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  • s2driveruk
    started a topic Project unsieze

    Project unsieze

    I've been lucky enough to have had almost 3 years without having to do anything significant on the car but this year I have decided to finally sort out the underside as there is so much slack from a combination or worn bushes and I am expecting cv joints on the propshaft that are well past their prime after 200k miles.

    She's up on 4 axle stands and I'll be doing the following to ger her ship-shape for the now very late MOT unfortunately work is meaning a distinct lack of time...

    Renew diff mounts (done)
    Renew gearbox mounts (done)
    Attempt to source and change propshaft centre bearing (done)
    New cv joints and covers on the propshaft (done)
    Rebalance the prop prior to reinstallation (done)
    change oil seals on the rear differential and fluid
    New pad retainers and pins for the brembo monoblock to hope to stop annoying brake squeal and resonating disc hum once hot (done)
    New rear drop links (done)
    Brake fluid flush (done)
    Goo flush for the steering
    New voltage regulator for the alternator as seems not to be firing correctly under 2000rpm (done)
    Likely another set of front top mounts
    Boost hose refresh as some of the samco's have started to sweat oil (done - thanks Newsh!)
    no doubt a load of stuff i shall uncover on the way!
    rear calipers (done)
    caliper carriers (done)
    new stainless brake flexis rear (done)
    rear pads (done)
    rear discs (done)
    new handbrake cables (sourced)
    new sparkplugs (done)
    rear drop links (done)
    front drop links (done)
    Last edited by s2driveruk; 14th January 2018, 16:32.

  • s2driveruk
    replied
    Nice one, thanks Andy!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty
    replied
    Gemo 402242 & 402243 are the correct length aftermarket, if you can find them.

    Leave a comment:


  • S2central.net
    replied
    Its always the stupid things which give such headaches. Good job sorting that.

    Leave a comment:


  • s2driveruk
    replied
    time to dust this off now that I am largely recovered from my back op at the end of January. Glad to report that it all went pretty well just recovery was much (much!) longer than anticipated.

    Anyway, been starting to sort out the handbrake thanks to a late evening dash to pick them up from Rob on here

    Routing them back up to the bracket was nice and easy but adjustment has been a bit of a faff. New calipers means much more free moving assembly in the calipers and as a result the usual 3 clicks I had before was suddenly a lot more. Ended up having to reset the calipers a few times to get them where they needed to be and then take away the remaining slack on the adjuster. So far, appears to be back to normal. Decent brake bleed and the brakes actually feel really good on a quick trip round the test track.

    Ran the car up to temperature in order to drop oil and filter pre-MOT and noticed the unmistakable stench of hot p/s fluid. Appears that the line from the rack to the pump had been rubbing against the radiator shroud and eventually the plastic shrowd beat the rubber and then s/s braided line resulting in a nice pool of fluid in the casting marks on the side of the block and all over the side of the sump pan and driveway

    Luckily, I did have a spare line which looked to be dry (a first) and solid so set about the blind man feels approach of getting the old one off and routed out from the back of the engine and the new one back in again. I was just about to nip up the banjo on the top of the pump to secure the hose when the dreaded lack of tension told me something was stripped....I ended up with a beautiful coil of metal in the threads of the banjo as they had all stripped off. So yet another relatively simple job consigned to the S2 history books lol Thankfully Alex to the rescue to kindly rebuild it with a undamaged part.

    It did give me the chance to drain down the circuit of fluid which was horribly dark, remove and thoroughly clean the p/s fluid tank and replace the lines which feed it either side as they looked sweaty and tired. The filter in the tank was pretty gunked up too so that was treated to a proper clean and the float on the cap too. Gave the cooler a good looking over as that is starting to have seen better days. Might need to investigate options for a replacement at some point as I can only presume they are long NLA now for the standard part and likely £500 or something

    Leave a comment:


  • s2driveruk
    replied
    totally wrong Andy, I think TRW have mapped the fwd or some other model to the numbers I quoted above, they were miles out.

    Thankfully, I managed to source the correct set from Rob on here and headed up to his place to collect them last night. They are the correct length as compared side by side with the originals.

    Need to be really careful, this number and the E version are critical otherwise you will have incorrect lengths and the wrong terminations on the handbrake arm on the caliper too.

    893 609 721 E / 893 609 722 E

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty
    replied
    D'oh

    Do the important lengths match or are they just wrong?

    What are the numbers?

