Which brake discs?

[igor136]

Tarox and Ebc

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[K Simmonds]

Interesting. These two manufacturers claim to heat treat brake discs. With cheap discs, I don't think so.

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Which two manufacturers mate?

[igor136]

Interesting. These two manufacturers claim to heat treat brake discs. With cheap discs, I don't think so.

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[studley07]

after selling my last quattro after a bad accident at work. Have now got another B3 2.3 20v Brakes are Tarox Sport Japans on the front with EBC on the rear with yellow stuff EBC all around steel braid hoses to help them on their way too. Could do with some help with a gearbox. Goes into third but doesnt stay there keeps popping out as soon as you put your foot on the loud pedal

[K Simmonds]

This drove me crazy. Maybe I shouldn't brake?

:-/

That made me laugh....I really don't think that's very practical though.

As Obli say Bosch brake parts are also good quality, I'd happily use them, basically anything made in Europe should be fine... Avoid stuff made in the east particularly China, not being racist for a moment but half the stuff they produce is total rubbish.

I only managed to cook the brakes whilst in motion once on my S2, in Scotland and it behaved like it was about it shake itself to bits after 30 miles covered in considerably less than half an hour, I thought it was going to ruin my trip but thankfully went away after five min's driving slowly around at 30 MPH just dabbing them occasionally to clean the disc off.

However, if you park your car up with red hot brakes then it burns a load of a material onto one area of the disc and gives the 'warped' symptoms really badly, if you've got a mate with a lathe then that's does the job quickly but it can be rectified by hand with course sand paper and time.

[Obli]

Bosch discs and pads are worth considering too, if looking for OEM+. I bought mine from Autodoc. Didn't realise before but their discs and pads are highly regarded, as one should expect from Bosch, tbh.

I think Kit's dead-on with the pad material accumulation rather than warped discs. Warped discs are often, incorrectly the first suspicion. Got to be worth trying a clean-up of the disc faces as described, a squirt of brake cleaner and then reintroduce the disc with the pad progressively by following a bedding in procedure.

[igor136]

This drove me crazy. Maybe I shouldn't brake?

:-/

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[K Simmonds]

In that case it sounds like you've got uneven pad material build or a warp as it's referred to again, it gets worse when their hot as the material expands more than cast iron. Get them skimmed/cleaned again or do it your with sand paper and try some Ferodo pads by the sounds of it. What a PITA!

[igor136]

The reason may also be passing through water. But I don't remember such a situation. Brakes start to shake during road racing, most often. Speed 150 km/h, deceleration to 80 km/h and so 5 times and done. I think they are all bad, recycled materials.

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[igor136]

When the brakes are cold, you feel it a little. When they warm up, it shakes like crazy. I disassembled, cleaned and lubricated the brake caliper. Hoses are new. After installation, the discs were warped after 1,000 km, so I took them in for machining. After 2000 km, they warped again. Until then, the braking was perfect. Maybe the only solution is to pay 300 euros for new Audi discs. I had a similar problem with my Audi 100 C3 years ago. Ate discs and Trv pads. I solved the problem with Ferodo pads.

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[K Simmonds]

Yep, an even build up of pad on the friction surface should be delectable all the time, hot or cold.

It is effectively a warp, the only reason I say vented discs can't physically warp is I know I guy who designs and manufactures them and he explained to me in great detail how stable they are as long as they're bolted tightly to a hub and that any vibration caused by the disc itself will be uneven pad build up. Sure if you took one off and chucked it in a furnace it could warp but they are designed so the stresses of each side keep them straight in normal use.

All I can suggest is to take the front wheels off and inspect everything very closely, a dodgy pad could be your problem.

[newsh]

As Kit says, actual warping is very rare.

Did you get the brakes really hot then hold the car on a hill or at a red light perhaps?

If the discs are very hot and the car is held stopped with the brakes applied, the pad material can migrate into the steel.

You could try doing a brake “break in” again

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5300/~/how-do-i-break-in-new-pads-and-rotors%3F

[Tractor Dave]

As Kit says, if they are warped you should feel it with gentle braking even when cold. It will be a gentle pulse back on the brake pedal. More noticeable at very slow speed.

[K Simmonds]

I always clean everything. The vibration starts after hard braking. The disc may not be compatible with the brake pad. Maybe the friction creates a high temperature.

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That's good, so you installed them yourself and we can rule out poor seating or loose/miss torqued wheel bolts?

I guess it's possible that the pads aren't compatible with the discs, not out of the question, but unlikely.

I suspect something mechanical is amiss, all I can suggest is to strip them down and inspect everything, make sure the pistons are all nice and smooth in operation and you don't have a damaged pad. Clean the friction surface of disc's as I described and put them back hoping for the best.

Also closely check the condition of the tyres, inside and out, a damaged side wall could possibly be the cause.

[igor136]

I always clean everything. The vibration starts after hard braking. The disc may not be compatible with the brake pad. Maybe the friction creates a high temperature.

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