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RichLV's UrS4

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  • RichLV's UrS4

    Hey guys! New member here, although I've been reading through some of the threads for some time.

    Wanted to show off my 1992 URS4 Saloon. I'm the owner since 27th January.



    The car is pretty banged up and requires attention. I've been doing things slowly and it's starting to get better but still a lot of work remains.

    The package is fairly standard for an S-type car:
    - 2.2 20vt
    - Quattro ofc
    - Climate control
    - Lens headlights
    - Trip comp, autocheck
    - 4 electric windows and heated side mirrors

    Good thing that I got it already remade for TFSI coils and HP2 front brakes. Also, when looking at shocks I noticed that it packs some cool Eibach lowered springs - EW 1515001VA.

    When I got it, it was leaking horribly, all the fluids except petrol were leaking. Some parts and hours later it was fixed, and also switched to Vacuum brake booster, since the hydraulic one was living it's own life. The worst thing about the car is that it doesn't have AAN block anymore, some *******s thought it would be a cool idea to bolt AAN head to 3B block. Block swap is planned to return the AAN block and do some head work in the mean time.

    I will have a lot of questions for 20vt gurus here
    Last edited by RichLV; 22nd October 2016, 10:44.

  • #2

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    • #3
      Welcome fellow Latvian We like pictures, the more the better
      '93 Audi 100 Avant - R.I.P
      '92 Audi UrS4 Avant - SOLD
      '93 Audi UrS4 Avant LPG

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      • #4
        Pictures will be incoming shortly. Along with some more details.

        So during these 2 months what has been done:
        - First thing I did was rework the amplifier and sub-woofer wiring. Sub-woofer was connected through a seat heater button, and was being kept ON until I moved the heater wheel to 0. Of course I forgot to do that once and the next day battery was dead. People who do wiring like that should get their fingers cut off. I reconnected it all properly through the REMOTE wire on my radio, throwing a switch in between just in case I need to turn it off fast.



        - Autocheck was constantly shouting that engine was too hot, and the coolant display was going haywire. Replaced the 4-pin coolant sensor with a new Behr 3-pin sensor. Threw a new coolant reservoir in there as well.



        - Rear brakes were almost completely dead. The calipers were completely restored along with braces, brake disks were refurbished and new pads were bought. Just recently I received new Bosch parking brake cables, will install them shortly.



        - The aforementioned leaks. Oil filter mounting was leaking, turbo was leaking coolant, hydraulic brake booster was leaking. All the gaskets around the turbo and oil lines were replaced, and hydraulics were swapped for vacuum.





        Plans for the near future:
        - Inner timing belt cover is missing. Got it just today brand new.


        - Finish with rear brakes.
        - Exhaust has to be remade, it's horrible.
        - Weld left sill, it's rusty and has a hole.
        - Pass annual technical inspection.
        - Replace front shocks, the right one is done.
        Last edited by RichLV; 31st March 2015, 14:17.

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        • #5
          Nice.Welcome to the forum!!
          96 URS6 plus speck saloon
          96 URS6 plus speck estate
          94 2.6 80 Avant
          99 2.8 final edition Cabriolet

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          • #6
            yup, a nice understated car .

            1997 Audi S6 - The Purple Helmet!

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            • #7
              Is it worth to replace standard air filter for a conical one? I have one just lying around, thinking about swapping it in.

              Another thought I have is about oil catch cans. I'm not a big fan of crank air venting back into intake. We have a number of catch cans available here and I'm wondering how are they connected? AFAIK there are 3 ports on the engine - 1 at the back of the valve cover, 1 at the side which vents the air to intake, 1 on the block which is the one letting that air out.
              What happens If I stop air vent back to intake? The connection point is already past the MAF, so I'm guessing it wont influence it's readings?

              Also I'm planning to outfit a 7A valve cover, which only has a vent duct on the back of it. So no venting to intake anyway.
              Last edited by RichLV; 1st April 2015, 18:09.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by RichLV View Post

                Is it worth to replace standard air filter for a conical one? I have one just lying around, thinking about swapping it in.
                No, don't do it. Fitting a new branded paper filter to the oem air box is the best way forward tbh.




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                • #9
                  PCV System Info - including using a 7A cam cover

                  Originally posted by RichLV View Post
                  Also I'm planning to outfit a 7A valve cover, which only has a vent duct on the back of it. So no venting to intake anyway.
                  I am a fan of keeping the OE PCV system in place, in top condition, with a catch can that drains back to the sump, if needed.

                  http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22506.phtml

                  As for the 7A cam cover, the PCV system vent tube that is inside the AAN (and ABY and ADU) cam cover can be handled like this:



                  RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                  94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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                  • #10
                    My set up. Same as per the photo Dave posted. Used hose rather then pipe on the outside of the valve cover.

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                    • #11
                      I've seen these, but the issue here is that I want to get rid of oily vapors in the intake and vent them to atmosphere through a catch can.

                      I've researched the system a bit, and how do people get rid of that 4 way PCV?

                      Catch can choices:




                      First one is 0.5 liters, other two 0.4. Which would be the better choice?
                      Last edited by RichLV; 5th April 2015, 13:15.

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                      • #12
                        I had very little oil if any returning to the intake. I took apart the pcv system and thought I was gonna do some crazy OCC set up but ended up just replacing the Oem valves and left it alone. The Oem system works extremely well when the car is mainly stock.

                        When running more power, if you chose to run a catch can. I would think you could delete the check valve going to the intake manifold and run a straight line to the intake boot with a catch can in the middle. You would need to delete the prv as well. I will post some pics of what I came up with a few months ago. Just give me a bit lol.Easter egg hunting at the moment.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the info and happy easter to ya!

                          I do plan on some increased power, but not much, since the car will be a daily driver. The plan is to do some headwork (same as on my first Audi 80 2.0E) e.g. lightened valves, enlarged intake and exhaust ports, angled valve seats, but not by much, only to a safe level. After that it's definitely a chip. The power has to be compatible with OEM rods and pistons.

                          If I can leave the stock system intact it will be a lot easier, and if with a catch can no oil vapors will be transferred to the intake, then I can leave the stock one, get new hoses and valves from 034 motorsport and leave it at that. Baseline is that I want to get rid of oil in the intake.

                          Oh, and I have some meaner injectors at the garage, previous owner gave them to me, although I don't know how the injector tuning works.

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                          • #14
                            This is my idea I came up with. It deletes both the check valve and the PRV. You would have 2 options either run the vent system under the car and vent to atmosphere. Or you can use a catch can and just empty the can every oil change or so.

                            You would have to get some silicone hose to complete this as there is no Oem hose that deletes the valves.


                            I ran this same style set up on my 2.7T and it worked great. Only issue was it froze in winter and backed up which blew some top end seals.

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                            • #15
                              That's a very elaborate advice, thank you!

                              So I'm connecting the N80 valve directly to intake manifold? If i'm going the catch can option, then it leaves the breather tube to inlet hose? Or I can go with a can and place a little air filter on the breather port on the valve cover (like in this pic)


                              The pros I see with removing the stock PCV system is that there will be less hoses to leak boost, but how will the car perform, since the system is working either vacuum shift or boost shift? How does the system affect running of the car overall?

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