ARP headstuds

[Jonnybravo]

This wasn't meant to be a my **** is bigger than yours thread.

I haven't slated Carrillo, you said that they looked like badged up Carrillo stuff without doing your homework, I know who Carrillo are, as do several people I know who specialise in building touring car engines and similar and if Arrow equipment is good enough for them then I am sure the rest of us can manage.

[QuattroFever]

Do they have any more sets?

No, sorry mate just a one off. Bought something of ebay and the guy had a set kicking about.

[QuattroFever]

Change the washers, dude. Or You'll have issues.

Why change the washers? Ive heard to change them for larger diameter sport quattro ones but didnt think it was essential. Are the standard ones no good?

[Jamo]

This is common knowledge the standard washer crush the head, the larger SQ ones allow larger displacement of pressure.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=199546&postcount=11

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3807

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16653

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33271

[Jonnybravo]

Quite similar to the Vauxhalls then when using them.

[martinjs]

Just cut the heads off your original bolts so you can use the washers from them, more than adequate.

[QuattroFever]

SQ it is then

anyone got any SQ washers they want to part with for a fee....

P/N 035 103 377 - Apparently

[Tommy200rs]

To summarize from Jamo, Corey, Aelred & martinjs and some short additional notes

- Use either original 3B/ABY/ADU washers or
- use SPQ washers, but check the washer clearance to the timing chain and reduce the washer diameter as needed or use one 3B washer there or equiwalent
- why does US ARP continue making the crappy washers years and years further....
- use the ARP boly torgue specs & Audi tightening sequence
- Warm the engine to normal operating temperature so that fans start and stop ***) check below link !
- let the engine cool down over night before making the retorquing !
- open each nut about 1/4 turn according to the sequence order
- retorque each of them again to final ft / NM lbs according to sequence order,
(- do not undo the nuts completely, it is just to retighten )
- The figures are only applicable if you use the ARP moly slip thing.

Or some other ARP story:

http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/view...c8c55e34217876

" I'm also using the standard non undercut studs. Here's how I do the install

1. Tighten hand tight with your wrench in the factory torque pattern.
2. Use a torque wrench an go to 40 ft lbs in the factory sequence pattern
3. Now go to 75 ft lbs in the factory pattern.
4. Loosen nut #1 1/4 turn, then re-torque it back to 75 ft lbs. Move to nut #2 and continue down the line in the factory torque pattern. You'll find that the nuts will tighten down a little more than they were before.
5. repeat step 4, you should now feel the nuts really clamping down, and should not take any additional turn of the wrench.

Do this and I have found that it's not even neccessary to heat cycle the motor and re-torque. I found this writeup somewhere on ARP's site, but cannot for the life of me find it again. I don't think most people do this, and I actually had problems until I followed this. It makes sense because when you apply the massive torque to the stock head bolts, they stretch and compensate for flex in the head while torqueing. "

Or Racewaren studs & nuts for T5 20v :
**********************************************
- has good washers in the package included

http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/photo.htm

T5 20V Turbo:
Raceware RTE-1034 fastening torque specification

- clean allways the treads in block with mechanical thread cleaner and with clean air
- install the studs to block with teflon based liquid pipe sealant on the coarse threads of the stud
- do not use loctite kind of liquid thread locker !
- hand tighten (!) the studs to block until they bottom before tightening the bolt nuts
- with tool RTE-9010 (or equivalent) you can easily install the studs when head is allready installed
- ****) the idea is to have the stretch forces distributed evenly to all places where there are threads (either in the block part or the nut area)
- use reqular engine oil 20w-50 or straight 30-50 (NO oil additives, no synt or teflon based ARP kind of lubes) in lubricating the threads, washer and nut
- IMPORTANT: bolt washer to be installed with inside bevel towards facing the nut
- stretch raceware nuts in three increments according to Audi sequence order. source: retail package 2006

- step 1 25 ft / lbs (25 ft.lbs. equals 33.90 Nm.)
- step 2 40 ft / lbs (40 ft.lbs. equals 54.24 Nm.)
- step 3 50 ft / lbs (FINAL TORQUE) (50 ft.lbs. equals 67.80 Nm.) [yes that is not much as being 68NM]

Conversion tables:

http://www.isokinetics.net/basics/conversions.htm

http://www.merkle-korff.com/technical_advice.asp?id=48

- run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and Fans start and stop then shut it off and allow it really to cool back to 20C ( ~let it cool over night) and then open each nut about 1/4 round and re-torque the nuts to 50 ft / lbs


ARP catalog
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

VAG:
104-6001
104-6002
104-6003
104-6004
104-6005
104-6007
204-6006

[Rusty]

65 ftlbs on the S2 using the supplied molyslip.

[LHD_Kid]

HA HA

Seriously is that what you believe ??

I think you will find the Arrow stuff is made in house and also happens to be the best available, Carrillo are in no way better than Arrow in any shape or form, at the best they are equally as good but no more than that.

Look at a dozen sets of steel rods and they look like Arrow or Carrillo or any of the top name brands, you can guarantee that when you buy from Arrow your not being palmed off with cheap Chinese crap.

What you must remember is that Carillo is just the "budget" arm of Pankl, now, if you want expensive stuff, that really is just about the best available, try Pankl...

Chris

[driftin jo]

What you must remember is that Carillo is just the "budget" arm of Pankl, now, if you want expensive stuff, that really is just about the best available, try Pankl...

Chris

Yes they bought them out in 2008, an interesting read.

http://www.pankl.com/fileadmin/user_upload/e-adhoc-carrillo_end_01.pdf

PS. my original statement was if I was going to spend that kind of money I would have carrillo rods.
Not if I was going to remortgage the house to buy rods , then it would be Pankl

[Jamo]

Enough of the rod cr*p, pays your money take your choice. If any of you with road cars below 500 bhp are going to be able to tell the difference once installed then I could pass for the milky bar kid.

[SteveH]

I Don't believe there have been any horror stories of issues with any of the aftermarket rods for the I5?

There's the cheap end with Scat and Chinese rods through to Arrows, Carillo, Paulter, etc. They all do a far better job than the standard Audi rods, and unless you are going for mega power will be up to the job.

Main thing to remember is some are supplied in better matched sets with smaller weight tolerance between rods.

If you are going for a high torque setup uprating is a must.....be warned!

[Jamo]

Metallic Banana!

[SteveH]

Yeah, what's amazing is they are not just bent, but considerably thicker half way down the rod. The force deformed the rods like they were made of putty! That's 2 Bar plus on the RS2 turbo for you.

They make good ornaments for the fireplace and provided a good reason to purchase something from the States