How to see if ones engine is on limp mode???

[prj]

Btw you have to sort the knock sensor out, or boost will be lowered and ignition retarded by 6 degrees across the range.

[prj]

Make a Group 000 log when engine is up to full operating temp at idle.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Engine was cold. I tested the N75 with the vagcom and it clicked like it should and measured the resistans and that was correct also. Also measured the MAF readings from the sensor and from the connector, all seems to be like they should number wise.

[prj]

Was the engine hot or cold?

[Vauhtiveikko]

I pulled the log when the car was idling. The knock sensor was present again in the codes...

Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 8A0 907 551 B
Component and/or Version: V2.2l R5 MOTR.RHV RS2E02
Software Coding: PMC 1
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 26480B4EE87C
2 Faults Found:

00524 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
03-00 - No Signal

Readiness: N/A
Monday,07,November,2011,20:51:03:29542
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.5 (x64)
Data version: 20110930

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (8A0 907 551 B)

20:51:00 Group 000
106
026
096
130
066
128
048
128
128
035

what can we see from these???

[UrS4boy]

I hooked up an output from the ECU to the dash to warn of fault codes. This was something a few people on the forum did way back in the day. I utilised the unused steering wheel symbol on the dash as the warning lamp. IIRC there was only one output wire to hook into. I really can't remember much about it now, I'll have a look for the posts re this mod. It may help you identify when you're going into limp mode.

In North America we got those from the factory as "CEL" (Check Engine Lights). They also work as the output when you blink out the fault codes. I think Paul N. has a "fix" for the Euro cars on his website.

[SteveH]

I hooked up an output from the ECU to the dash to warn of fault codes. This was something a few people on the forum did way back in the day. I utilised the unused steering wheel symbol on the dash as the warning lamp. IIRC there was only one output wire to hook into.

I really can't remember much about it now, I'll have a look for the posts re this mod. It may help you identify when you're going into limp mode.

[prj]

Fuel pressure and boost pressure are two different things.

No, you can't see boost pressure in VAG-COM.
The fuel pressure should always be 4 bar (or 3.8 bar if you have a 3.8 bar FPR) + boost.

Use the MAF tubing, but block off the PCV, and the lower chamber of the WG.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Back to the basics I think Is there also the fuel pressure reading throw the Group 000? or do I need to accuire separate pressure gauge?

Is there some reasonable way to attach pressure gauge to the boost side tubing because the turbo is a bit in the way. I did the pressure test throw the MaF tubing and used I dishwashing soap to locate any leaks.

[prj]

Ok, so you are just on a set of generic chips then.
You can't check AFR in VAG-COM because this version of Motronic obviously does not have WBO2 feedback.

You need a separate WBO2 system. Also check your fuel pressure and your MAF readings with VAG-COM at idle (Group 000, Value 2) and post here...
You should also do a proper boost leak test with something that bubbles easily.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Paul (S2central) made the software for the car and delivered also the 3bar MAP sensor. The turbo is stock K24 7200 and exhaust has not been decatted. Can one check AFR from vagcom?, no wideband installed yet. I use orginal RS2 injectors and changed the fuel filter for safe reasons yesterday (was from year 2007). Do not know about my fuel pump (may be orginal). The injectors where quite newish when i bought them. Should I renew the fuel pump with 044 bosch version?

I sure do not want to destroy the engine with these problems so the car stays in the garage until I find some reasonable explanation for the problem (Not my daily driver).

[prj]

Who mapped your car?
You need to check AFR asap, maybe your fuel delivery is dying and you are destroying the engine by pushing it.
Definitely do not push the car until you find the problem, or you can blow it up easily.

[Vauhtiveikko]

The bypass is metal version (i think its Forge). I´ll have to take a look for it. I also have to check the N75 operation today, and test the upper side of the wastegate by vacuum.

I changed the MAP sender for 3bar version when the mapping was changed, and also retrimmed the hose end inside of the ECU to prevent leaks. The knock sensor G61 plug looked good when opened, but maybe should buy a new sensor if reasonable priced

[Rusty]

Have you checked the dump valve? What DV are you running?

The knock sensors can cause boost limiting under more extreme conditions, so worth checking them out.

The base boost sounds fine to me.

Good luck sorting it...

[Vauhtiveikko]

Ever since I got my RS2 setup ABY mapped i have been facing hard times. The first test drive set the boost dial to 1.8bar and I smile on my face, after that i lost cyl 5 coil and all was no go.

Then i binned all the old spark/coil stuff and made a harness for 2.0TFSi coils. All felt right again, except the boost that did not go higher than 1.5-1.6 anymore (still pulled strong).

When I pulled the codes it gave me this:
00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation
08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

The car stalled few times when going form engine brake to clutch... -> doesn´t do that anymore, also the fault code is gone. Now it only hits 1.1-1.4 (holds 1.0) and it doesn´t feel that strong anymore.

Did test boost leaks by pressurising the maf hose and blocking the intake hose and the vacuum hose to the head. Sounded like the air was leaving the engine throw the wastegate (think through the N75, is this normal when tested like this?)

How can You test for boost leaks from the pressure side of the turbo? There is no room to put my test equipment or is there?

Tried the mechanical boost by taking of the N75 connector and the pressure rised to 0.5. Should it be 0.4??? The wastegate cover looks intact (not drilled).

Today I pulled the codes after the pressure test and it showed as follows:
00524 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent

Erased the codes and drived the car to read the codes again but the fault code was none. It feels that the car is on limp mode but can I pull some log of the vagcom to verify what to look next? Could it be good to change the knock sensor G61 ( I think itś orginal 212tkm) When driving on part throttle the car feels like it´s going back and forwards (must be lambda adaptation of some sort?). It goes good all the way to the redline put the Going is not so hard that it used to be And the boost get´s a litle bit off a low side in my opinnion.

Many questions here, any help would be appreciated