Aftermarket Boost Management

[DJones]

The reason it is much less safe compared to stock, is that it does not pull boost when the engine knocks.
So it will merrily boost as much as programmed to, even if you get heavy knock.

And you can get heavy knock just from the MAF-Turbo hose leaking or a breather hose giving up the ghost.
If you want that flat "strong" feeling, I can send you a file with that for the stock ECU
The most I could drive with that setup was 10 minutes, home from the airstrip and then I got annoyed already. Especially with the stock turbo.

Whilst you do loose the (factory) safety factor with an aftermarket set up would the knock sensors not retard timing prior to the heavy knock you describe..

The good aftermarket set ups have their own over boost facility that will halve the boost instantly if the maximum pre set level is reached.

Personally i would find out what is fitted and how it is operating prior to removing it.

[prj]

The reason it is much less safe compared to stock, is that it does not pull boost when the engine knocks.
So it will merrily boost as much as programmed to, even if you get heavy knock.

And you can get heavy knock just from the MAF-Turbo hose leaking or a breather hose giving up the ghost.
If you want that flat "strong" feeling, I can send you a file with that for the stock ECU
The most I could drive with that setup was 10 minutes, home from the airstrip and then I got annoyed already. Especially with the stock turbo.

[Tonks4x4]

I would think the obvious ones that can be checked are AFR, Boost and EGT through after Market gauges.

[s2_wot]

Posting on behalf of Mick "irish"

The car has been in the hands of a jap scrap tuner and now has a whizzey box located under the steering column that was placed there to control the boost. There's a maze of small guage piping in the engine bay including a connection to the upper port of the wastegate. I suspect the N75 has been disabled / removed. Anyway my initial thoughts were to have all that stuff removed and the car put back to standard.

However having gone for a brief spin in the car it feels strong and I was wondering is there any way to verify if the current setup is safe to run?

Is there anything that could be logged during driving using vag-com or should the stuff be just ripped out?