts for sideskirts). I'll try to find leather case and better books.



OEM rear roller sunblind



Central locking system from late '97 S6. It has two vacuum lines and it can be programmed via vagcom. It's connected and working, just need to recode it properly (remove unnecessary features, add some other features and change it's working direction). I'll get flipkey type radio keyfob later and try to get it working.



Took apart front seats.

and found these inside



1950 1 Mark and 1962 2 Pfenning. It's an old German money.

Common problem on these seats - after years of use welds at the base comes loose.



So I gave them to welder to fix it.



Laundry day



And putting them together



Looks like that's it for now. Still got tons of work to do, but since car is at home now and weather is getting better, I can work on it more often.

Also need your opinion - I'll give my steering wheel to retrim it as it's leather is worn but what to do with stitches? Leave them black to match rest of interior, use blue thread to match car color or use red thread to match dashboard illumination?

[arts]

Nice topic

[mdz]

HAA key parts came from 96. C4, managed to find almost full set of keys - main key, service key, plastic key, immo unit and keyring with immo login code on it. Only second "main key" is missing. It's not flip key but it shouldn't be hard to find flipkey housing and swap the blades.
Conversion is easy. Follow THIS guide to replace ignition barrel (as it's only the barrel that needs to be replaced) and be sure to use back part of barrel from your car. That part is straight fit but may need some work with file to fit perfectly. In the center of picture:



For door cylinders you must get cylinder itself and grab handle as the hole for cylinder with HAA key is bigger. This is straight swap.
I haven't seen this mod done elsewhere so I just got the parts and did it