You can change the style the forum displays by selecting your preferred style at the bottom left of the site.
We have made an enhancement so that old threads should now link from search results to the correct thread. This is not yet in place for single post links
Noticed coolant splatter on the floor so next day removed the heater box assembly and put in a low Km's complete assembly I had stashed away. All servos work and windows clean etc.. The job itself is not terrible but the healing for a week from ribs/back/legs and having had used muscles I forgot I had was real rough!!
For all the work involved I suggest new servos when you go in there as I am going to change my old ones to prepare for my next bit of C4 fun.
My reckoning of the the problem is that you should see if the heater flap servo motor needs to be taken apart and cleaned, as your first action to deal with the issue.
Dave has posted the link previously, and it can be found on Quattroworld.
Have you cheked the Climate fault codes? The will indicate if the flap motors are seized. There is a manual "hack" that you could do to get the flaps moving(for few weeks usually). I have done it once, to avoid pulling the flap motors out during the winter and postpone it for later.
But first, if the flap motor is the cause you need to verify that from CC fault codes or with Vag-com.
A bit beyond my capabilities...my mechanic has my car in storage so I suggested if he was quiet he could tackle this job..apparently he's been flat out since and hasn't had a chance[emoji38]
He has 2 of these cars himself so he knows exactly what's involved,must be a right p.i.t.a...
If it is greasy than there is not other option unfortunately.
I've done that matrix exchange and it take a 5-6 hours for 2 people who have not done it before.
Here are the steps in detail:
1.Remove housing that protects the heating and air conditioning
2.Remove to the wiper arms
3. Remove the grid the front window (outside)
4. Remove the housing that holds the grid
5. Remove the whole mechanism of the wiper motor of
6. Detatch all cacuum connectors on the body of the heater ( the body of the air conditioner does not and so do not touch )
7.Detach the drive mechanism of the valve for fresh air - is mounted on the body of the cabinet of the air conditioner .
8. Detach be rubber gasket that connects the heater box with the air conditioner.
9. Now release the air valves by hand close to not interfere with removal of the vapor
10. Inscew and remove the metal bracket that holds the heater box fixed to the body .
11. Detach hoses to the radiator and remove the vacuum tap the radiator with breather sleeve . It is good to be capped with a cork ( wine for example) hoses from leaking antifreeze .
VERY IMPORTANT !
12. Detach the body inside ducts for blowing the legs. They are kept in a screw 5 mm to the body of the heater .
13.Detachagain there two wheels ( left and right ) that connect the body with the heating ducts of the body . Just pull in and out
14.Remove to block climate control and in his hole detach two blades blue and red , mounted on top of the heater housing . It's hard to see because they are inward and upward.
15.Sled this by pulling up all the heater goes out
Keep in mind that the seal body is sticky , so after removing the clamp is needed to pull detaches from the body of the steam seal body . If after removing the seal comes off somewhere , it can be fixed with instant glue to the body .
Once the heater is out ( fortunately and time is about 1 in the morning : hilezh is the actual change of the matrix . Unfortunately, there is no cover, which can only fix matrixand need to be divided into two entire heating. Here with all due respect to the Germans : owned: - could be a cover on the side and pull only matrix. Anyway This procedure is also not painless :
1. Remove is the drive mechanism of the central valve
2. Under it is a circlip with fleece that keeps the damper - also removed
3.Detach the valve gear leg . They are of a single unit with a blue and red plug ( same are detached through the opening of the climate control unit and earlier) . Of the block is held in two black screws and remove the clip in the middle, attached to shoulder with a white screw on the valve.
4.Take out the radiator to the motor of a plastic box (I guess accumulator vacuum) which includes valve in a thick and a thin hose. The box itself held a screw removed . It is important to get out because I think there is a screw underneath that holds the two halves of the box heater
5.Ot same side of the heater from which the main valve and detach circlips and other valves.
6.Remove all clips that hold the two halves of the body of the vapor . It has a lot of places , some nice lookout not see well.
7.Unscew all the screws that hold the two halves , there are two screws on our search space - located very far and it takes a long screwdriver with a star magnet for developing them . There is also a screw behind the motor of the heating .
8. Finally opens into two halves of the heater box (where all the valves are moved around inside and then need a lot of patience to reposition )
9.Remove the heate matrix. It is fixed with some soft **** that keeps him on the side of the tubes .
Install the new matrix . To seal the inside of the cabinet is required at top and bottom to place foam rubber . Best bet it cracked along with protective hose for PVC plumbing. Tested . The problem is that my new matrix had by this soft **** glued top and bottom of the factory , so if applied directly to moving inside the box .
The actual assembly in reverse order , and must be adjusted all the valves to get into the open so that after closing can camp freely. Valves themselves are made of a special rubber, so there is no way to wear and they need to do some maintenance
After placing the steam note the connection of :
- The blue and the red plug of the drive mechanism below ( through the hole in climate control )
- Connection of the corrugated rubber sleeve below which provides air to the rear compartment . Fits fairly easily have two ears for pulling on both sides.
- Placing both knees ( left and right below) that connect the body of the heater with ducts of the body .
- Connecting ducts for the feet and turning them with screws.
Before turning on the heating Instead you should make sure that all connectors , and vacuum actuation mechanisms are attached properly . Any error will result in a corresponding error in recording climate control , and then it will be necessary through the VAG-COM program to delete
The easiest way to be sure if it is the heater matrix is to touch the screen from inside with fingers. If is greasy like oil than there is no doubt that it is the heater.
The heater comes out from the bonnet. No need to to disassemble the dash. Will send you pictures to make the work easier if that is the problem.
Cheers
It does seem greasy..
I sat in the car for over 30mins with the heat on full and it was baking hot.So it's possibly a leaking heater matrix?
The easiest way to be sure if it is the heater matrix is to touch the screen from inside with fingers. If is greasy like oil than there is no doubt that it is the heater.
The heater comes out from the bonnet. No need to to disassemble the dash. Will send you pictures to make the work easier if that is the problem.
It's buried in the dash. You don't want to go near it unless you are certain that's where the fault lies, in which case you would want to replace all 3 servos and the heater core whilst you're in there. There are a few 'how to' write ups available buts its not a quick job. Try and source a good working CC head first if you can to rule that out. It's not impossible that the CC head is to blame they do fail producing a variety of different symptoms. Has it ever worked? Is the car new to you?
No,it's never worked in my ownership(15 months) but wasn't in use last winter so did not get to see how bad a problem it is.The windscreen gets awful wet and no amount of wiping with a cloth can clear it so need to get this sorted as it's ruining my driving enjoyment
remove glovebox and replace the recirculation flap return spring....verry common for these to break.
If is broken...the flap will be forced on closed position all the time.
Goodluck!
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Leave a comment: