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Ok, well I figure it’s about time I started a project thread on this. Project XFL B5S4
D2 A8 facelift 40V autobox
Tiptronic gone
40v gone
INSERT 2.7T and O1E 6 speed here
So I’ll keep the back story short and sweet. I picked up this a8 from a friend kinda deal after a third party friend lightly bumper bendered another car. So I got it on the cheap. The weird history of the car has it being totaled via hail damage and then smoothed / re-sprayed at Sewickley Audi outside Pittsburgh. So the paint is ultra -fresh and smooth, needs the bumper and a fender painted, but all in all a great deal and a helluva score! IN the past I had a b5 s4 that was great and all it was just a royal pain to work on. That engine all jammed up in there and no way to fit a wrench anywhere. Ive managed a great deal on a 6speed 2.7t A6 from a good friend. So I’m making myself a XFL B5 S4!!!! Basically a bigger, comfy s4 hahaha. Rocket couch type ride!!
The 40v is running fine as is the trans!!! both will be up for grabs shortly. I’ve worked on enough audi v8’s to know I don’t want one ahhaha. I will be able to get more power and significantly better fuel mileage with the 2.7t over the 4.2 40v. but even more importantly, there will be soooo much more room around the motor itself. The d2 is much wider than a b5/c5 and is in an obviously longer v8 engine bay. As I am doing a manual swap at the same time, the driveshaft will need extending. It will need extending even if I keep the bellhousing position the same. The 01e trans are sooo much shorter than the TIP equivalents. I am going to most likely, push the motor/bellhousing flange forward about 1 – 1.5”. yes, this is counter to helping the vehicle’s balance. The 2.7t is ~50 lbs. heavier than the alloy 40v’s. That said the 2.7t has a lot more of its weight sunk down low with the iron block and rearward with the turbos hanging off the back. And with it not being nearly as long as a 40v, having more leverage hanging off the front over the axles, I think the weight is pretty much a wash. The motor being pushed forward a tad will give me a lot more room to work around the side and back of the motor, esp. near the turbochargers. And this will still give me a good amount of room to make a nice mandrel bent, non-pancaked-tube, IC>TB hardpipes and eliminate the troublesome factory Y shaped TBB.
There has been sooo much more development / cracking of the motronic ecu’s since even a few years ago. This will help make this swap significantly easier. Basic ecu mods rundown
18 psi peak to 15psi taper by redline
Setup for newer 2.0T pushdown coils, reduced dwell time
Rear 02 / cat deletes
All EGTs delete
PCV/ Emissions Delete
SAI delete
Immo delete, A8 is gen3 Immo so it’s a bit complicated
The fact that ALL these above things don’t need to be there is a HUGE advantage. And will simplify things dramatically.
Engine Mods
Custom ME7 tune with lots of deletes
Full 3" ss304 downpipes with 3.5" wide bellmouths, no cats and 3" midpipes to rear muffler
Custom Treadstone Intercooler, 25"x6"x3.5" vertical core, 2x inlets, single outlet to>Custom IC>TB alloy hard-pipes
Integrated Engineering 2.0T push down coil adapter plates
OEM 2.0T push down coils
Re-wired, ICM deletes
Mechanical fan delete, add electric fan to radiator shroud
External oil cooler
Drivetrain / Trans Swap basics
• O1e six speed and c5 a6 2.7t rear diff (short nose like a8, bolts right in)
• Custom trans mounts (I have these available as well)
• Lengthened driveshaft (4.5” for mating to 40v, I’m going about 5.5-6” to help center the 2.7t oil pan in subframe and facilitate working on everything.
• Modified a8 pedal cluster with clutch pedal, cruise control switch etc.
• Front axles are urS4/6 units (front passenger) and use a 1” spacer that I make for the front/pass a8 location (spacers available)
• Custom stainless clutch line
• OEM b5 rs4 clutch kit
• And I’m sure there’s more but I’ll get to that later.
