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First post! 1995 UrS6 mystery meat setup

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  • First post! 1995 UrS6 mystery meat setup

    Hello S2 forum! This is my first ever post so bear with me. I recently picked up a '95 S6 for an absolute STEAL! To which I have been working out the odds and ends. I have finally got it to a point where I can really give it some beans and, unsurprisingly, I might have a boost leak. (maybe?)

    So here is the low-down. When accelerating full throttle the car will build boost until 3K RPM at that point I'm at about 20-ish PSI. Past this point when looking at my boost gauge I can see the PSI dropping to about 17-18-19 PSI for roughly 1-1.5 second before returning to 20 PSI. In this short span of the boost falling off, the car will noticeably loose power. Once the boost goes back to 20 PSI it will pick back up and continue accelerating.

    It does not sound like the car is misfiring or the engine is sputtering out. The only audible aspect is the sound of the turbo getting quieter when the boost falls to under 20 PSI sort of like a "WSHHHHH (20 PSI)" to "wshhhhh (under 20)" back to "WSHHHH" when I get back to 20 PSI. After the drop off in boost and subsequent return, the car will continue pulling at 20PSI until I let off the gas.

    Going full throttle ABOVE 3000RPM lends itself to a similar problem, but instead of dropping from 20 PSI to 17-18-19 PSI it's more closer to 19 PSI and the car won't fall flat on its face as bad.

    Also on some pulls the car will flutter on boost, the dial will sputter back and forth as boost increases, this can be heard as well.

    As for the setup of the car itself. It's rocking a coil conversion, speed density tune, and that's it! Who the tune was done by I have no idea, and I do believe the turbo is stock as the routing of the lines seem stock to other K24 7000 AAN's I've seen

    I plan on doing a boost leak test but where to start I am not sure. But any input will be greatly appreciated! I will try to post a video down below once I figure out how to do that
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  • #2
    Hi if it's a boost cut it's quite a violent affair bit like you're gonna get chucked through the windscreen

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Rikki Kitto View Post
      Hi if it's a boost cut it's quite a violent affair bit like you're gonna get chucked through the windscreen
      Hey! Definantly NOT boost cut, I will post a video soon but its a smooth loss of boost

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      • #4
        Could be a light misfire, when were the plugs last changed? Are the coils used OEM? Non oem have been known to cause issues.

        Sounds to me like the issue only presents itself when the car is under a heavy load?
        1996 S2 ABY Silver

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        • #5
          https://files.catbox.moe/oytkkb.mov

          Here is a catbox video of the boost falling off. If it doesn't work let me know and I'll try a different service

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          • #6
            I'd try a different N75 valve. Have you got access to vagcom? Any codes??
            Rob..
            94 RS2 Noggy,LHD,MTM map,18"cup 1s,245/35/18,Bilsteins,RS2 H&Rs,Cup splitter.
            87 UR 20v ABY
            97 S6 Avant
            96 A6 C4 2.5 TDI quattro avant,Ming,Wietec/eibach,chipped
            1967 Ford Mustang,Eleanor,460ci v8

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            • #7
              Originally posted by GT500 View Post
              I'd try a different N75 valve. Have you got access to vagcom? Any codes??
              No I have yet to acquire one, but I probably should have already had one!

              Also to add, if it I were to swap out the N75 valve what one should I go with? The stock N75 is the "H' variant but since I seem to be pushing around 22-25 PSI shouldn't I go for the "K" variant from the RS2? If its even still available?
              Last edited by IHNTOFT; 29 August 2024, 15:53.

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              • #8
                Do a pressure test! No guessing

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by IHNTOFT View Post

                  No I have yet to acquire one, but I probably should have already had one!

                  Also to add, if it I were to swap out the N75 valve what one should I go with? The stock N75 is the "H' variant but since I seem to be pushing around 22-25 PSI shouldn't I go for the "K" variant from the RS2? If it's hat even still available?
                  Get what you can. The better ones said made in Monaco. Always made wonder why Monaco?

                  get it vagcom'd first job.
                  Rob..
                  94 RS2 Noggy,LHD,MTM map,18"cup 1s,245/35/18,Bilsteins,RS2 H&Rs,Cup splitter.
                  87 UR 20v ABY
                  97 S6 Avant
                  96 A6 C4 2.5 TDI quattro avant,Ming,Wietec/eibach,chipped
                  1967 Ford Mustang,Eleanor,460ci v8

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GT500 View Post

                    Get what you can. The better ones said made in Monaco. Always made wonder why Monaco?

                    get it vagcom'd first job.
                    I'm guessing I just need a 2x2 adapter, RT cable (Chinese or genuine) and a laptop correct?

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                    • #11
                      spend the money and get the vagcom cables. chinesium is just plain annoying.
                      1993 UrS4...aka the rocket powered living room

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                      • #12
                        Check the diverter valve, diaphragm might be leaking, you should be able to pull a vacuum on the actuator line.

                        S2 Coupe 3B Project


                        Ur quattro restoration

                        S2 Avant

                        Boost is the new rock and roll!
                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          Update for anyone interested! I attempted to use a paper clip and jump the diag connectors to see if I could do a N75 test. After 20 or so mins of trying I couldn't get the car to go into diag. I guess Im gonna have to wait until I get my cables in the mail

                          If I had a standalone like VEMS would that prevent me from doing the Diagnostic checks via paper clip method?

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                          • #14
                            If you can’t wait for the cables can you make your self an MIL adaptor that provides blink codes but a lot easier with the vcds cable.

                            as has been suggested check the diverter valve with a vacuum tester and also the waste gate diaphragm.

                            it could also be coil packs if the orginal older ones, upgrading to the 2.0t stick coil packs is much more reliable
                            Greg

                            S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

                            '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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