Boost pipes jumping - BOV ?

[prj]

Try cleaning the hoses of grease before assembly.
Tighten clamps more... If everything has raised lips it really should not be popping off.

I assume the hose that is popping off is the one between turbo and IC? Measure pressure at turbo outlet with a gauge, not only in IM. Blocked IC can cause high pressure pre IC.

Most of this is fairly unlikely anyway.
My point is that 2.2 bar is not that much boost, and the hoses are not going to pop off from that alone if properly fitted. Most likely there is some sort of movement or bad fittings.

Is the turbo/manifold braced?

[Faheemo]

2.2 bar boost , 2x thin clamps , yes all pipes have raised lips.

[prj]

Do all of the metal pipes have "thicker parts" (sorry, can't remember the word) at the end of the pipe?
Do you fit clamps after them? Do you use thick or thin clamps?

How much boost are you running?

[Faheemo]

O34 motorsports solid engine mounts... thers very little give wrt engine movement. (1st thing i checked was the mounts to see if they wher tight and intact.)
DV was tested after a good clean and regrease, works fine.

[prj]

I think your theory and diagnosis could be wrong in the first place.
What engine mounts are you using? I would say the engine moves around too much.

Boost spikes will not do anything to good quality silicone hoses. Lots of movement will.

[EspenW]

Bench test the DV with an air supply and some vacuum.

[Faheemo]

I tried servicing the DV, cleaned and regreasing it. I removed all the piping and re clamped all the silicone hoses using 2 clamps on each joint.
Lasted about half an hour, then one of the silicone hoses split down the middle.

[Rusty]

Sounds like you need a couple more DVs then. You could just run 3 710Ns at a total cost of about £75 and see if it cures it. Wouldn't want to spank £300+ on some fancy valves and end up finding out it doesn't work

Another option is to go for a larger bore DV off something that's a little feistier.

And yet another thought (or more of a musing really): what about adding the second vent near the TB or half way between the two, to prevent uneven pressure buildup in the system. Just a thought...

[Faheemo]

yeah i use silicone pipes with good quality hose clamps.
If i sort one area out properly , i have a pipe jump at another.
just carries on like that .....

[driftin jo]

Also, mikalor clamps can sometimes be too wide for the hose groove in some OE pipes, if youre still using them.

Yes, I had this problem at the throttle body attachment, I ended up modifying the clamp with an angle grinder.:mischeif:

[Rusty]

Also, mikalor clamps can sometimes be too wide for the hose groove in some OE pipes, if youre still using them.

[driftin jo]

I'm guessing your using silicone hoses ? The reason I say this is that silicone has a lot of give and during the pressure spike of lift off can stretch a lot, a hose clamp needs to be very tight to hold it.
A friend of mine had the same problem, the hose would come off the turbo as there was no lip on the outlet, the solution was to glue the hose on to the turbo outlet and clamp the **** out of it, after that it didn't come off again.

[Rusty]

Yes, due to lower mass and larger area for the pressure to act upon.

Vent to atmosphere valves are generally piston type.

All from what I've seen and read, rather than personal experience but worth having a look about and see what you can see.

[Faheemo]

so are diafram type valves quicker reacting then piston ones ?
are BOV's diafram or piston type ?
yeah - i've noticed some of the high hp cars using 2 x dv's.

thanks for the tips rusty.

[Rusty]

There are a few people running 2 valves on their cars, so that's well worth trying first.

If you want a faster acting valve then the APR R1 is a high strength diaphragm type, rather than piston of the 007 you are using, and reacts faster, rather like the OE or 710N valves.

Also check that your valve is in GWO and lubricate with red rubber grease.