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  • xgordyx
    replied
    Ok, starting to get somewhere now,after changing the MAF car running much better now, no longer back fires and pick up is much better, but still holding back on wot. Had a good look at the wires from the MAF that have been cut a re joined and tbh they look grim to say the least. Going to have a look to see how much of the aby loom is the same as the 3b and if possible change what i can of it. Might pull the top of the wg and check the diaphragm too.
    Started to get a bit of a grin while out on a quick blast then the alternator belt went, new one on order tho, will get it tomorrow

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  • xgordyx
    replied
    Are they the same as 3b? If so i've got one somewhere.

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  • Knight Rider S4
    replied
    Do you have a spare MAF to swap over ...sometimes they can be faulty but no appear on vag.com ..would check the plug connection as well as this can cause same problem

    If you dont I can post one upto you to try if you want have a few spare

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  • xgordyx
    replied
    Yes and no Mike, only when gearing down when it pops and back fires. I can't see it in my mirror, was my mate that said it to me when he was following behind me. But not during acceleration or cruising.

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  • europeanme
    replied
    do you get any black smoke on changing gear??....as this sounds the same problem as me...

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  • xgordyx
    replied
    Originally posted by Knight Rider S4
    Have you bought Andy's old car ?...........

    Does the problem alter when hot or cold?

    Have you checked for certain it is a boost/ leak issue?..with gauge

    ..went round all the hose clips , checked bottom of throttle body hose
    Ye it's Andys old car, no difference that i've noticed between hot and cold that i notice.
    Fitted a full set of silicone hoses hoping to cure the prob but it didn't

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  • xgordyx
    replied
    Originally posted by s2_bo
    Use a multimeter first to check the WGFV. if its showing power then its no longer the same problem..

    How much did you pay for the car?
    Did an out put test way vaggom and it clicks away no probem.

    Swapped it for my Golf v6 4motion

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  • Knight Rider S4
    replied
    Have you bought Andy's old car ?...........

    Does the problem alter when hot or cold?

    Have you checked for certain it is a boost/ leak issue?..with gauge

    ..went round all the hose clips , checked bottom of throttle body hose

    Leave a comment:


  • s2_bo
    replied
    Use a multimeter first to check the WGFV. if its showing power then its no longer the same problem..

    How much did you pay for the car?

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  • europeanme
    replied
    I hear that....they can be a PITA but it's that grin factor when it does run sweet as a nut....which mine most certainly is not....

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  • s2_bo
    replied
    If its the same problem that any was talking about then your not getting any power to the WGFV. To quick fix this problem we wired power there directly from the fuse output with a separate cable. So the fuse box was showing a single cable running from under the plastic lid to the wgfv connector block that the previous owner has chopped in..

    If this is gone then the WGFV will not have any power so it woant work. (unless in the last few months it was repaired)

    Why dont you just connect a new cable to it from the fuse (output), back to the connector block that now sits in between the WGFV and the rest of the loom.

    What the car really needs is a new loom.

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  • xgordyx
    replied
    Just been having a look at the car today, the fuse was missing for the wgfv so pooped a new fuse in to it and took it a run. No difference.
    Ran vag com and did an out put test, everything seems to be ok everything clicking away. So cleared the codes and took the car for a run. Came back no faults apart from the usual engine speed sensor.
    What should i try now?? Running out of patients with the car

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  • ericd
    replied
    Originally posted by andyg plym
    read through my old posts mate.

    long long story short i owned the car twice, the first time i swapped it for an avant as needed 4 doors. 1 year later i was contacted by the guy i swapped with who wanted to swap back.
    Since he swapped it with me he had put a tubular exhaust manifold on it and also an rs2 turbo.
    when i took it back off him i had to use the tubular manifold and try getting my spare kkk24 to work. It was not compatible. In the process the guy in question had cut a load of cables and pipes etc. if you check the wiring to the wgfv you will see i hardwired a wire from there straight to the fuse box.
    There is no power going to the wgfv or isv (use same power source) in the loom itself.
    You will also probably know that when starting from cold its a bit lumpy and not happy, purely because the isv has no power to it.
    from the output its currently running standard s/w?

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  • andyg plym
    replied
    il pm you my number

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  • andyg plym
    replied
    read through my old posts mate.

    long long story short i owned the car twice, the first time i swapped it for an avant as needed 4 doors. 1 year later i was contacted by the guy i swapped with who wanted to swap back.
    Since he swapped it with me he had put a tubular exhaust manifold on it and also an rs2 turbo.
    when i took it back off him i had to use the tubular manifold and try getting my spare kkk24 to work. It was not compatible. In the process the guy in question had cut a load of cables and pipes etc. if you check the wiring to the wgfv you will see i hardwired a wire from there straight to the fuse box.
    There is no power going to the wgfv or isv (use same power source) in the loom itself.
    You will also probably know that when starting from cold its a bit lumpy and not happy, purely because the isv has no power to it.

    Leave a comment:

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