6 speed onto 7A engine what parts are needed please?
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Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to get hold of a known genuine S2 item to measure mine up against. If anyone has one I can come and check this against please let me know.Leave a comment:
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its not the right bit that steve. iirc its pretty straight the s2 part. changed from a 6a to an aby in my saloon. its been a while but that looks a bit like the saloon 5 speed rod. it looked like it had been run over. i found a number of very small, sometimes not visible to the eye differences between parts from early saloon and aby. eg steering gator is like 4mm or so smaller on saloon to aby????? go figureLeave a comment:
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If I provide the selector with a bit of clearance from the gearbox casing it's miles out of centre for the gear lever at the rear. Ignore the worn looking section by the casing, this was me grinding a little off the rod to see if I could provide some clearance. There we no marks on the selector rod to suggest it had been rubbing on anything previously. I guess a front end bump would potentially bend the selector rod as it has nowhere to go when the gearbox moved backwards from a decent front end impact. There is reference to a spacer which may be used with the spider plate. I have the spacer as I bought one in the past, but it doesn't look to be required as all the mounting surfaces line up without it.Leave a comment:
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Old thread but I'm hoping someone with some experience of a 5-speed to 6-speed conversion might be able to shed some light on an issue that has been causing me headaches for months now. I fitted a six speed box, linkage and gearbox mount spacer to my S2 whilst rebuilding the engine. Now I've been stuck trying to adjust the linkage for ages from inside and underneath the car. (not much fun when doing this by yourself with no useful assistant!) I must have crawled under the car and back out to test the gearchange a thousand times and got absolutely nowhere. I could select a pair of gears but couldn't adjust the linkage to easily get four out of the six cogs available via the selector mechanism. The left to right movement on the gearstick felt sticky. It also felt like the gear selector wanted to select gears at a slight angle and not front to aft. Today I decided enough was enough and pulled the engine out to get the box forwards to take a look at what was happening. A bit of background on the scenario: All used 2nd hand parts from unknown heritage, however sold as S2 parts. The linkage has been rebuilt with new bushes and a new knuckle joint from Alex, This moves smoothly and the linkage rods don't look to have been bent or damaged (other than a small amount of material I tried grinding off when I was under the car and thought I could feel something rubbing on the linkage. Now I have the box out and the selector in place I can see the issue. The selector rod is binding badly on the gearbox casing and spider plate. I'm guessing I have a mismatch of parts or the selector rod is pretty bent. pics below for reference. Any suggestions other than bending the selector rod? I really don't want to do this if it isn't necessary as these parts are like hens teeth and I'd rather not f**k up a good part unnecessarily
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I have the 6 speed in my 3B. You can use your subframe with the S2/RS2 gearbox mounts with the addition of a spacer on one side between mount and subframe.Leave a comment:
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Hi David
Good to see you back on the forum
I had an 01E on my cq20v. Most of the info is detailed above.
A few things to consider: 01E linkage and gearbox mounts are hard to come by and expensive. Therefore you might want to consider making your own mounts, which would mean you could retain your existing 5 speed subframe and build the mounts to suit.
Gear linkages are like rockin horse **** and sell for strong money. There is no rebuild kit for them and most as well past their best. Therefore its worth considering using a B5 or later linkage which IMHO is a superior design and can be made to work with some basic modifications. These linkages can be bought cheaply and rebuilt. If you decide to use the S2/RS2 linkage, you'll need the gear lever with reverse lock-out as well as the rest of the linkage.
You'll need to modify the clutch line to your slave cylinder so it clears the linkage, or use one from an ABY / ADU car.
You'll need to extend the wiring harness for the reverse light witch and speed sensors on the gearbox, as they are in a different place on the 01E.
If you can't find an ABY coupe prop you can use the front half of an ABY avant prop, mated to the rear half of your 5speed prop. Or get your prop shortened & re-balanced - I know a place not far from you in Holmes Chapel that will do a nice job )
You'll need S2/RS2 front driveshafts - will be a straight fit into your hubs and the 01E.
HTH
Alex
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CBL's were the 6 spd 01E's in the UrS4s that didn't get the CBD 5 spd. Here is one post on that topic:
The Audi Enthusiast website. Forums for all Audis including A4, S4, A5, S5, A6, S6, allroad, A8, S8, TT, R8, Q5, Q7, 4000, 100, 200, v6, v8, vintage, local forums
I think the CBL ratios are the same as the CBM ratios (at least some of them). Here is a link with most of the 01E ratios (Note: Almost all 01Es are 37/9 crown/pinion = 4.11 to 1 ratio final drive):
http://12v.org/urs/charlie_smith/01E/index.htmLeave a comment:
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Hi Caterpillar, My car is an Audi Coupe Quattro 20v, 7A engine but not sure of the transmission. I seem to recall you were building a stroker engine to go in a VW transporter.
Hi John, Yes, I'm still alive, the coupe hasn't moved since 2004. Time has come though.
Nice to be back. I've missed the great level of technical support this forum offers.
I'm also trying to build a new Eaton m45 supercharged midget engine to go in my Morris Minor rally car...
And earn a living....
DavidLeave a comment:
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need the tranny code to have the ratio sorted out: betvenn, or beside the too upper boltholes in bellhousing.. its stamped in: fx... CBL 12345 or AHA 34567.. its ratio, and year, an type of car...Leave a comment:
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