    Leave a comment:


  • s2driveruk
    replied
    Hmmm decided to try and remove and replace the handbrake cables today. Pulledd of the old ones without too much pain other than the little grommets up by the handbrake itself but they did let go eventually. However, the two new ones are both longer than thos which came off. They appear to be listed as far longer than a xref with an online etka..

    does anyone happen to know if they are still available via audi? Trw numbers do match up but lengths are way out.

    so frustrating. Wanted to put them on and then move the car before op this week. I presume i could park it and chock it leaving it in gear....going to be left for 3 months before i am fit enough to source and then fit tie right ones...

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty
    replied
    Ive got the JR CV joints too. I reused the old boots as they were fine... about the only time I've not spent £££.

    I have had those carriers on my watch list for ages, so good to know they work.

    Are the 3B and ABY cables different?

    Just cleaned and sorted some spare callipers, which I'll fit despite them looking a bit old. Ideally I'll get the old ones refurbished by someone like Bigg Red or the Calliper Specialist, including paint etc. Sourced some Ferodo DS pads being sold off cheap, so the rear will be ok for now. Needs some DS2500s back in my life next.

    Did think a turbo rebuild was due but hoping that it was just 2 bolts being 2mm too long

    Leave a comment:


  • S2central.net
    replied
    Nice one David - I have tripped over my propshaft in the garage once to often - I need to get it refurb'd, shiny, balanced and stored somewhere sensible in readiness for use - sometime year 2021 at my rate !

    Leave a comment:


  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    That's all very helpful. Thanks very much indeed!
    Cheers
    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • s2driveruk
    replied
    Ok, some part numbers (these are specific to the 3B but could well in many cases cross-over to the ABY too:

    Rear caliper carriers (both sides)
    TRW part BDA436 https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/ca...roduct/BDA436/ purchased on ebay for £21 per side and comes complete with slide pins and rubber boots plus an extra set of boots and grease.

    Rear calipers
    Delco Remy exchange units, need to locate the P/Ns but sourced via Andrew Page autofactors in Farnborough, Hants. £230 for the pair with £84 exchange unit return fee

    Handbrake cables 893 609 721 E / 893 609 722 E
    urquattrob on ebay - contact him via the forum: urquattrob81

    Propshaft centre bearing

    Brake hoses rear
    Goodridge Coupe S2 rear pair (stainless, clear sleeved) £45.61 shipped no part number listed

    Propshaft Centre Bearing
    Driveshaft parts Ltd P/N CBA30133 £43
    Last edited by s2driveruk; 29th January 2018, 14:37.

    Leave a comment:


  • s2driveruk
    replied
    Originally posted by Tractor Dave View Post
    Fantastic quality photos and description. Just what I need to do my prop shaft when I start re building my Avant. Thank you very much indeed.
    When you get a chance, would you be able to list the parts you needed and numbers? Also, where do you take a prop shaft to be balanced?
    Good luck with your back. I'm a fellow sufferer to. Hopefully I'm not going down the surgery route just yet!
    Ah, so the story on the prop is a bit convoluted to be honest. I orginally sources a range of parts myself and started the process of refurbing it as per the thread. When I took it for balancing at www.propshaft-services.co.uk they immediately informed me that the cv's I had used on each end were not correct (inner cv joints from a ford) rather than the correct prop cv's. He did say they would work but that they would wear far quicker and also said they were not that good a quality too (hard to disagree as i paid peanuts for them years back!) The UJ howver was spot on and so I left them to sort the propshaft with correct cv's, add on the flat cv covers as I had sourced the incorrect ones which had indentations to enable full-lock extention.

    They refurbed it, balanced it and even repainted it too. cost me £300-ish all in. Not 100% sure on part numbers to be honest for the cv's and boots/covers.

    I will document the rear caliper bits and bobs, let me dig out the part numbers.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    Fantastic quality photos and description. Just what I need to do my prop shaft when I start re building my Avant. Thank you very much indeed.
    When you get a chance, would you be able to list the parts you needed and numbers? Also, where do you take a prop shaft to be balanced?
    Good luck with your back. I'm a fellow sufferer to. Hopefully I'm not going down the surgery route just yet!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty
    replied
    Great work there mate. I've done the prop recently but had a spare used bearing in working order, which I left on my spare prop.

    I need to do the rear brakes next, as mine are dying. Could you post up a list of what you used, please?

    All my bolts and nylocks are stainless now with the poly engine, 'box and diff mounts. It's a little harsher and noisier but so much more controlled and easy to work on. All are standard torque values so shouldn't be any issues with SS.

    Will do rear carriers and callipers then pads all round, likely moving back to ds2500 as others haven't given any improvement.

    Ta

    Leave a comment:

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