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Unread 20-09-11, 06:48 AM   #16
Greg_S
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Finally managed to make a start on getting the engine apart yesterday afternoon, got most of the engine disconnected now, just the bell housing bolts and the engine mounts to do before we can lift the engine out. So far still havent found the cause of the failure, had a slightly more oily spark plug on no 3 and a tight plug but thats it.

Found a couple of bits I will need if anyone has them too?

For my own ref too:

Throttle cable - The current one has seen better days
Throttle body cam - Need one second hand.
Rubber covers for the steering arms on wheel arches -Second hand will do


Once I know how bad the rest of the engine is I can decide what other bits I will purchase, the turbo bolts were a bit of PITA on the last one underneath due to size of exhaust, but it did eventually come out with some persuasion.
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Unread 20-09-11, 02:54 PM   #17
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Engine is all out and apart now, found the culprit and will post some pictures later.

The no 4 conrod has gone a bit bannana and the rings had completely gone and welded to the crank so I am searching for a replacement crank for mine now.

Bit gutted, but kinda knew it might be the case, on the upside the standard clutch seems to have faired quite well over the last few years which is quite an endorsement for the sachs/LUK combo.
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Unread 20-09-11, 07:20 PM   #18
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Well I have a few images of the damage now, looks like there were a few issues after the rollers and more than likely the root cause was the oil cooler failure.

One bananna rod and knackered bearing shell, well what is left of it.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_150910.jpg (106.8 KB, 240 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_150918.jpg (109.5 KB, 209 views)
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Unread 20-09-11, 07:22 PM   #19
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Never nice to see are you going for updated rods with stock pistons with a rebalance
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Unread 20-09-11, 07:24 PM   #20
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And the crank is definitely looking beyond repair, other than this mess the only other bearing shell showing wear was by the main pulley.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_150858.jpg (67.5 KB, 203 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_133146.jpg (168.8 KB, 184 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_133152.jpg (151.6 KB, 162 views)
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Unread 20-09-11, 07:30 PM   #21
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And considering the S2 has been running alot higher than standard power for the last 9 years since its last engine rebuild the standard clutch hasnt faired too bad
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File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_133215.jpg (130.4 KB, 101 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_133207.jpg (127.3 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20110920_133201.jpg (107.7 KB, 97 views)
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Unread 20-09-11, 07:34 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamo View Post
Never nice to see are you going for updated rods with stock pistons with a rebalance
Yeah I have the rods ready to go, always wished I had upgraded them first time around, but when i was an apprentice on under 10k a year I had to prioritise what I was doing.

Also have a 3B re faced flywheel to fit too. Still goto decide on which clutch to order yet though.

Head looks to be in perfect condition so toying on what to do with that at the moment too, was tempted to have it ported and rebuilt while it is all apart.

Tomorrow im going to spend cleaning up the engine bay and the rest of the block so that I can respray the block and starting build a list of other parts i need to get hold of.

Looks like Spink is able to sort me out with the crank I need which is a big relief.

Also planning on changing the slave cylinder whilst the engine is out since I can see the damn thing now, not sure what it will be like to bleed once the engine is all back in though.

Also got rear calipers and discs to change when I get a chance too.

Looking for a mint front bumper too, but thats a little way off yet.
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Unread 20-09-11, 07:36 PM   #23
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Ouch, thats nasty Have you sourced another bottom end yet?

Edit: Ah, just read your reply
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Unread 20-09-11, 08:34 PM   #24
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Spink is supplying a new crank, I have new rods ready to go in, but rest of bottom end looks good.
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Unread 20-09-11, 09:54 PM   #25
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Greg,

Sorry to see there's some damage done - but all in all it's not too bad, at least it's just crank + rods... the latter you already have replacements for

Take time to do it right, collect parts and I would certainly recommend changing the slave cylinder - bleeding it is not too bad. Also change the clutch release bearing (I forgot when i changed the Avant motor and regretted it) and the engine mounts if they are original (I fitted a used 'looks OK' one on the RS2 driver side and have vibration on left handers now ) also steering rack gaitor and get one of Rusty's alloy coolant adapters... mine fell to pieces when i unbolted it!

