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A6 Nogaro Blue TDI restomod

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  • radi_nrj
    started a topic A6 Nogaro Blue TDI restomod

    A6 Nogaro Blue TDI restomod

    Hi everyone, I'm big fan of the mighty AEL and I had FWD 6 speed UrS6 replica for couple of years. But after it got in 2 accidents in less than a month decided that it had to go and started to look for a replacement.
    Then I've found this:






    Nogaro Blue, 6 speed, Quattro loaded with extras. It is easier to list the things it does not have. It is missing Servotronic, Leather electric seats, auto tilting right mirror and I guess that is it.

    The car was originally sold in Germany and as all cars from that region it was not rust free. Probably the first job I had to do was to replace the rusty fuel lines

    and leaky gas tank. Got a replacement from an Italian import and gave it couple of coats of primer just to be safe


    The car had no service history so the mandatory full service of the engine followed



    Than prop shaft bearing, rear diff seals and oil got replaced. Have no pictures from the process but here is some diff oil


    I'm also big fan of the Speedline Avus wheels so:
    16" 7,5J ET37 from UrS6 for the winter set


    18" 8J ET48 from S8 D2 for the summer set


    Both sets were refurbished and as it is a Quattro they both got a matching spare.


    My daughter approved the 18s


    Had to put 15mm spacers in front for the 18s


    There was a dyno day organised at a local shop so I've decided to make a health check:


    After it put out 141hp and 330N/m corrected at the crank I was happy that am driving very good stock car but as you can probably tell from the video title I was wrong.

    Soon after I blew the hose from the turbo to the IC


    and as we are going to disassemble decided to do some stuff it was postponing for no valid reason Intake got cleaned



    EGR blanked


    And all the exhaust manifold gaskets got replaced and I got the chance to use the dyno again to see I that had made any difference (sorry the videos are in Bulgarian, I have to write subs)


    It gained another 15N/m and was picking up power 200rpm sooner

    Than a friend of mine gave me chips with very aggressive mapping as a gift and as I was removing the ECU to install them... Surprise!



    Now those are mixed feelings. The car was remapped in 1996 in MTM probably by Roland Mayer himself. The tune was for 160hp and 315N/m with Cats on and EGR working. My car had the Cats removed before I've bought it and the EGR you saw already. Torque is plenty but we have issue at the top end. Soon I'll try to solve it.
    At least now I have a theme for the build, it will be an MTM tribute

    In the mean time this arrived at a local braker:


    I immediately scavenged the front struts and the HP2 brakes. Another car imported from Germany, rust was plenty


    After sandbasting everything was ready for paint.



    Struts getting a PU coating


    And some fooling around with the calipers






    Lets see how long this finish will last

    It is getting late, will continue tomorrow
    Last edited by radi_nrj; 18th January 2017, 14:30.

  • dodek
    replied

    Hello, I've followed your topic for a long time. I also have Ael. As for your problems with injectors - I recommend the tips of the Polish company WZM - they produce several types: 0.210 -OEM AEL 140hp 0.216 - OEM VW T4 150hp Or larger tuning versions: 0.230 and 0.260. These tips are of good quality and are cheap about 75 PLN / 17 EUR / pcs. https://allegro.pl/kategoria/czesci-...h=seng-v6-b118 My colleague from www.audi-C4.pl has a daily 300hp ael. And this is how is fly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zRI...ature=youtu.be

    Leave a comment:


  • radi_nrj
    replied
    Timing is spot on, checked via VSDS, needle lift sensor works perfect. The engine is very hard to turn by hand and I suspect a bad crank shaft. The crank shafts on the 5cyl diesels are known to twist.

    Leave a comment:


  • 5cylinderman
    replied
    I would suggest check for signal to/from from No.3 Injector lift sensor. The wiring from it is small and every time injectors are removed you risk damaging it. BTDT due to careless injector "specialist".
    Pump timing can be fun on these engines. I wouldn't waste time using a dial gauge in the *** of the pump. Line up the pump marks as per factory, and check with VCDS once run up to temp. Also, disconnect the temp sensor at hot idle and you will hear the engine sound a wee bit different until reconnection.
    On my last C4 (AAT) I ended up with the pump body's marks noticeably "over advanced" whilst VCDS was spot on, and she pulled like a trooper.
    Last edited by 5cylinderman; 25th June 2019, 14:17.