AND because we all like pics!!!!!> well I gotta go to work ahaha ill upload them all tonight
D2 A8 facelift 40V autobox
Tiptronic gone
40v gone
INSERT 2.7T and O1E 6 speed here
So I’ll keep the back story short and sweet. I picked up this a8 from a friend kinda deal after a third party friend lightly bumper bendered another car. So I got it on the cheap. The weird history of the car has it being totaled via hail damage and then smoothed / re-sprayed at Sewickley Audi outside Pittsburgh. So the paint is ultra -fresh and smooth, needs the bumper and a fender painted, but all in all a great deal and a helluva score! IN the past I had a b5 s4 that was great and all it was just a royal pain to work on. That engine all jammed up in there and no way to fit a wrench anywhere. Ive managed a great deal on a 6speed 2.7t A6 from a good friend. So I’m making myself a XFL B5 S4!!!! Basically a bigger, comfy s4 hahaha. Rocket couch type ride!!
The 40v is running fine as is the trans!!! both will be up for grabs shortly. I’ve worked on enough audi v8’s to know I don’t want one ahhaha. I will be able to get more power and significantly better fuel mileage with the 2.7t over the 4.2 40v. but even more importantly, there will be soooo much more room around the motor itself. The d2 is much wider than a b5/c5 and is in an obviously longer v8 engine bay. As I am doing a manual swap at the same time, the driveshaft will need extending. It will need extending even if I keep the bellhousing position the same. The 01e trans are sooo much shorter than the TIP equivalents. I am going to most likely, push the motor/bellhousing flange forward about 1 – 1.5”. yes, this is counter to helping the vehicle’s balance. The 2.7t is ~50 lbs. heavier than the alloy 40v’s. That said the 2.7t has a lot more of its weight sunk down low with the iron block and rearward with the turbos hanging off the back. And with it not being nearly as long as a 40v, having more leverage hanging off the front over the axles, I think the weight is pretty much a wash. The motor being pushed forward a tad will give me a lot more room to work around the side and back of the motor, esp. near the turbochargers. And this will still give me a good amount of room to make a nice mandrel bent, non-pancaked-tube, IC>TB hardpipes and eliminate the troublesome factory Y shaped TBB.
There has been sooo much more development / cracking of the motronic ecu’s since even a few years ago. This will help make this swap significantly easier. Basic ecu mods rundown
18 psi peak to 15psi taper by redline
Setup for newer 2.0T pushdown coils, reduced dwell time
Rear 02 / cat deletes
All EGTs delete
PCV/ Emissions Delete
SAI delete
Immo delete, A8 is gen3 Immo so it’s a bit complicated
The fact that ALL these above things don’t need to be there is a HUGE advantage. And will simplify things dramatically.
Engine Mods
Custom ME7 tune with lots of deletes
Full 3" ss304 downpipes with 3.5" wide bellmouths, no cats and 3" midpipes to rear muffler
Custom Treadstone Intercooler, 25"x6"x3.5" vertical core, 2x inlets, single outlet to>Custom IC>TB alloy hard-pipes
Integrated Engineering 2.0T push down coil adapter plates
OEM 2.0T push down coils
Re-wired, ICM deletes
Mechanical fan delete, add electric fan to radiator shroud
External oil cooler
Drivetrain / Trans Swap basics
• O1e six speed and c5 a6 2.7t rear diff (short nose like a8, bolts right in)
• Custom trans mounts (I have these available as well)
• Lengthened driveshaft (4.5” for mating to 40v, I’m going about 5.5-6” to help center the 2.7t oil pan in subframe and facilitate working on everything.
• Modified a8 pedal cluster with clutch pedal, cruise control switch etc.
• Front axles are urS4/6 units (front passenger) and use a 1” spacer that I make for the front/pass a8 location (spacers available)
• Custom stainless clutch line
• OEM b5 rs4 clutch kit
• And I’m sure there’s more but I’ll get to that later.
AND because we all like pics!!!!!> well I gotta go to work ahaha ill upload them all tonight
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