Bulb replacement

[rs2315]

Temp bulb out on instrument cluster.
Plan to remove cluster and replace all bulbs while I'm in there.
Please can someone tell me how many bulbs there are, and voltage, part numbers would be good.
Thanks to anyone who can help.

rs2315.

[BrianSmith_S2]

Temp bulb out on instrument cluster.
Plan to remove cluster and replace all bulbs while I'm in there.
Please can someone tell me how many bulbs there are, and voltage, part numbers would be good.
Thanks to anyone who can help.

rs2315.

I think its one of these little ******s 12V 1.2 W

you can get them from halfords (bosch) for about 50p to a £1 each, or you can do what i did and get a pack of 10 for about 50p from local autofactors.

hope this helps

Brian

[rs2315]

I think its one of these little ******s 12V 1.2 W

you can get them from halfords (bosch) for about 50p to a £1 each, or you can do what i did and get a pack of 10 for about 50p from local autofactors.

hope this helps

Brian

Cheers Brian.
I've done a search on bulbs and instrument cluster.
Looks like theres plenty of bulbs at back of there.
Looks like ambient temp needs to be resoldered to replace it.
I'm just going to replace bulbs that are illuminated when lights are on.
Dimmer stalk is full on and illumination is poor, so new bulbs should do the trick.

Ta very much.

rs2315.

[BrianSmith_S2]

Cheers Brian.
I've done a search on bulbs and instrument cluster.
Looks like theres plenty of bulbs at back of there.
Looks like ambient temp needs to be resoldered to replace it.
I'm just going to replace bulbs that are illuminated when lights are on.
Dimmer stalk is full on and illumination is poor, so new bulbs should do the trick.

Ta very much.

rs2315.

Sorry, i thought you meant the oil temp illumination, not the dash bulbs. they are different to the ones shown in the photos above, they have a plastic moulding that you twist into the board.
btw, the ambient doesnt need to be soldered, i just replaced the bulb that was faulty with a new one. will try n post a piccy

[Jas11n]

Would love to see that pic Brian.
I've never seen an ambient temp display unit that hasn't had a soldered in bulb.

Note, before I go further, I've got two spare sets of S2 clocks (+ the set in the S2), one spare set of clocks from a 20v Coupe, one set of spare clocks from a B4 80 TDi, plus the set in the B4 80 TDi..........and each has had slightly different variations. Which is annoying as hell.
The FA is no help either as that's all over the shop too.
Point I'm making is, it'll be best to remove the clocks and see what it's got now.

It's generally stated not to use higher than 1.1watt for the main instrument bulbs, reason being it's often the blame for the dials peeling. I'm not a believer because the bulbs aren't that close and use clear plastic mouldings inside the gauges to refract the light around. BUT you can't be too careful and I don't want to get blamed for peeling dials.

Main instrument lights = 1.1w and you'll need seven in total to replace them all,
Indicator direction arrows = 1.2watt and you'll need two,
Warning lamp bulbs = 2watt OR 1.2watt (see statement above), quantity depends on what warning lamps you have.
My 1995 S2 has six. Highbeam, ABS, handbrake, airbag, immobiliser and battery.

Additionally, there's two 1.1watt bulbs that illuminate the trip computer (easily replaced from the rear),
And two 1.2watt bulbs that illuminate the autocheck, but you'd have to open the autocheck/trip computer to replace those.

As Brian points out, they are small bulbs in a holder. Quarter turn either clockwise or anticlockwise to remove. The bulbs are fixed in the holders. You can faff around and take them out, but it is a REAL PITA. Easier to buy new.
You may find that the 1.1watt orange bulbs have small red rubber condom-y type caps over the bulbs themselves. This is so they shine more red. If that's the case, just remove from the old and switch them over to the new.

1.1watt = orange,
1.2watt = blue,
2watt = pale green.

The yellow arrow points to the two 1.1watt bulbs that light up the trip computer display.
(picture is of a set of clocks from a cq20v, they should be almost identical, the S2 sets are in the loft, bit late to go climbing about now )

[curlyks2]

Anyone tried to use LED bulbs in place of standard filament ones? (e.g. these - linky (NCTS)).

Ck.

[rs2315]

Would love to see that pic Brian.
I've never seen an ambient temp display unit that hasn't had a soldered in bulb.

Note, before I go further, I've got two spare sets of S2 clocks (+ the set in the S2), one spare set of clocks from a 20v Coupe, one set of spare clocks from a B4 80 TDi, plus the set in the B4 80 TDi..........and each has had slightly different variations. Which is annoying as hell.
The FA is no help either as that's all over the shop too.
Point I'm making is, it'll be best to remove the clocks and see what it's got now.

