I am running into the exact same problems you are on the turn signal issue...

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  • Snaple07
    S2Forum Tinkerer
    • Nov 2022
    • 2
    • Country: United States

    #1

    I am running into the exact same problems you are on the turn signal issue...

    This is what I did:

    • Changed all turn signal bulbs (new syl 7528) - This was the weird part, Turn on night time lights/headlights on, pass side front turn signal not on and rear tail/signal light not on, when I switch on the turn signal for right turn it blinks fast. I swap in new bulbs, same issue with the lights turned on (pass corner lights not working) but now my left turn signal blinks fast and the pass side blinks normal.....

    • Cleaned all the contacts and lifted them up, cleaned pig tail connectors then applied a small amount of dielectric grease

    • Checked fuse panel on the driver side dash and they were good, so I swapped over some new fuses anyways

    • Replaced the 302 module/relay in the "lunch box" relay panel with another good 302 module, even swapped in a urS6 374 module I had laying around. still the same issue

    • Next step was to swap out the relay behind the gauge cluster (my hazard switch works perfectly)

    • A few years back I went thru my gauge wiring/breadboard to make sure solder joints didn't crack (fixed a oil temp gauge solder failure, swapped bulbs and added reflector tape)

    • While brain storming this issue I remembered a while back when driving at night. I would turn the light switch to bright it would sometimes fail (push forward for brights nothing would happen and still had low beams working) or not work at all (low beams work, switch to brights and then all headlights would be off while driving...sketchy). This leads me to what you have ended up fixing. I am thinking my light switch on the column has dirty contacts or is on its way out.

    • Is there a "sticky" on how to clean the contacts or how to remove the switch?
  • JayCab
    S2Forum Enthusiast
    • Mar 2025
    • 191
    • Country: United Kingdom

    #2
    To what, precisely, did you apply dielectric grease?

    Comment

    • 4WDrifter
      S2Forum Extremist
      • Nov 2012
      • 1250
      • Country: Northern Ireland

      #3
      ??hassard light switch???
      1996 S2 ABY Coupe silver
      2003 S3 8L dolphin grey
      2014 RS4 B8 prism silver

      Comment

      • vag_noob
        S2Forum Fanatic
        • Nov 2010
        • 72
        • Country: New Zealand

        #4
        Originally posted by Snaple07
        This is what I did:

        • Changed all turn signal bulbs (new syl 7528) - This was the weird part, Turn on night time lights/headlights on, pass side front turn signal not on and rear tail/signal light not on, when I switch on the turn signal for right turn it blinks fast. I swap in new bulbs, same issue with the lights turned on (pass corner lights not working) but now my left turn signal blinks fast and the pass side blinks normal.....

        • Cleaned all the contacts and lifted them up, cleaned pig tail connectors then applied a small amount of dielectric grease

        • Checked fuse panel on the driver side dash and they were good, so I swapped over some new fuses anyways

        • Replaced the 302 module/relay in the "lunch box" relay panel with another good 302 module, even swapped in a urS6 374 module I had laying around. still the same issue

        • Next step was to swap out the relay behind the gauge cluster (my hazard switch works perfectly)

        • A few years back I went thru my gauge wiring/breadboard to make sure solder joints didn't crack (fixed a oil temp gauge solder failure, swapped bulbs and added reflector tape)

        • While brain storming this issue I remembered a while back when driving at night. I would turn the light switch to bright it would sometimes fail (push forward for brights nothing would happen and still had low beams working) or not work at all (low beams work, switch to brights and then all headlights would be off while driving...sketchy). This leads me to what you have ended up fixing. I am thinking my light switch on the column has dirty contacts or is on its way out.

        • Is there a "sticky" on how to clean the contacts or how to remove the switch?
        You could try relay the high beams, info on QW forum. Not sure about the indicators.

        Comment

        • JayCab
          S2Forum Enthusiast
          • Mar 2025
          • 191
          • Country: United Kingdom

          #5
          Changed all bulbs = Not a bulb issue
          Flashing fast = resistance at flasher too high (typical of a blown bulb on the circuit)
          …If flasher (inside hazard switch) is okay,
          …and bulbs are okay
          …and this is known/proven?

          … what remains is too much resistance in the path from flasher to bulbs (i.e the wiring!)

          Common points would be grounds, and corrosion on the tracks on the bulb holders themselves.

          Check: all contact points. Fuses, spade connectors to bulb holders, grounds. Don’t forget the side repeaters!

          Don’t forget the bulb contacts themselves! Are they springy enough? Are they corroded? Are they applying tension to the bulb contacts? Are the bayonet arms themselves okay on the inside surface? Are they corroded?

          Friends in this job: Sandpaper, metal polish, WD-40, multimeter. Patience!

          Enemies in this job: Dielectric grease! Put it down. Keep it away from the vehicle.

          …without knowing the car…I’d start will all bulb holders and spade connectors to bulb holders on all six lights…
          Last edited by JayCab; 29 September 2026, 21:01.

          Comment

          • JayCab
            S2Forum Enthusiast
            • Mar 2025
            • 191
            • Country: United Kingdom

            #6
            I don’t know where this mad myth of dielectric grease being some universally helpful electrical lubricant started…

            …but it’s a liquid insulator…which means you keep it off anything you want to conduct electricity…i.e all wiring!

            Put simply..it’s a product that does more harm than good in every automotive application except the inside of spark plug boots (and NOT connectors). It’s mostly unnecessary in this regard anyway…

            Comment

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