Definitely balance it up, they feel so much nicer when done, headwork really improves response and off-boost driveability as I'm finding but it's all about cost... put priority on the neccesary parts and then see what's left. End of the day it's always easier to rebuild the head or change a turbo later than it is to balance a bottom end!

And don't get me started on turbo's... I'm loving my new hybrid
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Unread 21-09-11, 06:15 AM   #26
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Congratulations, I had almost the same damage, but it did not lock up.
Check your oil pump, it's likely "full of rod" and damaged. There goes 230 + VAT...
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Unread 21-09-11, 06:52 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
Greg,

Sorry to see there's some damage done - but all in all it's not too bad, at least it's just crank + rods... the latter you already have replacements for

Take time to do it right, collect parts and I would certainly recommend changing the slave cylinder - bleeding it is not too bad. Also change the clutch release bearing (I forgot when i changed the Avant motor and regretted it) and the engine mounts if they are original (I fitted a used 'looks OK' one on the RS2 driver side and have vibration on left handers now ) also steering rack gaitor and get one of Rusty's alloy coolant adapters... mine fell to pieces when i unbolted it!

Definitely balance it up, they feel so much nicer when done, headwork really improves response and off-boost driveability as I'm finding but it's all about cost... put priority on the neccesary parts and then see what's left. End of the day it's always easier to rebuild the head or change a turbo later than it is to balance a bottom end!

And don't get me started on turbo's... I'm loving my new hybrid
Yeah I could be worse I guess. Fortunately the engine mounts are both near enough new, I only changed them 6 months ago. Was a right PITA to get the mount off beneath turbo because the exhaust is quite rigid at the moment and access was not easy. I wasnt able to remove the turbo to get to the bolts because I could shift the downpipe enough to reach the bottom bolt so fiddled around underneath, should be interesting refitting it back in again.

How much does it cost to get the bottom end balanced? May replace the pump this time, I will see what its like inside when I take it apart later on.

Also I need to order bits for fitting the 3B flywheel, I can see there are the two locating spigots that will need to be changed, can the existing bolts be reused or do I need to order 3B ones? Is there a guide with P/N's on for the conversion.

The release bearing is the same on ABY and 3B isnt it?

I will have to wait until I have the rest of parts ordered, but reckon my existing injectors would benefit from a clean or an upgrade. I have seen alot of people have moved to the EV14's, but if I change these will I be able to run without a remap straight after the rebuild?
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Unread 21-09-11, 11:33 AM   #28
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Update of list of bits for me:

Need one of these

Throttle cable - The current one has seen better days
Throttle body cam - Need one second hand.
Rubber covers for the steering arms on wheel arches -Second hand will do
Gasket sets
New hex bolt for PAS mounting bracket on head
2 x exhaust manifold studs and nuts for RS2 manifold
clutch slave cylinder

Also took the head apart today to take a look at it and there is a bit of wear on the cams, but prob be ok. Im after recommendations on who I can goto to get the bores checked out and get the head checked over too?
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Unread 21-09-11, 11:35 AM   #29
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Just been having a look at piston rings threads too and found this thread Which rings for OE pistons? Are the GSF ones good on higher power too?
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Unread 21-09-11, 01:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_S View Post
I have seen alot of people have moved to the EV14's, but if I change these will I be able to run without a remap straight after the rebuild?
If you have no boost leaks and your MAF is ok, and you don't mind replacing two chips in the ECU, I can send you chips with a base map for bedding in the engine with the EV14 injectors.

If you don't change anything and fit bigger injectors than you had (especially much bigger), it won't run properly as it will overfuel a lot, which is not good for running in.

This is some time away though...
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