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Power window and sunroof problem fix.

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  • Power window and sunroof problem fix.

    **Due to the large amounts of PM's I get over this, please first check your windows/sunroof relay for cracked soldering joints. You can see pictures of this further down this thread. It's a cheap no cost fix if they have cracked. If not, carry on reading**

    I've had a gremlin with my windows and sunroof for at least a couple of years now.
    At first, well for the first 18 months or so, this was very very intermittent.

    The problem effected both windows and the sunroof at the same time. They would just cease to work at random intervals. The windows would cease to work along with the sunroof, the switch lights would be out, confirming no current to the switches was being supplied along with some probing with a DMM.
    For the last six months they have been getting worse, switching off a regular intervals for no apparent reason. That is until the last two months ago when I've noticed this problem is temperature related. The warmer the weather, the warmer the inside of the cabin and the more frequent the windows and roof ceased to work.

    Now initially after doing lots of thread reading, all posts pointed at the power window/sunroof relay. I replaced that with no less than four others, all good working examples. They ain't cheap either, even secondhand.
    As they all ceased to function together at once, and both front windows along with the sunroof worked brilliantly when actually working, meaning no squealing, no struggling, no grinding noises, both motors free from water ingress, all cables sound, grease in the regulator and on the motors worm drive not old and hard, then they themselves individually weren't the problem.

    There's a lot of posts on here that refer to thermal relays, but all state (those I could find anyway) that it's in the large control relay or one on each individual motor.

    But there is another, one that effects the whole circuit in general and not just one window or the roof on their own.
    I spotted this on the loom I have for the set of opening rears I've not yet got round to fitting. Hmm, I wonder if this could be the little blighter then. Car interior gets hot, ignition on and current flowing through it cause the fuse to trip. Cools down and then power restored?
    Got chance to have a look today with help from my bro (I've got a bad back again). Sure enough, turning the ignition on saw the windows work for a couple of minutes, then all power was cut. Dropped the drivers parcel shelf down and easily located the fuse I was looking for, it sits right in front of the large control relay for the windows/sunroof. There's three of them all located in the same place. The one I needed was the one that's located into it's own holder, the other two are in a twin holder and are for another system on the car. Sorry I couldn't grab a picture (not like me I know). It's a 20a fuse, part number 443 937 105. (pic further down)
    After replacing with the one from my spare loom, all was sorted.

    Today I thought I'd rip the old one open and have a look at it's insides to see how it worked and why it was misbehaving.
    Its a simple enough thing, two terminals, one live the other earth go into it. Inside it has a contract breaker type relay strip with a small coil of wire wrapped around it. Putting enough current through the wire will heat the strip up enough for it to bend and lose it's contact.
    Indeed, hooking up a simple 9v PP3 battery with a couple of clips was enough the heat up the strip and it lost contact.
    Current from the 12v system on the car (no idea of the amperage though) coupled with it already being hot inside it's metal casing, must have been all that was needed to create hell on with my windows.

    Ok, I know some will think "So? WTF? that's nowt, an easy fix"

    BUT!, when you've spend a daft amount of time chasing the normally mentioned relays, motor faults, cables, power to the switches, dodgy switches and the all the rest, and then it turns out to be a simple fix like this! well! why not post up your findings? Could save someone else time and money. The fuse is only £7 (and even then, I already had one), whereas I've paid over £70 for for four perfectly fine relays
    (edit, after some more searching today I've come across a couple of posts noting these thermal relay / fuses)

    Contacts closed;



    Contacts open after only 30 secs on a 9v battery;








    Last edited by Jas11n; 24 March 2012, 11:58.
    2001 Avus Silver B5 RS4.
    2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport-LE.
    1995 S2 Coupe - sold (sniff)

  • #2
    i need one of those as well then.I have that problem intermittantly,but i cannot say that i have noticed any heat related problem with it.I hope it is this one rather than anything else.
    I dont have that relay though,so i might as well order it at some point.I do have the large relay for the windows already as a spare as well.Ill go first with that relay though

    thanks for noticing jase!Hope your back get better soon!
    Vasilis

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you for posting.

      I think I might have this exact problem, ( No sunroof though ), where my windows stop working when I get onto the car and there is no rhyme or reason to their misbehaviour.

      It also affects my electric door mirrors, although this may be a separate issue?.

      Will buy a new fuse and see what happens. Had put off doing anything about it, but it was annoying and intermittent, but when it did happen you had to drive of in a hot car with no ability to open the windows and so had to wait for the air con to start chilling to stop one melting. Also happened when I wanted to shut the windows at the end of a journey. Hopefully this is the cure for me also.

      As mentioned, thanks for posting.

      Kind regards.

      Comment


      • #4
        Cant you use a multimeter? When the electrical consumer doesnt work what do you check? Power suply and remote first and then with a wire make a bridge to get one or other consumer moving. Always you have to check the suplyes before changing components.
        S2+AAN in progress (again), BMW 3 compact

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        • #5
          I did check supply with a DMM. When they weren't working I had no power to motors, switches or the control relay. Problem was that I didn't realise there was a separate thermal fuse "before" the control relay. I'd read LOTS of posts saying the thermal fuse was in the relay itself along with one in each motor.
          I ain't no auto electrician, I only posted this so that others who may not be great with vehicle electrics had another avenue to check
          2001 Avus Silver B5 RS4.
          2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport-LE.
          1995 S2 Coupe - sold (sniff)

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          • #6
            Cheers for posting it up jas, I was wondering exactly what those fuses was for when I fitted my rear windows.

            @ vasilis I think i might have one or two of them if you want to try them first?

            Comment


            • #7
              too late Peter,i already ordered one! grrr

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by PapVas View Post
                too late Peter,i already ordered one! grrr
                still nevermind at least its something you can hopefully not worry about.

                Comment


                • #9
                  yes,i hope it will cure it...otherwise ill have to put jase into some more looking around! hahaha

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Another fault put to bed and meticulously archived by you Jase, well done. I haven't seen one of these fail before but they are always worth checking of course. This thermo fuse is referenced as S43 on the wiring diagrams.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Good post Jas

                      S2 Coupe 3B Project


                      Ur quattro restoration

                      S2 Avant

                      Boost is the new rock and roll!
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        replaced today the relay with the green unit with the 30A rather than the 20A fuse.Lets see if it makes a difference!
                        thanks again Jase!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by PapVas View Post
                          replaced today the relay with the green unit with the 30A rather than the 20A fuse.Lets see if it makes a difference!
                          thanks again Jase!
                          Fingers crossed
                          2001 Avus Silver B5 RS4.
                          2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport-LE.
                          1995 S2 Coupe - sold (sniff)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Pat on the back for you Sir

                            I got same problem


                            cheers

                            rich
                            sigpic
                            "For what you spent on that you could have brought a new car"
                            BUT I DON'T WANT A NEW CAR!

                            1995 S2 Avant, Volcano Black
                            1982 VW Golf Mk1, primer yellow, will be finished one day, maybe.
                            2003 VW T4 long nose X pack, (has become project)

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                            • #15
                              It is posts like this that make the forum what it is! Thanks Jas, what a PITA that was going to be to find! Mine has only done it twice, but now I think of it both in hot weather (even Aberdeen gets hot sometimes!)

                              Am I right in thinking that this breaker is to prevent overload on the window motors and to provide some sort of 'anti finger getting cut off the hand should they be in they way of the window' protection? If so, I think a new 20A one would be better than a 30A just for the sake of it? These things will have a life cycle, so I think one in 10-15 years is not too bad

                              Le Mans 2012
                              Nurburgring 700
                              1995 S2 Avant

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