Recommended water and corrosion protection for running gear fixings.

[Nuvo]

I find it all a bit depressing to see freshly fitted nuts and bolts are starting to show signs of light corrosion under the car after little road use and that's before road salt has hit the roads for winter conditions.

So I'd like to try and protect these parts from further corrosion before the start of the winter weather. I'm looking for something that is highly water and corrosion resistant and requires minimal maintenance, I was thinking about using a white marine grease but I'm not sure if this is the best thing to use.

What do people recommend? I'd be particularly interested to hear what members use in countries with very wet or hard winter weather conditions.

Thanks in advance.

[AndyP]

I've used ACF50 in the past but if you watch Youtube reviews of this stuff, it's a clear winner

https://xcp-protection.com/products/xcp-rust-blocker/

[John.]

I use Bilt Hamber wax, I'm not fussy that you can see it but they do one you can't...….. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...ments/dynax-uc

[Lago Blue]

My approach would be as follows:

1. Divide anti-corrosion products your considering into end results / ease of application / remove-ability categories / and cost such as:

a) cures and hardens like a paint, but also could be a body-schutz or rock-guard (these are textured but paint-able), or a rubberized asphalt, could also be a high zinc content paint. Most $ and difficult to apply / remove, it also chips off;
b) dries, but is removable with simple solvents (could be a spray tar that eventually dries, or something like John's suggestion above and perhaps Andy's too? Are they waxes?); &
c) stays wet and will migrate some but heals and tends to even itself back out after contacted (used oil, wax/oil mix, new oil/grease mixes often spray applied hot). Least $. Applied / washed away most easily.

2. Then for each case consider its' location and use what you figure you can get away with, your preference tilted more towards the wetter end of the list wherever possible, but bearing in mind whether it will stay put sufficiently, their increased flammability and likelihood to damage what undercoating/paint/plastic/rubber it may also contact; and try to use as little as possible;

3. Always assemble fasteners with either anti-seize, tar or Loctite;

4. Consider if and how soon you will need to disturb item for maintenance and will treatment collect dirt at that location;

5. I do remember someone here suggested a particular anti-corrosive wrap or tape (available in the UK?) for tie-rod adjusters in particular, someone else suggested inner tube covers, but I've only used tar alone so far;

6. Consider if product, as it fails or is partially removed, will it trap water and/or perhaps then both promote corrosion and hide same from detection;

7. By use of the above criteria, you end up choosing based on balancing the necessary frequency / difficulty of having to apply whatever vs its co-incident ease of removal / persistence;

In Canada, Rust Check makes products to cover off a couple of the above, the one I use the most of ("Coat & Protect" in the green and silver can) is a wax/oil that does not dry, it's almost a gel; and I also like the ordinary Fluid-Film aerosol (Made in USA) which is a little thinner going on, but it is about 3x as expensive as the near equivalent Rust Check. Even though I use tar less frequently (it does eventually dry) it is perhaps the most persistent of the non-paint coatings I've used. Under the car and in the wheel-wells, paint-brushing tar onto your clean and dry individual fasteners will be tedious but may last longest. How difficult something is to get off your hands is often a reflection of how long it will stay on the car.

[Bowie69]

Denso tape is what you are thinking of for #5, I think?

[AndyP]

5. I do remember someone here suggested a particular anti-corrosive wrap or tape (available in the UK?) for tie-rod adjusters in particular, someone else suggested inner tube covers, but I've only used tar alone so far;

That would be me, and yes it was Denso tape


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Denso-DEN...sAAOSwevlaL-Vi

[Nuvo]

Thanks for the replies.
XCP Rust Blocker tests are really impressive indeed, the only downside I can see is it's stickiness which some people regard as a dirt magnet, I'm not sure if that is something to worry about.

For fasteners, I think Bilt Hamber's Dynax-UC certainly ticks all the boxes for me, it's clear, it's easy to apply, a proper coating is microns thick so there's no need to remove it, just reapply it if the fasteners need to be undone.

I'll probably give XCP a blast too on some of the more difficult to reach areas.

Yes, Denso tape is what I have on my track-rod adjusters. It's perfect for the job.

Please keep the recommendations and suggestions coming.

[macspring]

A smearing of everything in copper grease, as well as the bolts threads and bolt channels works well, ask anyone who's had to remove / disassemble the rear suspension of a B4q.

While grit and dust stick to the copper grease it won't go rusty, and will still open / adjust. The level of rusty proofing / paint durability that say a new upper rear wishbone comes with is nonsense. Copper grease is easy to apply with a small paint brush and an old tooth brush. Copper grease on the threads that are used to adjust the tracking work perfectly.