Difference between UR, WR & RR

[Sephiroth401]

Could anyone tell me the difference between UR, WR, RR & sport quattros
I have done searches but so far I still don't know.
Only asking cus there is this guy whos selling a mint quattro but I want to know if its the right kind of quattro to be spending cash-moneye for.
Cheers

[s2driveruk]

I'd ask this question in the quattroownersclub.com site as they must have a mountain of answers but as far as i know:

UR - Abbrv for Original Quattro, the 'Daddy'
WR - Is a 10v engine code for one of the first UR quattro's I think with 200bhp
RR - The 20v, final evolution of the UR quattro - pretty much the same as a 3b engine in the s2 but different I/c and gearbox and I'm sure a load of other things, but essentially 220bhp
Sport Quattro - Short wheelbase Homologation Rally special of which about 214 were made in total. Rare, obvious to sport, very expensive and I think only 6 were ever officially imported to the UK, all LHD. IIRC, the fuel flap alone is £750 and the bonnet something like £10k as they are made from kevlar.

Sure someone will be along in a mo to give you a fuller run down but I think thats a starter for 10...

[s2driveruk]

this might help from Phil Paynes excellent site....

http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/history.html

[Puglife]

UR is the name for the shape of quattro with block arches... includes WR,MB and RR.

WR is 10v first turbo 2144cc quattro..
MB is the 10v turbo 2226cc quattro (revised with better turbo but same power)
RR is the 20v type 85 Quattro.
the sport was 320mm shorter than the type 85 and had a 306bhp 20vturbo engine.

As regards prices...
WR prices vary heavily, MB is rare so values more normally and RR is seen as being the daddy and most expensive (£10k+). It all depends on what you think its worth

[stevieyid]

Make sure its a good one mate. Check for rotting from the inside out. My brother paid 4k for his and ended up paying about 8-9k getting it back to its former glory. I paid 7k for mine but it had all that work already done to it. Brilliant cars though

[Puglife]

paid 2k for my pearl white and its off road now being restored...
as long as the body is mint most of the mechanical parts can be replaced, but as said have a thorough look over it before settling

[AUDI9020V]

ya the body needs to be right,i think its so bad at audi that everything is end of line.unless theres a secret stash of parts somewhere in germany.

[Corey]

MB is the 10v turbo 2226cc quattro (revised with better turbo but same power)

better turbo, pah rubbish, Audi only fitted the K24 to reduce lag and made it watercooled because people were cooking the bearings due to hammering the K26 and not letting them idle to cool down.
More refined would be a better term.

[~Delta]

...Power and torque of both WR and MB were identical, but MB peak torque was produced 500rpm lower. Was easier to drive as a result.

But, I prefer the character of the WR, very raw and gruff, 5 cylinder 'warble' much more pronounced and entertaining.

[mark_s2]

Early UR quattros were left hand drive only although GTI Engineering carried out a number of RHD conversions. Most will have analogue dashes, manual cable diff locks and twin headlights and nasty brown velour interiors.

1983 / 84 WR's have vertical headlights. Everything else post 85 are angled. If I remeber correctly pre 1984 have 7 inch ronals post 8inch and sport 9 inch.

Engine parts (pistons etc) for WR's are getting difficult to find. Cloth interiors also wear badly (drivers seat blosters etc). Watch for a ticking noise at idle as cracked exhaust manifolds are common - this is usually caused either by mileage or failing engine mounts and are difficult to replace. Tappets wear but are not a cause for concern.

Later MB and RR cars were galvanised - but not all panels. RR and MB have plastic boots WR's are metal.

The thing you really need to watch for is rot. Be very careful and examine all the box sections at the back and front of the car. Be very cautious if the car has had a recent respray these usually cover up all manner of problems.

Front valance and wings are especially prone to gravel rash and rear wheel arches rot between the double skins. Check the door pillars and the inner wings at the top.

Brakes need a good shove my modern standards. Rear calipers seize and the accumulators fail. Start the engine then stop it - you should get at least 5- 10 pumps of the pedal before it goes hard id not you will need the accumulator replacing. ABS on the MB and RR can fail and is expensive to but right.

These are great cars but beware they are money pits. My brother has spent close to 11K now bringing his RR up to scratch.

One more thing - if the car you are looking at is wearing it's original ronal's then the only tyre that is now available in 215 50 15 is dunlop SP's. No other makes are available in this size so check the tyres carefully.

[Sephiroth401]

Cheers Everyone for the info, will try and use it to the best.
I don't know which version this one is but I'll find out.
I was told that the car was put in dry store for nearly 18months - 2years I think (also said they got it out to keep it going in that time) and thats the only down bit.
Its one owner from new a guy who builds F1 cars...
Its got lots of spare everything incl. engine, doors etc...
A well looked after piece of kit so I'm told. Trying to get his number to find out more

[piotr]

Hi,just quick one ,is ABY and RR conrods are the same?

[Mikes2]

different part numbers.

RR and 7A are the same

[piotr]

Ok,thank you

[UrS4boy]

RR and 7A are the same

Umm...No.

They are absolutely NOT the same.

7A = 20 valve inline 5, normally-aspirated

RR = 20 valve inline 5, turbo, K24-7000 turbo. Very similar to the 3B in the early S2 coupes.