How to see if ones engine is on limp mode???

[Vauhtiveikko]

Got time to check the mechanical boost level and it sit now in the 0,4bar that seems good. Now it´s time to relay the fuel pump and I also have a new clutch slave cylinder waiting some garage time. The first snow dropped to the ground today so did have some sideways fun also

[Vauhtiveikko]

Thanks David,

You are right about the fuel pump. I think it is the next logical step that I am going to sort out. There was some discussion about what kind of pump to use, but the relay system is in any case a smart move

Changed the spring today and the car feels more flexible to drive. Acceleration is much smoother now and the boost does not spike up in the end so much that it did with the stiffer spring. The boost rises to about 1.6bar and holds 1,4/1,5ish. Have to test the mechanical boost tomorrow with the N75 disconnected.

Did try to take last acceleration measurements with a gps, but after I had spun all the four wheels from stand still through first/second and third gear I had to agree that the summer is over with the grip

[macspring]

Prj,

I presume if the car is having some work done to it, it would be a good idea to relay the existing fuel pump, if the the existing fuel pump is not being replaced with an 044 pump ?

Great thread by the way.

Kind regards to both.

[prj]

Possibly a 10v spring.
Yeah, that would explain the higher boost.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Looks can be misleading The WG cap was not drilled and the measurement from the inner top of the cap to the spring seat was quite accurately 26mm, BUT...

The spring did not match to the readings that I read from the forum. The lenght is 73mm and the diameter 39,2mm. It is 3,2mm thick, so it is probably not STOCK. I dug my sparepart box (that came with the car) and suprise, I found the orginal spring (I think it is, but did not know about it). The lenght is 87-88mm´ish, the diameter 38,5mm and it´s 2,8mm thick.

Have to try the other spring tomorrow and see if it makes a difference. The mechanical boost was 0,5 with the N75 disconnected. Maybe this is the answer to PRJ´s thoughts that the boost is about 10% too much for the setup




The rest of WG setup seemed fine to me. The sealing was intact and quite flexible.


We will see tomorrow

[Thuppu]

I Like Your project Thuppu, did you find the reasons for the knocking sound?

Yes I did. I will soon update my project thread.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Yes it felt quite slippy yesterday (water over black ice) so probably not many days left anymore to lay the power to the ground. Though last year this time the view looked like this:


It is time to get some sideways action I think Going to change winter tires tomorrow and also mount small front mud flaps to preserve the sides of the car.

Thuppu wrote:Got a small delay on my project, waiting for few parts...

I Like Your project Thuppu, did you find the reasons for the knocking sound?

[Thuppu]

Yup, maybe something for when I visit Thuppu

Got a small delay on my project, waiting for few parts... Well, soon it's snow here, can be quite difficult to map on icy roads.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Will do that tomorrow... Free day from work (been working with out holidays for three weeks now), some quality time for my car Changing the airfilter for new one also.

[prj]

Check your wastegate diaphragm, if it is alright, check that you have the stock spring and the screw not screwed in.
Car might just be overboosting a bit. If it's not, boost chip needs a small edit towards redline with 10% less boost or so.

[prj]

Injectors are maxed, yeah.
The formula is (IPW+Lagtime)*RPM/1200 when using values from VAG-COM.
This is because Motronic outputs the desired actual injector opening time to VAG-COM, without taking lag time into account, which it adds later.
The lag time for RS2 injectors at 13.25 volts is 0.58ms (as it is set in the Motronic ECU).

Here is the output from your car with the injector duty cycle added:

RPM	Inj. On Time	IDC	Voltage
			
 /min	 ms	%	 V
720	2.21	1.67	13,74
680	2.47	1.73	13,60
760	2.34	1.85	13,74
720	2.34	1.75	13,74
720	2.34	1.75	13,74
720	2.34	1.75	13,53
720	2.21	1.67	13,80
760	2.34	1.85	13,67
840	7.02	5.32	14,01
1720	3.9	6.42	13,74
1600	4.29	6.49	13,74
1480	4.94	6.81	13,46
2120	5.72	11.13	13,74
2880	6.24	16.37	13,67
3720	5.85	19.93	13,74
3360	1.04	4.54	13,46
2440	5.59	12.55	13,74
2480	6.5	14.63	13,74
2800	7.02	17.73	13,67
3200	7.93	22.69	13,74
3640	10.92	34.88	13,60
4280	12.61	47.04	13,46
5000	20.67	88.54	13,40
6000	18.07	93.25	13,33
7080	16.25	99.30	13,33
5720	8.71	44.28	13,40
5440	19.63	91.62	13,33
5880	18.59	93.93	13,26
6320	17.42	94.80	13,26
6760	16.25	94.81	13,46
6400	1.04	8.64	13,74
5560	15.34	73.76	13,40
5760	18.85	93.26	13,40
5960	18.2	93.27	13,40
5480	1.04	7.40	13,67

That's why I keep telling people RS2 injectors are too small
Running anything over 90% is generally a bad idea, because if for any reason at all there is a boost spike, there won't be enough fuel.
Also, there is not enough injector room here for any knock enrichment. If you knock, it will just flatline and keep knocking.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Does this log look the right values? Have to say that driving in intense fog in the dark, while using a laptop in the passenger seat is quite a challenge

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/47208961/LOG-01-002-004test-xxx.csv

[prj]

Yup, maybe something for when I visit Thuppu

[Vauhtiveikko]

this is then a newer ending story

will have to check what is what, gladly it soon winter time and it is not possible to drive flat out all the time

[prj]

If you increase the fuel pressure, the car will run rich everywhere... so no.
If you start maxing them, you need a custom remap

EDIT:
Fuel pump would not boost fuel pressure unless pressure is tapering with the current one, since regulator limits it to 4 bar.