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  • waveydavey
    replied
    Originally posted by GT500 View Post
    Then Dinitrol 3125 followed by Dinitrol 4941.
    Silly Question Rob. 3125 is a cavity wax so are you spraying it all over the POR15 and seam sealed floor or just into the cavities before applying the 4941 over the top?

    Cheers

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • waveydavey
    replied
    Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter View Post
    What did Audi use originally? I know it's some sort of flexible stuff that wasn't stuck too well in places.
    The whole underside of my S2 Avant is coated with this flexible stuff that has been overpainted with body colour. It's peeling in a few places and has let rust get a hold despite the galvanising. Am I better to remove as much as possible of this stuff before POR15ing the underside or should I just remove the loose bits? I don't really like the idea of the underside being an untidy patchwork mess.

    Cheers

    David

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  • Billman
    replied
    Nice. Any link for the 2 comp body sealer?

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  • Error404
    replied
    you should use the Metal Ready to etch the bare metal, then use POR15 as the base. Do 2 coats. Then use 2k body sealer, then dinitrol as suggested by Rob.

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  • Billman
    replied
    Q: Can I use for the underside of the car typical car paint primer and then POR 15?

    Or: Metal primer POR 15 and then this POR 15 gloss paint? I have seen POR 15 sell a rubber spray. Does it protect against stone chips?

    After that? Should I use this dinitrol?

    Leave a comment:


  • GT500
    replied
    Hi Johan,
    POR15 perfectley ok on rotating parts, the full system is for underside sheet metal.
    Small don't., POR hates UV, ie can be left as is if not in sun light.

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  • S4turbo
    replied
    Thanx for sharing this information!

    A few questions, I can not fint the dinitrol 3125 product, so should I just use the 4941?
    I'm going to sand blast all rusty parts under my car (S4) such as drive axles, hubs, crossmembers, sway bar++. Would you use all the products you described applied in the given order for all of these parts, or do you use them differently depending on the use/which parts you treat?

    Can you explain the reason why you would apply the dinitrol on top of the bodysealer and the POR15, doesen't the POR15 and bodysealer protect enough against corrosion?

    Is my understanding correct if you apply the dinitrol on top of a painted surface?

    Best regards, Johan


    Originally posted by GT500 View Post
    This is my area of expertise.
    Stay away from any Hammerite products.

    Undercoat/primer should be POR15. frosts sell it.
    Then 3M bodysealer, comes in a bag, two part epoxy product, very similar to the OE Audi seam sealer. This can be painted body colour as Audis are originally. Then Dinitrol 3125 followed by Dinitrol 4941.
    I am in the restoration business and have seen and used this method for many years. it lasts for ever!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ian Simmonds
    replied
    Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter View Post

    Hmmm... Not good when you're working under your car and flick some in you face then. BTDT.

    Lol... I got some (don't ask) in my hair, shot indoors and frantically wiped with various dubious substances but it still looked like a really iffy hair loss camoflage (even though I've got a full head of hair).. So threw myself in a boiling shower with a gallon of shampoo... Fortunately, that did the trick, but it could have proved nasty.

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  • 4WheelDrifter
    replied
    I had a go with the POR15 under the engine bay and wheel arches today. It was easy stuff to use, and didn't dry too quick. I prepared the surfaces with Metal Ready as advised, and I've got some Chassis Black to follow this up with. It's a lot better than the original finish on the underside of the chassis legs, grey primer.
    I'm not sure if I'll bother taking a hammer to the car to test how well it's bonded to it. I'll let the stones and gravel do that.
    Originally posted by GT500 View Post
    Best tip with POR is to after opening the tin, change to a coffee jar or something with a plastic lid, glass jar. I have not done this at first and the lid gets so sealed on with the paint you have to destroy the lid to get back in! its like its been welded on! Amazing stuff.
    I did this, as I had to wreck the tin lid to get into it. So I then used the original tin to contain the POR15 I wanted to use today.

    Originally posted by GT500 View Post
    if you get it on your skin its like a tatoo! there for weeks!
    Hmmm... Not good when you're working under your car and flick some in you face then. BTDT.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ian Simmonds
    replied
    I've never actually painted over it, but the blurb does say...

    and you can apply a topcoat of any finishing paint.

    It does dry to a smooth finish (as long as the under surface was smooth and the brush wasn't a broom).

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty
    replied
    Sorted Next Q, what paint to use over the top? SPray can based for ease of use of course...

    Leave a comment:


  • Ian Simmonds
    replied
    Well this is what the blurb says...

    Whilst any paint will provide some degree of protection from rust for a while, no other is as permanent as POR-15. When others have chipped, scratched, flaked, and peeled, POR-15 will still be preventing rust. Available in black, silver, gray or clear, US pint or quart POR-15 can be sprayed or brushed on to provide a rock hard, yet flexible, non-porous coating that will not shrink, peel, or crack. It is totally resistant to road salt, petrol, battery acid, etc., and actually dries harder in humid damp conditions. Ideal for suspension and chassis protection, and you can apply a topcoat of any finishing paint. This is protection you can count on. Available in Pints and Quarts. Pint covers 4.5 square metres.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    What about struts, hubs etc.? I cleaned mine up at the beginning of the year and painted them with Plasticote Enamel which I've found to be quite good, better than Hammerite anyway but they ideally require something a little more hardcore to keep them in 1 piece for the rest of time. Is this POR15 a good plan?

    Leave a comment:


  • kwlw
    replied
    Originally posted by Ian Simmonds View Post
    This is the international European stockist shown on the POR 15 website

    POR-15 GMBH
    49-30-49 77 12 25
    http://www.hoeseler-por15.com/
    Not sure, that they can find my country in the map. But thanks - I would try to write them a letter!

    Sau

    Leave a comment:


  • Ian Simmonds
    replied
    This is the international European stockist shown on the POR 15 website

    POR-15 GMBH
    49-30-49 77 12 25
    http://www.hoeseler-por15.com/

    Leave a comment:

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