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Looking to purchase original locking tool for AAN engine. I know www.ultraperformance.co.uk have them listed, but currently out of stock. Anywhere else one could get their hands on one?
Also, I believe with correct locking tool 350Nm was sufficient for lower crank bolt?
'93 Audi 100 Avant - R.I.P
'92 Audi UrS4 Avant - SOLD
'93 Audi UrS4 Avant LPG
There is a extension you use with a torque wrench which allows you use a wrench that only goes to 350NM the crank bolt itself is tightened to 450 NM, it doesn't matter how you lock the crank that's the torque that's specified.
You can achieve 450NM by torquing the bolt to 200NM and adding 180 degrees, you need 3/4 drive tools to do this safely, it's really tight!
You can make a crank locking tool using a bit of box section steel with a notch cut out and a big set of pipe grips, or it can be done by using a pry bar in the flywheel ring gear teeth, I'm not very keen on this method but it does work.
I can make you a tool that will lock any I5 engine that use's this bottom pulley key type, I could lend you mine but you'd have to pay postage both ways, I don't really like the factory tools.
Soon as I clapped my eyes on it I thought the locking tool looks familiar ! I have a genuine locking tool for ABY/7A but haven't compared it to the Crafter kit yet.
If the above kit will do the job it could be a very good buy?!
The VW tool fit's our engines, but does not lock it at TDC on cylinder one so requires a bit of faffing about... I've used my tool to do a T4 so know it'll work but seem to recall it locks it about 90 degrees out. Still for £25 I could live with it and make it work.
I have a homemade tool that sits on the crash bar (?) and locks the crank. Been used twice now and done the job, but OEM always feels that bit more secure.
'93 Audi 100 Avant - R.I.P
'92 Audi UrS4 Avant - SOLD
'93 Audi UrS4 Avant LPG
If you've got a home made solution that works I'd go with that, the OEM tool really isn't anything special, or you could purchase one of those T4 kit's that John linked to and modify that.
Fair enough, might need to invest in a 3/4" breaker bar though for those 180 degrees
Yeah, I would... I've broke two 1/2" drive ones which I then had to weld up solid to finish the job before I invested in a cheap set of six side 3/4 impact sockets and a decent quality bar, both from eBay, cost about £50 but that was over ten years ago so probably double that now. The 3/4 drive bar is useful for stubborn hub nuts as well so it's worth investing in one.
Yeah, I would... I've broke two 1/2" drive ones which I then had to weld up solid to finish the job before I invested in a cheap set of six side 3/4 impact sockets and a decent quality bar, both from eBay, cost about £50 but that was over ten years ago so probably double that now. The 3/4 drive bar is useful for stubborn hub nuts as well so it's worth investing in one.
Gone on the shopping list
'93 Audi 100 Avant - R.I.P
'92 Audi UrS4 Avant - SOLD
'93 Audi UrS4 Avant LPG
I recently did an AAN cam belt and can confirm the ABY tool doesn't work. The AAN tool is the same as the 2.5 diesel tool. I borrowed one from my VAG mechanic friend. I will dig out a pic. As Kit says, it locks the engine off TDC. Not a big deal and easy to work around.
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
Here is the £25 2.5 TDI tool in action on an ABY engine with AC. You need a 3/4 inch bar to steady it but it works fine. IMG_3098.JPG
That's pretty much how I use my homemade ABY/7A/3B tool on a T4 engine, £25 for the VW tool and a 3/4 solid bar is way less expenditure than a factory S2 tool and a better job IMO. I have to admit I'm yet to do an AAN but know I'd be able to.
That does make life much easier, I've always managed with a 3/4 bar that's about a 4 feet long, James (Olbi) did the 180 degree's on his car as my elbow simply isn't up to it and he just about managed. I have a suspicion 200NM + 180 degree's is more like 600NM from the calculations I've done but that's what every source of data specifies so that's what I've always gone with.
It is insanely tight, why people feel the need to use thread lock on them as well is a total mystery to me.
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