With this controller you can. It has a narrowband output that you connect to motronic instead of the stock sensor. The heating wires of the stock lambda sensor you just leave unconnected.
You still need the controller though, as it is what makes the narrowband signal from the wideband signal and outputs it for the ECU.
A short review of the 14.7 SLC DIY WBO2 controller/datalogger
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just a second... can you use this wideband lambda probe like narrow band probe? and on the same place? how to do this?Leave a comment:
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Erm...well I don't like digital gauge.. don't know why , but only thing in my car on digital gauge will be EGT... because analog dont existe .. everything else must be analog..
g4 gauge from inovative motorsport cost 90$ ,and whole kit 250$ , then I my case is better to get from inovative..
I realy don't like digital.. have a alergy on it...
You can SWITCH the SLC DIY to show EGT.
And use a separate ANALOG gauge for AFR.
Innovate LC-1 has Serial communications, no additional logging inputs, no RPM pickup, no EGT (you have to pay extra), no boost logging...
Sorry, but I do not understand your logic.
Yes, I am using it in stock location and I have NO problems with it.Dmitri, are you using the stock narrowband hole position in your downpipe with the wideband sensor?? always i´ve heard that the wideband sensors should be just before the cats position,around 1 meter back from turbo exhaust and in the upper pipe position like the analogclocks at 10:10 hours....
this item seems to be very similar to the Zetronix
ZT-2 costs over twice as much, but yes, it is also a good product.Leave a comment:
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Dmitri, are you using the stock narrowband hole position in your downpipe with the wideband sensor?? always i´ve heard that the wideband sensors should be just before the cats position,around 1 meter back from turbo exhaust and in the upper pipe position like the analogclocks at 10:10 hours....
this item seems to be very similar to the Zetronix
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well I don't like digital gauge.. don't know why , but only thing in my car on digital gauge will be EGT... because analog dont existe .. everything else must be analog..
g4 gauge from inovative motorsport cost 90$ ,and whole kit 250$ , then I my case is better to get from inovative..
I realy don't like digital.. have a alergy on it...Leave a comment:
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The plug and play version does not have EGT though
That is why I like the DIY version. It is cheaper and has much more features.
You really don't need to have a hand like a surgeon or be a genius to put it together.
As long as you have some basic soldering experience, and a decent soldering iron, you will do just fine!Leave a comment:
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They do a plug / play version too, but more expensive naturally. Thanks Dmitri, looks like a nice piece of kit.Leave a comment:
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Well, you can take an analogue gauge with a linear input and use the output on the SLC DIY to feed the gauge.
That way you can have an analogue gauge.
What is the problem?
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I thin that price is ok. but only thing I can't stand this is digital gauge...OMG...
must be analog gauge..Leave a comment:
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ok thats interesting to know. Something more to add into the list of stuff to get.Leave a comment:
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You can just buy the kit and let someone local do the soldering job for money.
The creator of the kit said that he does not like soldering, and he would not do it, even if I offered him money for it.
Honestly, soldering through-hole components is fun the first couple times, and then it gets tedious. Just like socketing a ECU for example.
It's fine to do it for your own need - because you have this bunch of parts and it's really cool when you put it together like LEGO and it becomes greater than the sum of it's parts
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Nope, you would have to buy SLC Pure Plus.
It is interesting to build your own kit, but if you had to do it for others multiple times, I'd imagine it'd be really, really boring.
There is no crazy precise soldering there or anything though, it's just a bunch of through-hole components.Leave a comment:
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When I received the kit, it was missing the small red plexiglass overlay, which makes the display readable at daytime.
Also, the narrowband output was stuck at 0.9V.
The first issue was resolved, after I was shipped another bit of plexiglass.
The second issue was due to a firmware bug in the controller, so I had to send it back and have it reprogrammed.
There was also another bug (which did not affect me), which was when AFR dipped below 10.26, it would show "69", but that is fixed as well. It does not display below 10.26, because the Bosch sensor is not specified lower than that. You can verify that yourself by reading the datasheet.
If you buy a controller now, you will of course receive a version where all that is ironed out. I have not noticed any other issues.
I also did not incur any additional costs, everything was paid for by the seller.
I have been using it for about half a year now I think, works just as well as day 1.Leave a comment:
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