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  • Acki
    replied
    Check the camshaft timing and perform a leaktest (pressure air into the chamber - via glow plug and then check where the air leaves the engine).

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  • radi_nrj
    replied
    finally got the rear S6 brakes on it


    1eedd97116e3b5c9.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • radi_nrj
    replied
    It has been a long time but had some other other things to do and the car was left aside. So we now have one fully refurbished fuel pump, new DTP injector nozzles and the car runs even worse. it does not smoke so much but it lacks even more power. However after almost a year and a half I managed to assemble the rear hubs and at least i'll get the S6 rear brakes fitted before winter (It may lack power but it has to stop )

    in the meantime I'm helping a friend restoring his 2.2T 6 speed manual S4

    Leave a comment:


  • radi_nrj
    replied
    It is always fun with those old cars. Hello white smoke... It is not oil, and it is not coolant. Now lets see which is the culprit. My bets are 80% on the injection pump and 20% on the injectors.



    It ran a 17.2 where it should do16's

    So the injectors and the pump got out. The injectors were sent to a specialit to be refurbished and the pump will be checked when I come back from vacation
    Last edited by radi_nrj; 25th May 2018, 18:17.

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  • radi_nrj
    replied
    I did a 0-200 test and the results look pretty good for 1.7ton car with heavy 18' wheels and tires (the tires are Pirelli P7 225/45 RFT).


    Also did a smoke check, it looks pretty smokeless for a remapped AEL which is good

    Last edited by radi_nrj; 18th April 2018, 08:22.

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  • radi_nrj
    replied
    We have Boost

    And one more grapgh from 1000rpm

    I did a log from 2000 to 4500rpm and you can clearly see how laggy those old engines are, I floor it on 1900rpm and it still spools till 2500rpm

    It was all fun and games for several days tull yesterday when I've noticed white smoke when I accelerate, and this morning 300mL of coolant were missing.

    Now I have another upgrade on my mind - ARP studs and MLS gasket

    Here I was cougnt in action while fixing a friend's UrS6 wiring.
    Last edited by radi_nrj; 12th April 2018, 17:32.

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  • radi_nrj
    replied
    Got everything delivered and now the turbo is installed but still boost only to 0.3Bar. Now we have to check everything, MAP, N75, and all the vacuum lines.


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  • radi_nrj
    replied
    Thanks Acki, I already have one rebuild 6711. it is getting ridiculously hard to maintain those cars, could not find the turbo mounting kit in Bulgaria so I'm waiting for it to be delivered from Latvia...

    Got the new turbo hoses.
    Last edited by radi_nrj; 23rd February 2018, 10:54.

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  • Acki
    replied
    Originally posted by radi_nrj View Post
    However I plan to get rid of the stock K14 6707 and replace it with K16 6711 from Audi 100 2.5, it should be a direct swap. I already bought the K16 but still wonder what to do with it, just rebuild it or upgrade it with a billet compressor wheel.
    You can also use K16-6721. It's much bigger turbo than K14-6707. Compressor and turbine side.
    We used this turbos at Fiat Uno Turbo years ago :-D

    My father has this turbo in his Uno, running around 150hp but more is possible...

    Very robust turbos, do the upgrade to Billet wheel!

    I hope you check the chassis next to the steering rack, is offen broken at the V8 under the "enforcement" sheet.
    Can look for pictures when you need.

    Good luck!

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  • radi_nrj
    replied
    Was is the right word, now they are impossible to find. They have a valve which is activated at around 1800rpm which changes the mount stiffness.

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  • LeafBox
    replied
    There was electro-hydraulic mounts? Did not know that, that is cool as hell.

    Leave a comment:

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