Audi A4 cabriolet Advice on which engine

[220bhp]

My wife has finally had enough with the running issues with her 80 cabby. So its time for a change to an A4 cabriolet. which is the best engine to go for as far as reliability and economy and overall maintenance. Not looking to spend to much £4000.
Has anyone any advise to offer on buying one of these. What are the good and bad bits
etc.. Any help and advise would be much appreciated

[Avantus]

Depends on what your priorities are, but with that budget I'd say you are staying with the pre-facelift model?

My mother has a Cabriolet 2.4 Multitronic. I quite like it for the lovely V6 sound and smooth character. As opposed to many I find the MT gearbox a joy. It is great when cruising as it really gets the best out of that engine torque-wise and it's just so smooth and chill to drive along in. When you want to drive a bit sportier you just put it in tiptronic mode and it shift like a normal automatic gearbox... best of both worlds. Once drove the manual 2.4 and that is miles worse, also on fuel. Multitronics also are more reliable with these less torquefull petrol engines as with the diesels who break a lot. Ours has had an upgrade to 7 lamels (?) and is fautless. Engines are very solid, only had to replace rocker cover gaskets.

Even better is the 3.0, more power and torque. Insurance and tax wise another case maybe.

1.8T imo loses the big V6 advantage, sound. An I find that a big point in a cabbie. Also more known problems than on the V6.
2.5TDI isn't problemfree either with cams and stuff. And sounds a bit tractor for a diesel.

In the end 2.4 or 3.0 is my choice for the cruising type of car it is.

Only major downside I find on these cars is the seriously misjudged rear damping. When going over a bump the rear is like a boat... should be a lot firmer.

[fourringsrus]

I would echo the above and give my tuppenyworth regards the v6 engines.
The 1.8t is a waste of time in a heavy cabriolet.
I have had the 2.4 v6 petrol for about 5 years with manual 5 speed and front drive, I find it smooth, effortless and reasonable for economy around 35 to the gallon with just general bumbling around.
I had the 3.0 v6 petrol in the B6 A4 quattro with the sport tiptronic autobox, this car flies like the wind but is WAY,WAY juicier on petrol than it has any right to be, which was why I would not have entertained the 3.0 in such a heavy lump as the B6 cabby.
The diesels I have no knowledge of.

Things to look for, well all the usual car/Audi gremlins, and pay attention to all electric functions which can be connected to anything in the doors, ie central locking, windows, alarm etc.
The wiring loom which passes through the A pillar at the door hinge area is a regular pain after years of folding the wires tend to split and cause havoc.
A good example is the window drop function which allows the window to drop an inch or so before you can open the door, an absolute git if the window will not drop beacause you cant open the door without potentially doing damage.
I have repaired my wiring about 4-5 times ( 2002 52 plate 70,000 miles ) and I know it will go again, probably renew next time.
The loom will also have you thinking that you have locked your car as you walk off into town, just to discover the signal didnt get to the actual lock.

So far I have no issues , other than the above in 5 years or so, and funnily enough I just bought a 2.6 80 cabby, 1997 and love it to bits.

Good luck hunting
Stuart

[220bhp]

Many thanks. I also love the 80 cabby, but my wants the a4

[Avantus]

@V6beast67, any info on those wiring problems in the doors? Where exactly do they happen?

Ours just started to do weird alarm things, with going of in the middle of the night. The module under the carpet is dry, and the batteries
in the horn under the right rear wing were leaked out so that has been replaced.

[herald]

I've had many A4 Cabriolets, my favourite was the 3.0 quattro manual, a junior S4, awesome car. That said I found the torque of the 1.8T suited my driving style so much more than the lazy but smooth 2.4 and I wouldn't ever ever have a multitronic as the problems were numerous and always expensive. If you must have a multi, be sure it has the 7 plate clutch upgrade and only have the 2.4 as it has no torque to kill the box with.

Watch out for failed heated rear screens as they are integral to the roof and come as one massive part, and also for radio aerials that don't work as it's always the front to rear cable that costs little to buy but ages to install. Other than that, fabulous solid car.

[fourringsrus]

@V6beast67, any info on those wiring problems in the doors? Where exactly do they happen?

Ours just started to do weird alarm things, with going of in the middle of the night. The module under the carpet is dry, and the batteries
in the horn under the right rear wing were leaked out so that has been replaced.

I would think that your alarm trouble was connected to the batteries which you have changed.
In relation to the wires in the door jam area,
1,window will not drop to open door
2,locking will not lock the drivers door ( uk offside )
3, window will not open close correctly
4,electric mirror will not move
5,small speaker in door card not working
6, main speaker in door card not working

I never had all these faults at the same time but two or three together.
The clip which holds the rubber sleeve/boot can be a bit of a cow to unclip from the door and the car body, but once opened you will see the damaged wire/wires immediately, there are thick stiff wires all mixed up with thin fragile wires.
If you repair the wires with bullet connectors or similar, although you may be successful, you will in fact be introducing more bulk into an already tight space, and therefore you will need to do the repair again before very long.
If you can replace the broken wires without adding connections inside the rubber sleeve or purchase a new loom section that would be the best solution.

Stuart