s6 steering wheel????????to fit to s2 help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**Jas11n** · 2 April 2007, 19:46

So the link I gave in your other thread doesn't give you answers to all you are asking???
Maybe if I copy and paste the whole lot across will help??

**v8 coupe** · 2 April 2007, 19:46

I to would like to know the answer to this. I am looking at replacing the steering wheel on my air bag equipped US spec 91 Coupe. I was looking at getting a 92-94 URS4 wheel.

**Jas11n** · 2 April 2007, 20:12

From the link I gave in your other thread of the same subject.

Now that the Ashes are back where they belong, and the rest of the test series is effectively a dead rubber, what's a self-respecting chap to do? I know, we're going to change form this...

to this

Cool, eh? Those of keen eye will notice the distinct lack of control switches on the lower photo - I've still got some bits in transit, but I'm 99% sure I can do this swap. The 3-spoke wheel is from a 1996/7 A6, and so far, so good. In theory this is a direct swap as this new wheel was an option on the 1996 A80Q which isn't much different from my 1994 A80Q.

When I get everything bolted/lashed/sticky-taped together, I'll post all the part numbers required to do this swap.

In case anyone is wondering, the 4-spoke wheel's the plain vanilla vinyl variety, and it's starting to move on its frame. Audi want an eye-watering amount of money to replace it, and the leather one's price is in the stratosphere! It's pretty amazing that a car that cost north of AUD70k in 1994 didn't come with a leather wheel, but there you go.

Wish me luck!
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Well, this is turning out to be a bit more of a drama that I expected. Part of this might be due to some differences in the steering column between LHD and RHD models. Anyway, here's what I've found so far.

1. Both switches need to be replaced with c.1997 versions from an A4, A6, A8 or late model (1996 - 1997) ACA or A80. These have a larger diameter bore that's required to allow the larger diameter indicator canceller tab on the slip-ring to work.

2. The above switches won't clamp down on the old steering column, due to their larger diameter. One can either change the steering column Evil or Very Mad or use an adapter that Audi seem to have for just this purpose. I'm yet to order the adapter but will do so in the next few days. Hopefully it's the right part!

3. In order to use the new switches, the plug has to be changed on the dash harness for the light switch. For both the light switch and the wipers, the pins have to be removed and re-positioned in the plug housing as some of the terminal locations on the switches changed. I need to sit down with a multimeter and work out what pin does what, and then reposition the pins. I'll post the details when I work it out.

4. The plug housing for the horn connector on the slip-ring needs to be replaced.

5. Both trim pieces need to be replaced - no big deal.

The above list is for my 1994 RHD A80Q sedan. Other cars are likely to be similar, but different!

So, this certainly isn't as straight forward as I had hoped and I'd almost decided to give up. But, if the steering column adapter works, the rest should be pretty easy. I'll post all part numbers and details whenever I get this all together.

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Well, some slight progress was made today. I made up a sleeve that takes the steering column housing from 37.4mm to 42mm, allowing me to mount the later model control switches. The switches fitted perfectly, and I fitted the 3-spoke wheel and went for a drive down the lane to check that the indicator cancel worked properly - all is well!

The last remaining tasks are to rewire the connectors for everything bar the cruise control. The switch pins are completely different on the headlight/indicator assembly, and a couple of the pins are also a larger diameter. I have a new connector shell coming from Audi for this switch, so I just need to sit down with a multimeter and work out what terminal does what, then transpose the pins in the new shell. The shell for the wash/wipe is the same as the original, but some of the pins need transposing.

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Success! Took the car for it's first drive today, and everything seems fine. I've done the pin-swapping I needed to do for the new switches on both the headlight/indicator and wiper switches, and much to my amazement, everything works and no blown fuses! The indicators work and cancel fine, and all the functions work on the new switches. I'm still waiting on a connector shell for the headlight switch (currently a bit of a bodge, but it works), and will connect the airbag as soon as I get some new connector pins.

I'm yet to order the trim (this week, hopefully) and as soon as I'm certain that everything hangs together. I'll summarise the parts I used and the wiring modifications I needed to do.

Yay!

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Hi Dyl. Yep, the airbag works just fine. Well, let me say that it passes the self-test that the controller does at each engine start. Fortunately, I've not had the need to actually test the deployment, if you know what I mean. The workshop manual actually talks about the airbag procedures for retrofitting this type of wheel (basically, power it off via the airbag power connector under the dash panel, replace the wheel, and re-plug the connector), so this conversion is pretty kosher.

I'm still waiting on the wiring harness shell I need for the replacement headlight/turn switch, and the trim is on its way form the UK, so when I get it all together I'll list out the individual parts I used.

Having said that, I've been driving the car for about 3 weeks with the new wheel, and it's *great*! For safety's sake, I would never consider going to a non-airbag wheel. Airbags are a lifesaver, and I wish my car had a passenger's side one too.

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I'm pleased to officially declare this project a success and close the books on it! Everything is fully functional, and the great news is that no hacks or work-arounds are required. All the parts are genuine Audi, and below is the list of goodies you'll need.

As a caveat, this is the stuff you'll need to put a 3-Spoke Sports wheel - 4A0 419 091 AB - with slip-ring 4D0 951 543D on to a 1994 (or earlier) right-hand-drive A80Q with airbag and without a trip computer. My car also has cruise control, so if your car is a non-CC model, you'll need to ask your friendly parts supplier for a different headlight/indicator switch (the base part number is the same, just the suffix changes). If your car is LHD, you'll need different trim pieces for the column shroud, and your favourite parts supplier will help you there, too.

The steering wheel itself came form e-bay, and there are a couple listed right now. Be sure to check the part numbers and get a pic of the rear of the wheel showing the slip-ring. It's quite different to the original setup, and looks like a round-cornered square measuring approx 100mm x 100mm. The wheels seem to vary in price from EUR400 to EUR800, which is vastly cheaper than even replacing the stock wheel & airbag.

So, on with the list...

In addition to the wheel and slip-ring (which theoretically are a single unit, although I have seen people flogging the wheel without the slip-ring), you'll need the following.

1. 1 x 8A2 953 515A 01C - upper trim
2. 1 x 8A2 953 516 B 01C - lower trim
3. 1 x 4D0 953 513 C - headlight/turn switch with cruise control
4. 1 x 8D9 953 503 - wash/wipe switch
5. 1 x 8A0 419 787 B - Adapter sleeve
6. 1 x 4D0 971 978 - headlight/turn connector housing for 4D0 953 513 C
7. 2 x N 043 951 3 - BZ2.9 x 25 Oval-head panel screws (for the new trim)
8. 1 x 4mm wiring pin to suit item 3.

Before you remove anything, DISABLE THE AIRBAG! You don't want one of these puppies going off in your face. Remove the battery leads, and unplug the airbag power connector (under the dash in my car - clearly visible).

Once you've done that, make sure the wheels are pointing straight ahead, and go ahead and remove your airbag, steering wheel, trim, and switches.

The adapter sleeve (item 5) is shown below and is used to allow the late A80/early A4/A6/A8 control switches to clamp down on to the steering column. These switches have a larger bore, and are required to allow the slip-ring on the 3-spoke wheel to fit properly. It's a part that was used on the 1995+ 80-series and ACA for exactly this purpose.

To use the new switches (which you can get from the wreckers), you need to swap the positions of some of the pins in the wiring connector housing for both switches. In addition, you need a new housing (item 6, shown below) for the headlight/turn switch. You will also need to remove the 2.5mm pin from the yellow wire (headlight low beam) and replace it with a 4mm pin. I happened to have a spare harness to cannibalise, but your audi parts person or the wreckers can get you one.

To rewire the connector housings, unplug your old switches note down the pin numbers that are written alongside each pin on the switches bodies (X, 10, 56b, int, 30, etc). Then look at the connector housings (make sure you're looking at them the right way up!) and note the colour of the wire that goes to each numbered pin. Look at the new switches and write down the location of the pins and their numbers. Transpose the wire colours from your old list to the new one. For example, if the Red wire goes to terminal 10 on the old switch, it needs to go to terminal 10 on the new switch. Now dismantle the connector housings, swap the pins (for the wash wipe) and use the new housing for the headlamp/turn. Double-check your work and close the housings. That's the hardest part done!

You may also need to change the horn connector on the new slip-ring. I used the one form the original parts I'd just removed.

Place the adapter sleeve on the steering column so that the machined recess is at the top and the slot is to the side. Screw the lnew ower trim on to the new switches and slide the lot over the steering column until the trim just touches the dash pad, and then clamp in place, and plug in. You might want to pause at this point and connect the battery and test your rewiring. If everyting works, put your new wheel on the steering column and tighten it up. Connect the airbag to the wheel and secure it in place. Connect the airbag to the dash harness, and connect the horn. Slide in the upper trim and secure it with the special screws listed above (item 7).

Reconnect the airbag power lead, and reconnect the battery. Start 'er up and see what happens! You might get an airbag fault. If you do, you'll need to find someone with a VAGCOM rig, or similar, to reset the warning for you.

That's it! If you're in the UK, expect to pay about GBP60 for the trim, adapter, wiring housing, screws, etc. I got my switches form a wreckers for the equivalent of GBP25.

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s6 steering wheel????????to fit to s2 help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

s6 steering wheel????????to fit to s2 help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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