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Car Broke down! :/ after full revs Any help /advice?

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Just get it looked at before you start believing the doom mongers.

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  • steverrquattro
    replied
    This happened to me yesterday in my shortened UR which has an ADU engine in it...………
    On the way home though and after a hard exit in 2nd from a roundabout, the engine cut out and I had to roll down to the bottom of the hill before parking safely. Fortunately I took the OBDII code reader with me having previously rewired the connectors so that I can now get live data. The only code I could pull was 'overcurrent'.
    The car would turn over but not start. I initially checked for loose boost hoses and having burnt my arm on the Lamda sensor I sat back in the car for a re-think. So, checking fuse 13 (Fuel pump) showed that it had blown. I then swapped this for fuse 17 (Heater/blower) and the car started and drove 100 meters or so before cutting out.
    This time the fuse had now blown, so I removed the fuel pump relay and plugged in the jumper wire which effectively bridges/links 12V's directly to the fuel pump. I could neither hear nor feel anything from the pump.
    After another ponder, I lifted the back seat and checked the connector and noticed that the green and yellow wire was tarnished from heat over the last 37 years and this is where it gets interesting. Both connectors/wires were attached, but the wiring felt so brittle. I can only presume that although there was a connection, it was impaired by the amount of carbon on the wires and effectively caused a bad connection, causing more amps to be drawn.


    I then looked around this fairly remote area and knocked on the door of the house which had loads of old Jags parked on the driveway and guess what, he was a mechanic of 50 years and had a wire stripper and some connector block. 5 minutes later I trimmed back 10mm either side of the wiring and made temporary repairs and the car fired straight up and the journey continued home.
    Reason for posting, well, check the wiring around the connector and make good before it lets you down.
    Last edited by steverrquattro; 7 May 2019, 20:09. Reason: Bad spelling.

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  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by Thecrispynoodle View Post
    Sounds remarkably like when my crank bolt was loose and the woodruff key on the lower timing pulley sheered off killing most of my valves. Compression test.
    please no ..

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  • Thecrispynoodle
    replied
    Sounds remarkably like when my crank bolt was loose and the woodruff key on the lower timing pulley sheered off killing most of my valves. Compression test.

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  • Henkjan
    replied
    http://www.s2central.com/blinkcodes.html

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  • Henkjan
    replied
    You can also extract the fault coder with a lightbulb

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  • Chris5044
    replied
    oh ffss! ive bought an ODBC connector, I need to buy an adaptor now?

    This whole thing is deffo taking a lot longer than needed.
    Thank you for the reply.. mehhhhhhh... is it normal for an S2 to have lots of problems? they are getting old now.

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  • Colesy
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris5044 View Post

    Hmm on looking I cannot see ODBC connectors here, are you sure? I found the fuses, my car is an ABY, The battery is under the rear seat also.
    They are black and white 2x2 connectors you need an adaptor for an ODBC cable

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  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by Colesy View Post
    Hopefully just a boost hose blowing off, have a good check around.

    There are 2x2 connectors for fault codes in the fuse box under the bonnet.
    Hmm on looking I cannot see ODBC connectors here, are you sure? I found the fuses, my car is an ABY, The battery is under the rear seat also.

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  • Greg_S
    replied
    Sorry to hear this Chris. Hopefully not done too much damage.

    Get it checked out properly. I know you were about to do the cambelt so hopefully you get away without bending something internally.

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  • John.
    replied
    Hope it's nothing serious, a "boom" then power loss doesn't sound good though. As you've said "no fluids lost" then as above a compression test would be a good idea assuming the cam timing is found to be ok first?

    Maybe clutch/flywheel has damaged the rpm sensor??

    Hopefully maybe just an air hose has split/come off?

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  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by Colesy View Post
    Hopefully just a boost hose blowing off, have a good check around.

    There are 2x2 connectors for fault codes in the fuse box under the bonnet.
    Legend!! Than you!

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  • Colesy
    replied
    Hopefully just a boost hose blowing off, have a good check around.

    There are 2x2 connectors for fault codes in the fuse box under the bonnet.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    Hey! does the audi have a odbc port? guys - if so, where would it be found? thx in advance

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  • rynaqui
    replied
    It's hard to say what could have happened. Hitting the rev limiter does not normally cut the engine out, not in the time I've had my car anyway. I would advise a thorough check and compression test if nothing visible is damaged.

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