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where do i start the whole bloody car has moved from its original settings the maf is normal before the turbo. could i use 3b regulator untill i run the car in or is that a no no ?what does it flow ? its got a 3 inch exhaust so its breathing better also a catch tank but surely them kind of things are not going to contribute towards it running rich . what else i'm i missing out on that i should check?
Mmm..
The 3b one is 3bar. You want 4bar. Don't people use the 7A one as an upgrade.
Anyway, don't panic. You will just have to be patient! Once you know your regulator is set at 4 bar you are sorted(for the time being!). At least you will be eliminating that from your enquiries!
My theory is that you are looking for something that isn't std. The FPR is an obvious candidate. More pressure=more fuel per inj cycle. Although its not linear. Double the pressure does not mean double the flow.
its also got a missfire now which wasn't there with rs2 injectors.not on boost either because the car isn't driven yet.just on idle it misses and goes like its going to cut out . could it be an air leak somewhere ? could that cause simmilar problems?
Ok!
Just checking! Easy to overlook simple things when excited about getting it running.
Again, my theory is that with stock settings the car should idle cleanly. Double check all the hoses after the maf. Then beg/steal/borrow fuel pressure gauge!
i've got the gauge and the sender was waiting for a friend this weekend to wire it up for me if he turns up all sholud be sorted . myself not very good with wiring .
.and audi cq i wouldn't take a chance on running it in for only 10 miles too much to risk especially coming upto winter i dont fancy taking out and building the engine again for next 6 months sooooo cold. me and cold dont get on .
The trouble is, if you have made changes to the engine, it must be appropriately mapped to prevent damage. You don't want to thrash your new engine to run it in, if it's running excessively rich or lean, BTDT.
If you want a wideband lambda on it - we can put one on and go for a run to see how your car is running so you can get the misture setup safe for bedding the car in - our workshop is not that far from you.
hi all i built the engine on my 10 valve quattro and ran it in for 1000 miles and it was beautifull when i sold the engine the chap was ever so pleased with it he used it for racing .your theory is probably right but i like to do things the tried and tested way .its possible i may have an air leak or something . with rs2 injectors it was running fine with no missfire but it was smoking black smoke . but with s2 injectors its missing .when i cure the air lock in my water system and sort the rest of wiring and its drivable i might bring it up to you doug and see what you can do to it .
it starts fine for first 15 to 20 seconds then it starts missing does it sound like an air leak ?quattro nutter i think your old shorty is in bolton sides now did you sell it to someone down south and did it have most of the engine bits polished ?
if its got an air leak it will run very lumpy,might be one of your coil packs?or a fault in the wiring somewhere?also worth checking your injector wiring to see if you have power getting to each injector,easy to check with a test light,my old shorty had pretty much all the engine bits chromed,including inlet manifold and all the pipework....
thats the one was it 3b engine ? if it was then thats the one i saw today . ok if i let it idle it will try to cut out after a while. if i keep touching the accelerator it will run a bit better but not 100%. if i rev it it seems like its not running on all cylinders .has it got anything to do with cold side of things ?
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