Another failure 2nd one this week

[T2Andy]

Thought i would change the oil and filter today and whilst she was up on the lift
thought id have a look around and found thick grease on the inside of the wheel
and caliper ,looks like the cv boot has given up Having read some write ups on
this im still not to clear on how to do it

[S2central.net]

THere is a proper how-to for this somewhere, but briefly as follows -

1 - Loosen the hub bolt whilst car is on the ground

2 - Jack it up onto stands and loosen the wishbone bolts to subframe - just enough to release tension on bush - ignore this if running poly bushes

3 - Remove the bottom balljoint pinch bolt and pivot the wishbone down and away

4 - Remove the hub bolt and slide the driveshaft out of the hub

5 - Use the hub bolt to screw into the outer CV joint until it 'pops' - then you can pull/tap it off the shaft

6 - Pay attention to position of washers and stuff in there

[T2Andy]

cheers paul , i think i might pay someone to do it

[Fat Audi 80]

Andy, I have done mine myself without ramps, it is not a particuarly pleasant job, but if you take your time it is okay.

The the other thing to mention, is don't disturb the ABS sensor in the hub. I managed to push mine in further and crush it putting the joint back together. It all had to come apart again and a new sensor be fitted...

(Should only be an hour or two labour at a garage....)

Cheers,

Steve

[Rusty]

I've done both fronts and it's not too difficult if you're used to working on a car... Paul speaks the truth with his method Take your time and apply common sense when tightening everything up so you don't do what Fatty mentions. I've had a few things go wrong in the same way but got away with them. To do the job properly I'd suggest getting new bearings pressed in to the hubs so you just do the job once and make sure you get all the torques right, replace nylocks, stretch bolts etc. Bearing kit contains most of the nuts and bolts required, I'd go OE VAG to ensure quality, they're about £50 a side, last time I checked.

• Pinch bolt is nylock, 50Nm
• Strut to hubs are nylock and stretch if they come off then make sure you get them to 110Nm + 90, I replace both bolts and nuts, they're cheap enough and critical.
• Calliper carriers are 85Nm, I loctite mine in as I had one fall out after a track day
• Driveshaft bolts are 200Nm + 90 This requires scaffolding or a 3/4" drive breaker bar really, the later type are 17mm allen head, earlier type something like 24mm hex, long reach socket required (I have one if you get stuck).

HTH

[Barber]

I used a 80/90/coupe haynes book when I done mine but I loosened the funny shaped allen key bolts from the arch side instead of underneath the car and I left the hubs joined to the shocker too