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Anybody know anywhere i can download one, or have one they can scan a few pages for me?
Need to the timing belt info for a 2002 TT 225bhp, BAM engine. Any info on timing mark references, and cyl head torque setting/pattern would be greatly appreciated.
so i am going to guess that you have not pulled the head and replaced all 8 exhaust valves and the minimum 4 center intake valves.... the belt is still tight there in the pic. because what you have had happen has caused all that damage. yes it certainly has.
as far as head bolt torque pattern it goes like this.
removal of head. 1 and 4 being the timing belt end.
1...7...9...5...3
4...6..10..8...2
reinstalling the head is the exact opposite:
10...4...2...6...8
7.....5...1...3...9
those bolts go to 44 ft/lb (60Nm) and then an additional 180 degrees. and the Bentley states 180 degrees IS equal to two separate 90 degree turns, as well. i hate TTY fasteners, BTW.
the other torques that will interest you are the VC nuts, 7 ft/lb (10 Nm)
as for timing it;
1: there is a mark on the outside of the exhaust cam gear that coincides with a mark on the edge of the valve cover, @ 12 o'clock. do not turn by the 16mm bolt on the cam gear, turn with a tool in the cam gear web.
2: there is a mark on the balancer, again @ 12 o'clock, coincides with a mark on the lower timing belt back cover.
3: there should be a mark on the flywheel, but i dont use an OEM FW i set it by the front marks.
the cam timing gear is 65 Nm (48 ft/lb). it is TTY, or one time use. when you pull the cams, then is the time to replace the cam seals, behind the gear.
the bolt holding the cam position sensor is 25 Nm (18 ft/lb).
the crank gear is 12pt 19mm, turn by this if you need to turn anything. also TTY, one time use. but you shouldnt have to remove the crank gear.
yes you will need to replace all the bent valves. you need a tool to compress the valve chain tensioner to pull the cams. the pistons should be fine, just sand down any ridges or sharp edges on the dents they put on the top of the pistons. now is also a good time to ditch the hydraulic timing belt tensioner if you feel so inclined. also, change the water pump for a metal impeller version. it sounds like the car didnt make the scheduled maintenance interval. there is an exact way that you will need to time the cams together internally once you have the head ready to reinstall. it is sort of tricky to do, unless you do it multiple times like i have. another tip: when removing the cam caps, take all but 2 and 4 off of each cam, and then alternate between the two and slowly "walk" the cam up off the lifters by loosening each cap a little, switch to other cap and loosen, back to first, etc.
any questions? LOL
here is the definitive post on VWKotex that explains it ALL.
Was sent this so I am sharing it with the community as this seems to be the most confusing topic when doing a 20V Rebuild.Thanks to whoever did it up
Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »
CAUTION
Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the...
Last edited by speeding-g60; 28 March 2011, 00:51.
Fantastic, you are a life saver. I was planning on fitting a new belt to turn it over and see if it felt right, then do a compression test. But from what i have read these engine are as interference as they get, might as well just go ahead and pull the head off it.
The car supposedly had the belt done at 60k miles, has 79k on it now. IMHO there in no way in hell that belt is only 20k miles old, its literally falling apart. Most of the teeth have separated on one side of the belt. Tensioner has also leaked oil and has a bit of free play to it so that needs replaced to. I read about the plastic vs metal water pumps so was going to source one, is there an alternative to the hyd belt tensioner?
Thanks for the help
Mark
91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald Express
If the gas tensioner wasn't changed at the same time it could potentially do that but still a rarity in it's own right, Then again I have seen a brand new belt tear in half within 5,000miles of fitting with no failed timing components other than the belt. When you come to remove it all check the condition of the waterpump that's your tell tale of whether the belt was done as this should be done at the same time.
Valve wise I'm running low on exhaust ones need to check what is happening with the set I just pulled from a head, but got gazzilons of intake ones which you can have at the fraction of the original cost or you could upgrade exh to supertech inconel ones whilst you're at it. Lets you get away with murders on the guide wear on the exhaust which causes so many valve fracture failures as apparently it is a non serviceable part according to VAG Guess the 100 or so guides infront of me don't exist.
you can use just the 16v roller tensioner with an appropriate spacer, but this piece adds the lower roller to make it as factory. here is a little video i made of it going on.
Got the cam cover off to find i don't have the right socket for the heat bolts, have to order one and wait. I can see all the exhaust valve lifters are nowhere near the camshafts so it looks like all eight of them are bent.
Talk to me about this valve chain tensioner tool, what does it look like? Might have to bodge something together for the job.
91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald Express
Got the cam cover off to find i don't have the right socket for the heat bolts, have to order one and wait. I can see all the exhaust valve lifters are nowhere near the camshafts so it looks like all eight of them are bent.
Talk to me about this valve chain tensioner tool, what does it look like? Might have to bodge something together for the job.
Mark, i probably have the correct socket, any idea what the designation is?
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