It's generally stated not to use higher than 1.1watt for the main instrument bulbs, reason being it's often the blame for the dials peeling. I'm not a believer because the bulbs aren't that close and use clear plastic mouldings inside the gauges to refract the light around. BUT you can't be too careful and I don't want to get blamed for peeling dials.



Main instrument lights = 1.1w and you'll need seven in total to replace them all,
Indicator direction arrows = 1.2watt and you'll need two,
Warning lamp bulbs = 2watt OR 1.2watt (see statement above), quantity depends on what warning lamps you have.
My 1995 S2 has six. Highbeam, ABS, handbrake, airbag, immobiliser and battery.

Additionally, there's two 1.1watt bulbs that illuminate the trip computer (easily replaced from the rear),
And two 1.2watt bulbs that illuminate the autocheck, but you'd have to open the autocheck/trip computer to replace those.

As Brian points out, they are small bulbs in a holder. Quarter turn either clockwise or anticlockwise to remove. The bulbs are fixed in the holders. You can faff around and take them out, but it is a REAL PITA. Easier to buy new.
You may find that the 1.1watt orange bulbs have small red rubber condom-y type caps over the bulbs themselves. This is so they shine more red. If that's the case, just remove from the old and switch them over to the new.

1.1watt = orange,
1.2watt = blue,
2watt = pale green.

The yellow arrow points to the two 1.1watt bulbs that light up the trip computer display.
(picture is of a set of clocks from a cq20v, they should be almost identical, the S2 sets are in the loft, bit late to go climbing about now )

Jas, cracking bit of info.
Cheers.
rs2315.

[rs2315]

Anyone tried to use LED bulbs in place of standard filament ones? (e.g. these - linky (NCTS).

Ck.

When I was doing a search on the bulbs, someone mentioned that the LED bulbs didn't work well. Can't remember their reasons why. Maybe someone else has more info on this.
I'm going to stick with oe.

rs2315.

[curlyks2]

When I was doing a search on the bulbs, someone mentioned that the LED bulbs didn't work well. Can't remember their reasons why. Maybe someone else has more info on this.

They possibly didn't work well (at all) with the dimming - the little rotary control becoming little more than an on/off control.

Ck.

[Tonks4x4]

I have tried LED's. You needles don't light up properly at night...

[bikerjim]

I have LED's in my dash and i like them. I know some of you will hate this but others may like. Anyway here are some pics.....





Here is how i did it Link

Comments on the back of a postcard please

[johne]

I have tried LED's. You needles don't light up properly at night...

To clarify......LED are much more directional than normal bulbs so most light comes straight out the top. If you use LEDs for the water temp and fuel level illumination you'll actually end up with very well illuminated needles because the LEDs are situated right behind the base of the needles. However, for things like the speedo & rev counter plastic light guides are used to feed the light to the needles and as they're not in the direct path the LED illumination looks different. You have to give it a try & see if you like the effect.

Personally, I'm running with LEDs in the water & fuel gauge illumination and regular bulbs in the rest.

John

[rs2315]

Just an update on my LHD RS2 instrument cluster, and bulb replacement.
I've removed cluster, and this is what I've found.

7 12v 1.1w orange holder, and orange bulb.

2 12v 1.1w orange holder, but both with orange type condom cover over bulb.

3 12v 1.2w blue holder all with clear bulbs.

1 12v 2w green holder with clear bulb.

4 12v 1.2w black holder all with clear bulbs.


All these bulbs I've been able to remove using plyers, and long nosed plyers for the countersunk bulbs. Yes I was gentle with the plyers
As Jas points out, looks like the only bulbs that can't be removed with out removing cover first are for the OK dial between indicator arrows.
As far as I can tell ambient temp bulb is just a twist off and not soldered in
But as Jas say's some are soldered in.
I'll let you know how I get on purchasing new bulbs and prices paid.

rs2315.

[BrianSmith_S2]

Just an update on my LHD RS2 instrument cluster, and bulb replacement.

As far as I can tell ambient temp bulb is just a twist off and not soldered in
But as Jas say's some are soldered in.

rs2315.

Just like mines, that wasnt soldered in either

[Jas11n]

Just like mines, that wasnt soldered in either

Show us a pic Brian, I'd really like to see it
If they were all easily replaced like that it would be so much better.

Has it got a small holder on it or something?