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nothing wrong with the 6a. the abf got a longer stroke so a tad smoother. the main advantages of the ABF and where it gets most of its smoothness freom is the EFI.
go megasquirt or get a digi 1 loom and ECu from a G60. talk to bilal or danny at SNS for a chip. go for a bigger injector map so the squirters are not coded to go static.
a twin ex cam efi setup on a 6a is good for 170hp or so.
I have no idea what any of that even means but i'd love it in my 16v.
For now i'll stick to getting an MOT on the S2 and leave the 16v as it for the wife.
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1990 CQ20v
2001 3.0 B6 A4 Avant Quattro Sport
bmw engines cannot be compared. they are totally different.
there is no way a 2.8v6 is better on juice than a 2l16v. you got a problem with the kjet there.
you would be better off using etka i think for the info. not many on here know the 6a and NM id expect.
i took a 6a out of a 1990 80 sport. the engine mounts in the same way and the position of the mounts looks similar. didn't measire so couldn't say if in the same spot or not. the brakets are different from what i can remember. i chopped the intake and exhaust in half and the mount bracket on the nearside. basically ripped it out.
I have no idea what any of that even means but i'd love it in my 16v.
For now i'll stick to getting an MOT on the S2 and leave the 16v as it for the wife.
the cams on a 16v run like the s2 but have the toothed wheel on the oposite end. a chain times up the 2 cams as per the s2.
on a 16v the exhaust cams are all the same be it 9a,6a,pl,KR,ABF but the inlets are different with the KR being the best. im not sure on exact data but the ex cam has around 11mm of lift standard. maybe a tad more. the inlet has around 9 on the 9a,6a, l and abf and 10.2 or so on the KR. you can take an exhaust cam chop the snout for mounting the pulley on straight off and trim the dizzy timing end and fit it intro the inlet slot. a toothed wheel with a different keyway cut is needed. some 7 or so degree's different IIRC. this times the 2 exhaust cams up. you then get 11.odd mm of lift across the cams. this give more power everywhere and is proven.
when stealth did their TT conversions this was a part of the kit. it works great on NA too.
the rest is EFI. digi 1 is a corrado/golf ecu type. its cheap and SNS are superb at this. they have re-written the code to remove fuel lag, the catchup when coming on boost fast with turbos.
bmw engines cannot be compared. they are totally different.
there is no way a 2.8v6 is better on juice than a 2l16v. you got a problem with the kjet there.
you would be better off using etka i think for the info. not many on here know the 6a and NM id expect.
i took a 6a out of a 1990 80 sport. the engine mounts in the same way and the position of the mounts looks similar. didn't measire so couldn't say if in the same spot or not. the brakets are different from what i can remember. i chopped the intake and exhaust in half and the mount bracket on the nearside. basically ripped it out.
well o had this engine in two cars, and in both exactly the same consumption. 11l/100km, driving it very very nicely, and not much of city cyrcle.
new lambda, new cables, new sparkplugs, new termostat. what should i try?
i put 5 cylinder turbo into my 16v b4 quattro and all i needed to was mounts of 5cylinder 80/coupe and the rad mounts, bolted to the standard gearbox. also did it in b3 quattro but ended up cutting b4 mounts off the chassis legs and welding them on the b3 hth
i put 5 cylinder turbo into my 16v b4 quattro and all i needed to was mounts of 5cylinder 80/coupe and the rad mounts, bolted to the standard gearbox. also did it in b3 quattro but ended up cutting b4 mounts off the chassis legs and welding them on the b3 hth
so for the B4, you intended engine mounts (alu+rubber)? not the welded bracket? Is so, this means no mods
All B4 I4 use I5-style brackets welded to the chassis rails.
They are the same. Quite different from B3 I4 cars, where the 80 had the brackets on the subframe, and only the 90 had the brackets welded to the chassis.
When your swap will be finished please calculate all your swap costs.(welding, fabrication, mechanic all spare parts, and wasted time) I am sure the total would raise your consumpton for another 50%/10.000km. If you want to save some money buy golf diesel or something like that.When you decide to do a swap, put in 2.2 t engine and fun will starts
Lukač has the point. Isnt it stupid to invest 2k€ for lowering fuel consumption? At 1l/100km diference it will take jou 200.000km to gain the diference. Go for 2,2t. I have one I dont need together with loom and ecu if youre interested. And did you ever ask anyone abouf consumption of an NM engine? Dont forget to modifiy all the things thah needs to be modified starting from cooler, clutch, hoses and all palstic bits and pieces. I have another idea for you take that damn 45 size foot of the accelerator pedal this is not a diesel its an NA engine that doesn't have a kick. Again 2,2t is the konstructin error that needs to be in your car.
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