I finally got round to fitting my Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pump on Friday and thought I'd mention a few things to help anyone else doing this conversion, particularly with an S4 or S6!
Firstly study this thread, especially Greg's PDF installation instructions which are linked to in page 2...
This link was also helpful...
I waited until the fuel warning light came on before attempting this conversion and I would recommend everyone else does the same. As it was I was pretty spaced out come Friday evening with a bad headache to go with it!
It's a good idea to remove the fuel pump fuse (#17 on S4/S6) while the engine is running to help de-pressurise the fuel system. If you leave this fuse out you shouldn't have to disconnect the battery although feel free to do this as well for extra security! You should still make sure you have plenty of kitchen roll at the ready!!
Also note that you SHOULD NOT use anything metal to undo the metal retainer for the fuel level sender unit just in case
I used a drumstick, a rubber mallet and some lubricating spray which worked a treat for me. I doubt many of you have any drumsticks to hand but I'm sure you can improvise with something else.
Also do yourself a favour and either buy or make yourself a tool for removing the fuel pump basket. The basket has to be rotated anti-clockwise about half an inch before you can pull it out of the housing. I tried to turn it by hand at first but there was no chance of it shifting so I made a tool using a bit of plywood which turned it easilly. (See Pic below) I cut 3 notches using the new fuel pump basket (895 201 779 H) as a template. Note the 4 slots at the top of the old fuel pump housing.
Notes specific for urS4/S6 installation
All of the guides listed above have a lot of relevance to the S4/S6 installation. I followed Greg's instructions for modifying the new fuel pump basket which works nicely. Most of the parts required are exactly the same as in Doug's thread. Here they are again...
895 201 779 H Reservoir
895 201 531 A Strainer
N 903 307 01 Adapter / Banjo
N 013 812 8 Sealing Washers x 2
N 011 069 1 Domed Nut
These parts are also correct for S4/S6 installation all apart from the Banjo adapter (N 903 307 01 ) which I found out at 4pm on Friday afternoon won't work with the S4.
Instead of this you will need to find a 12mm Banjo fitting but with a nipple to allow the fuel hose to be clamped in place. Luckily I found one at a local Diesel specialist before they closed for the weekend. I have since noticed that 034 motorsport sell the part, see here...
You will also need 2 extra sealing washers (N 013 812 8), 2 for the banjo fitting on top of the new pump and 2 new ones for the banjo fitting on top of the fuel level unit and a suitable hose clamp for where the fuel hose connects to the banjo fitting on the new fuel pump.
Once I'd removed the cover in the boot I had to take off all 3 hoses in order to remove the fuel level sender unit (have plenty of kitchen paper ready!). Take note of where the buoy and various hoses are located so that you don't get it wrong when re-fitting.
I think that covers everything. It's a pretty simple job if you do your homework and hopefully the above tips should help make it even easier.
Firstly study this thread, especially Greg's PDF installation instructions which are linked to in page 2...
This link was also helpful...
I waited until the fuel warning light came on before attempting this conversion and I would recommend everyone else does the same. As it was I was pretty spaced out come Friday evening with a bad headache to go with it!
It's a good idea to remove the fuel pump fuse (#17 on S4/S6) while the engine is running to help de-pressurise the fuel system. If you leave this fuse out you shouldn't have to disconnect the battery although feel free to do this as well for extra security! You should still make sure you have plenty of kitchen roll at the ready!!
Also note that you SHOULD NOT use anything metal to undo the metal retainer for the fuel level sender unit just in case
I used a drumstick, a rubber mallet and some lubricating spray which worked a treat for me. I doubt many of you have any drumsticks to hand but I'm sure you can improvise with something else. Also do yourself a favour and either buy or make yourself a tool for removing the fuel pump basket. The basket has to be rotated anti-clockwise about half an inch before you can pull it out of the housing. I tried to turn it by hand at first but there was no chance of it shifting so I made a tool using a bit of plywood which turned it easilly. (See Pic below) I cut 3 notches using the new fuel pump basket (895 201 779 H) as a template. Note the 4 slots at the top of the old fuel pump housing.
Notes specific for urS4/S6 installation
All of the guides listed above have a lot of relevance to the S4/S6 installation. I followed Greg's instructions for modifying the new fuel pump basket which works nicely. Most of the parts required are exactly the same as in Doug's thread. Here they are again...
895 201 779 H Reservoir
895 201 531 A Strainer
N 903 307 01 Adapter / Banjo
N 013 812 8 Sealing Washers x 2
N 011 069 1 Domed Nut
These parts are also correct for S4/S6 installation all apart from the Banjo adapter (N 903 307 01 ) which I found out at 4pm on Friday afternoon won't work with the S4.
Instead of this you will need to find a 12mm Banjo fitting but with a nipple to allow the fuel hose to be clamped in place. Luckily I found one at a local Diesel specialist before they closed for the weekend. I have since noticed that 034 motorsport sell the part, see here... You will also need 2 extra sealing washers (N 013 812 8), 2 for the banjo fitting on top of the new pump and 2 new ones for the banjo fitting on top of the fuel level unit and a suitable hose clamp for where the fuel hose connects to the banjo fitting on the new fuel pump.
Once I'd removed the cover in the boot I had to take off all 3 hoses in order to remove the fuel level sender unit (have plenty of kitchen paper ready!). Take note of where the buoy and various hoses are located so that you don't get it wrong when re-fitting.
I think that covers everything. It's a pretty simple job if you do your homework and hopefully the above tips should help make it even easier.