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Hello every body , i am going to replace camshaft tensioner and chain and camshaft adjuster. any one have done this before? i have all the special tools for it just i want some details for the fitment. any way can help me with this will be appreciated
Sorry, yes, I misunderstood this was about timing belt change.
Yea, there is nothing very special about the chain change either. It will spill a little oil when You remove the cover.
Just turn the engine to tdc. Mark teeth, that face each other on chain sprockets, using oil based paint is easiest. Lock the tensioner with a locking pin, remove the adjuster from the exhaust cam and pull it out. Install new stuff in reverse order. When done, rotate the engine a couple of times to make sure the marks You made, align on tdc. Done.
Everything less than 2 bar is considered to be naturally aspirated
Sorry, yes, I misunderstood this was about timing belt change.
Yea, there is nothing very special about the chain change either. It will spill a little oil when You remove the cover.
Just turn the engine to tdc. Mark teeth, that face each other on chain sprockets, using oil based paint is easiest. Lock the tensioner with a locking pin, remove the adjuster from the exhaust cam and pull it out. Install new stuff in reverse order. When done, rotate the engine a couple of times to make sure the marks You made, align on tdc. Done.
Good evening , sorry for the time lag between us ,
well i have all the special tools for the procedure , but what i don't understand is why when i want to fit the chain , they say first i put the cam chain over the cam adjuster and align the pin to the notch in the camshaft then i put the chain from the upper side of over the intake cam chain sprocket and then they say i have to turn the cam slowly untill the camadjuster be able to fit on the camshaft , and how can i spin the cam if its locked with the special tool , look at this link please maybe if u done it in fact you will know it better than me.
I have had racing cams on, so the locking tools won't work, so i don't know about those.
But using common sense, if You have locking tool in place during the whole procedure, there should be no need of rotating the cams. The adjuster should just slide on.
What that refers to(I think), is there might be need to slightly adjust the clocking of the adjuster, so it slides on the positioning pin at the end of the exhaust camshaft.
Everything less than 2 bar is considered to be naturally aspirated
I have had racing cams on, so the locking tools won't work, so i don't know about those.
But using common sense, if You have locking tool in place during the whole procedure, there should be no need of rotating the cams. The adjuster should just slide on.
What that refers to(I think), is there might be need to slightly adjust the clocking of the adjuster, so it slides on the positioning pin at the end of the exhaust camshaft.
aha , so its not complicatedas much as it appears in the manual? , which car do u have with this engine? and is it reliable one? better then the old 1.8t 20v ?
HPFP tappet check every 20k , replace every 40k if using modified fuel pump
i have nice collection for it brand new camshaft J update , and follower and cams chain and hydro adjuster , i didnt find the link in mk5golfgti , do u have a link for it?
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, and how can i spin the cam if its locked with the special tool , look at this link please maybe if u done it in fact you will know it better than me. 
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