wheel nuts / bolts

[Cymru1]

Fun Day!

How hard is it to remove a wheel? (x4)

A) Socket extention snapped in two.
B) 110v Impact wrench - no effect.
C) 1m scaffold tube extender - nothing
D) Drive to local tyre fitter - both fronts done, :-). Rears - fail!
E) A big bloody bar and 15stone. SUCCESS!!

A puncture anytime would have left me totally stranded, a case of over tightening perhaps by tyre fitter or corrosion? (They have been off about six months ago).



Bought some copper grease today!
Fitting new discs and pads tomorrow instead.

[vonbeck]

probably tightened with a air line with impact gun at tyre fitters ! put some copper slip on the threads that always helps

[90quattrocoupe]

probably tightened with a air line with impact gun at tyre fitters ! put some copper slip on the threads that always helps

This^^^. I always ask tire fitters to torque my bolts, then I go home and redo myself. I always use anti-seize on my bolts.

Greg W.

[macspring]

As mentioned copper grease is essential for the re-assembly of cars.

Glad there's more talk about it on here.

Also a good ghetto way to slow rust down on suspension parts and stuff before they're blasted and powder coated / POR 15.

[vonbeck]

The problem is tyre fitter tend to do them up with air gun then get the torque wrench out which is a waste of time as the impact gun will do them way too tight the wrench will still click!! they really need doing up by hand then finishing off with wrench

sent by the force

[Tonybolony]

I have the same problem, even though I always slacken and re-torque the studs myself whenever the wheels come off for new rubber.
Although I believe that copperslip has no place anywhere near wheel studs (a certain amount of friction is needed to make sure they don't undo on their own!), I've been forced to use it myself, but being careful to only use a very small amount, and to keep it away from the stud cones.
I've got one of the telescopic wheelbraces in the boot, but the problem with them is that they are bent to maybe 60deg, which is fine for a normal stud, but not a Locking Stud, which are just Too easy to Round! The alternative is to keep a powerbar or torquewrench on the boot, which being able to work at 90deg from the wheel, are less likely to destroy a locking wheelstud.