Renewing Front Hubs

[caterpillar]

Yup, rear bearings on the S2 Coupe are 75mm

wrong post sorry

[saltinot]

I should have made made the distinction between avant/saloon and the coupe. Sorry

[Jas11n]

The rear bearing is smaller and does not have the step, on the coupe anyways.

Yup, rear bearings on the S2 Coupe are 75mm

[Graham]

The rear bearing is smaller and does not have the step, on the coupe anyways.

[CliveH]

Thanks Tom

[saltinot]

Great write-up (as ever!) Paul

Is the method basically the same for the rear hubs? (which have a different part no.)

The bearings are the same for all four corners. If you reuse the hardware you can just buy the bearing and not the "kit". The hardware (i.e. axle bolt/nut, washer, etc) causes the part number to differ front to rear.

BTW, most Audis take the same bearing 82mm (double bearing), but the fiche will list a different number from model to model. Again, this is due to the hardware that is included. The urS4/S6, S2, RS2, late urq, etc all use the same 82mm bearing.

[CliveH]

Great write-up (as ever!) Paul

Is the method basically the same for the rear hubs? (which have a different part no.)

[Graham]

I have found a good way of doing them in situ with the kit i designed in a post a while ago HERE and a bit of kit hireable from most tool shops. My kits use a screwed rod (M20) which requires 30mm sockets and spanners. Most people dont have these size spanners lying around and an adjustable spanner (Nut Phlucker) is not reccomended. The easiest by far is to use a hollow enerpac, these negate the need for spanners as the nuts are spun on by hand and jack does most of the work.

[mcandmar]

It would be very easy to get that wrong when pressing in a new bearing. Be sure to advise anyone you give this job to be aware of the correct orientation of the bearing as correcting the mistake is probably going to destroy the bearing and require a new one.

Yep BTDT, it does damage the bearing pressing it back out again. I had to run with it for a few weeks until i got a replacement, was noisy as hell.

[Mr.Crossfire]

IMO in the fig. 5 where the hub is pressed to the bearing, the inner sleeve of the bearing should be supported instead of the carrier. If you don't support the inner sleeve(s), there is a risk that the bearing balls dig into the outer sleeve, making marks to the bearing surface -> the bearing life is considerably shortened.

[Greg_S]

I've tidied the thread up and added a redirect so its all in one thread

[S2central.net]

Oh and the correct torque on the hub bolt is 200Nm plus 90 degrees. This needs to be done with the vehicle on the ground.

While I remember, its worth noting the Audi part comes as a kit with a new nyloc nuts for the top strut mount, the track-rod end and the bottom balljoint (with a new bolt also).

Paul

[S2central.net]

More importantly there are TWO internal dimensions on the bearings... As shown on my drawings. The larger internal diameter on the bearing goes to the outside where it engages with the hub.

It would be very easy to get that wrong when pressing in a new bearing. Be sure to advise anyone you give this job to be aware of the correct orientation of the bearing as correcting the mistake is probably going to destroy the bearing and require a new one.

Paul

PS - The SKF part number for the front bearing is BAH-0011 AB - you might be able to get those cheaper/faster from a local motor factor when in desperate need. The Audi part number is 893 498 624E for reference.

[Cullam3n]

Here's a pic I took to show you not to make the same mistake I did. Notice how one side has a inner lip and one wasn't. The side with the flared lip goes toward the car.

[Error404]

Nice work again Paul